Antelope
Canyon Navaho Tribal Park,
Arizona:
Left: a
ray of sunlight
pierces Upper Antelope Canyon.
(I stitched this panorama from 3 images.)
Antelope
Canyon Photo Tips:
Where to go:
- Page, Arizona: Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons
are very easy to visit, great for both children and adults. Expect
crowds. Drive there with your private car (or pay more for a tour
booked from Page). Different Navajo families operate Upper and Lower
Canyons, which explains the separate admission fees:
- The Upper Canyon is an easy flat walk in sand.
To
get there, drive east of Page, Arizona on Highway 98 for several miles,
to just before milepost 299. You will see an entrance booth for Upper
Antelope Canyon on the right (south). Pay at the toll booth, park your
car, and wait for the next 4WD shuttle & guide to take you to the
slot entrance. In 2005, Navaho lands entry fee was $6 (good for one day
only), plus $15 for the guided tour & ride to Upper Canyon.
- Lower Antelope Canyon: Across the highway, to
the
north of Upper Canyon’s toll booth, you will see a sign marking the
short road to Lower Antelope Canyon parking lot (Antelope Point Road,
Navaho Route N22B). Pay at the office and walk along the marked trail,
which descends into Lower Antelope Canyon on easy ladders and slanted
sandstone. The Lower Canyon has less dust, fewer tourists, the best
formations, and requires no guide, which allows you much more freedom
& time to photograph. Walking straight through without stopping
would take only half an hour, but the amazing cathedrals in stone
should slow you down, awestruck. In 2005, Navaho lands entry fee was $6
(paid only once if seeing both canyons on the same day), plus Lower
Canyon tour fee was $13.
- Antelope
Canyon Navaho Tribal Park is run by the Navaho Nation.
When to go:
- Antelope
Canyon is
open April-October. Closed November-March. The canyons are subject to
weather closures, especially in hot July-August which is dangerous
flash flood season. In May-July (closer to summer solstice), the sun
shines most directly into the slot canyons, for exciting light shafts.
- Midweek is better than weekends, to avoid crowds.
- Wait for a sunny day with the sun high overhead, best midday,
during normal Canyon opening hours 9-5:00. Light quality will be very
dull on a cloudy day, not as good for photography. I shot my images
on April 12-13, 2006. I recommend 10am to 3pm, in April or October.
- I recommend all day in each canyon (two days total) for serious
photography. If you are sightseeing without a camera, you only need an
hour or two in each canyon.
- Your guide, required in the Upper Canyon, may let you linger for
photography (which may cost a little more for extra hours). Large
groups come through continuously in Upper Canyon. You must take shots
quickly. Try to determine your shot settings at each spot before
placing the tripod in the narrow path.
- You have more freedom to photograph in the Lower Canyon, where no
guide is required.

Right: Tom admires a water-carved hole in
Lower
Antelope Canyon (self portrait using tripod).
Photographic techniques for slot canyons:
- The best lighting in slot canyons is brightly bounced
indirect sunlight on the sandstone, and also shafts of
sunlight piercing the dusty air.
- Avoid including directly sunlit rocks in the
image (which will either lose detail in the sunlit portion or overly
darken the rest of the image). An exception to this is capturing a
column of sunlight in the
dusty air. To get the best shots of shafts of sunlight, shoot when the
sun is highest in the sky, such as around noon (though best times vary
in each spot by time of day and season). Throw sand up into the light
column and quickly shoot the falling sunlit dust & sand. But if
others
are present, get their permission before tossing sand. Crowds may also
stir up enough dust to brighten the rays of sunlight.
- On a digital camera, check your
LCD frequently to confirm image quality. Fill your bell-shaped
histogram with good shadow detail, without cutting off highlights.
- If you use film, expose for the brightest rock or subject (but
avoid
including directly sunlit rocks in the image, unless your subject
itself is sunlit).
- Upper Canyon is darker: I shot exposures of about 0.5 to 2
seconds at ISO 50 at f/8 on my Canon Powershot Pro1.
- Lower Canyon is shallower, a little brighter, and has the most
interesting rock formations: I shot exposures of about 0.2 to 1 second
at ISO 50 at f/8 on my Canon Powershot Pro1.
- Have fun! This is a fantastic place, despite the crowds of
people.
Smile and be friendly to everyone, and patiently let people pass in
the narrow slots. Many other great slot canyons
are available in Utah
and Arizona with few other people.
Photo equipment to bring:
- Bring a tripod, flashlight, jacket, snacks, & water. The
crowds
of people in the Upper Canyon will make use of a tripod more
challenging than in the longer and lesser traveled Lower Canyon.
- I recommend a digital camera over a film camera since you can
immediately determine the exposure and appearance of images. I
don’t recommend changing lenses in these dusty canyons (keep your
digital sensor clean with a hand-squeezed blower).
- I recommend a wide angle lens such as 17-35mm on a DSLR (or ~27
to 52mm on
35mm-film cameras). But a 24mm lens (in terms of 35mm-film)
will be even more useful in these tight slot canyons.
- You can effectively widen your lens angle by stitching together
multiple
shots using software (such as my light shaft image above left).
- For stitching, take each shot overlapped by a third, with
exactly
the same focus, exposure and white balance (such as using Manual mode),
using the DSLR at about 24mm (or 36mm in terms of 35mm-film cameras).
Use
DSLR 17mm if you have to, but stitching may not line up as well on the
edges.
- Least distortion for stitching is usually within the range of
35 to 50mm (in terms of 35mm-film cameras).
- On a typical DSLR (with an APS-C-sized sensor with ~1.5x
field of view crop factor), 24mm is equivalent to a 36mm lens on a
35mm-film camera.
(But if you have invested in a full-framed sensor, the lenses are the
same size as for film). A DSLR 24mm lens (or longer) usually stitches
into a panorama better than 17mm.
- Canon supplies a good panorama stitch program in their
Zoombrowser program provided free with many of their digital cameras.
- Adobe Photoshop CS3 greatly improves the Photomerge feature
(found under the File>Automate> menu) versus previous Photoshop
versions such as CS2 or 7.x.
Below Left:
A ray of sunlight shines through a water-carved hole in Lower Antelope
Canyon.
Below
right: This is the other side of the same water-carved hole in in Lower Antelope
Canyon, a few hours later. (Similar image available without a person in
the image.)

Below Left: Dust and sunlight fall through a water-carved hole in Lower
Antelope Canyon.

Below right: Rays of sunlight pierce the depths of Upper Antelope Canyon

Below
left:
photographer in Lower Antelope Canyon.

Below right: Jagged teeth in Lower Antelope
Canyon.


Left: Swirling pattern in Lower
Antelope Canyon.
Below right: Sage brush in Lower Antelope Canyon.

Below:
Sculpted sandstone in Upper Antelope Canyon:


Left: Colorful light bounces onto four walls of Lower Antelope Canyon,
by Carol Dempsey.
Below right: light gets
darker and bluer as it bounces into the depths of Antelope Canyon, by Carol Dempsey.


Left: Colorful slot which darkens with
depth in Lower Antelope Canyon.
Below right: Eroded teeth recede into the distance in Lower Antelope Canyon.

Paria
Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area (on Utah/Arizona border):
The
Paria
Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area contains some amazing sandstone
scenery, spanning across both southern Utah and northern Arizona.
The Wave
Over 190 million years, ancient sand dune layers calcified into rock
and created "The Wave" in the northwest corner of Arizona near the Utah
border. Iron oxides bled through this Jurassic-age Navajo sandstone to
create the salmon color. Hematite and goethite added yellows, oranges, browns and purples. Over thousands of years, water cut through the ridge above and exposed a channel that was further scoured by windblown sand into the smooth curves that today look like ocean swells and waves. For the permit required to hike to "The Wave", contact the US Bureau of Land Management (BLM), who limits access to protect this fragile geologic formation.

Left: Entrance to The Wave, Coyote Buttes, Arizona.

Fossilized sand dunes in a side canyon of The Wave, Coyote Buttes,
Arizona.
Above: The Wave, Coyote Buttes, located on the Arizona side of Paria
Canyon-Vermilion
Cliffs Wilderness Area, which is public land managed by the United
States
BLM.

Left: The Wave, Coyote Buttes, located on the Arizona side of Paria
Canyon-Vermilion
Cliffs Wilderness Area, which is public land managed by the United
States
BLM.

Carol stands in The Wave, Coyote Buttes, Arizona.
Above right: Coyote Buttes, Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area,
Arizona.

Above: Wrather Arch, a short hike from the Paria Canyon backpacking
trip,
on the Arizona side of Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area.

Left: Sunlight warms the cool watery slot, deep within Bucksin Gulch, accessible from Wire Pass trailhead in Paria
Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area.
Left: We carry backpacks through the cathedral-like Paria Canyon, which crosses
from Utah into Arizona a little south of the confluence with Buckskin
Gulch. The Paria Canyon-Vermilion
Cliffs Wilderness Area spans across both Utah & Arizona.
Below right: Sandstone layers. Vermilion Cliffs, Arizona.

Below right: Royal arch.
Paria
River Canyon, Utah.


Left: Wild Claret Cup Cactus, Utah.
Below right: Cracks in mud. Paria
River, Utah.
Copyright 1990-2006 by Tom
Dempsey. Photographs may not be copied without permission. Custom
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