
New
Zealand: 1 ~ 2 ~ 3
Page 1:
Overview & southern South Island
Index:
Below are three pages of my
favorite images from my
four trips to New Zealand:
- Page
1 (this page) : New
Zealand overview : trip planning
, history , economy , geology / South
Island tips , map / southern
South
Island : Fiordland , Milford Track , Routeburn ,
Mount Aspiring , Moeraki Boulders , The
Catlins
- Page 2 : northern South Island
: Mount Cook
/ West Coast : Franz
Josef & Fox
Glaciers , Lake Matheson , Paparoa NP Pancake
Rocks / Abel Tasman
, Marlborough Sounds : Nydia Track
, Queen
Charlotte Track
- Page 3
: North Island
: Travel Tips
, map
/ Rotorua
: Maori culture , geothermal areas
/ Tongariro / Mount Egmont ,
Taranaki / Lake
Waikaremoana , Te Urewera / Wellington
, Putangiura Pinnacles
- For more, see my 2007 trip
galleries: South
Island-A (108
images) , South
Island-B
(59
images)
, North Island-C
(81 images) [require Adobe Flash]
& 2007
itinerary
(18 pages)
Above: A pretty sunrise illuminates
the curious tors and tarns (crags and ponds) on Hump Ridge, Fiordland
National Park,
South Island, New Zealand.
New Zealand Overview:
New Zealand is one of my
favorite
countries to visit. Scenery in this South Pacific country varies
dramatically in short
distances, perfect for touring by car, bicycle or feet. New Zealand is
bigger than the UK, smaller
than Japan, and about the size of Colorado. Fully 30% of New Zealand is
preserved in parkland, very attractive for wilderness lovers.
75% of New Zealand's plants are found nowhere else.
I especially enjoy renting a car (or
campervan), staying
in
comfortable motor camp cabins, and hiking (or "tramping") to mountain
huts. Planes, buses, jet boats, & water taxis efficiently assist
one-way hikes or tours. Most cities have an excellent "i-Site" or
tourist office with excellent free highway maps,
pamphlets, lodging & campground directories, and free
bookings.
New Zealander culture is very friendly, neighborly
and down-to-earth. Visiting here can be as comforting as "going home to
Grandma" or as exciting as bungy
jumping. New Zealanders, or Kiwis as
they call themselves,
speak
English, so you can experience the culture more deeply than in a
country
where
language is a barrier. Their soft accent is
endearing, such as when they
say
"yis" for yes and raise the end of most "sintinces"
(sentences) like a question, in a polite tone.
Carol
and I loved our 25-day honeymoon in January
1998 on the
South
Island. After 100 miles of hiking
in
varied wilderness scenery (with a hilly 16,000 feet of total elevation
gain), we felt strong and invigorated. From February 12 to March 27,
2007, we
returned for an equally enjoyable 6 weeks on both islands, tramping 175
miles. On an earlier trip
in 1992, a friend and I drove for a pleasant two weeks on North Island,
exploring the "Walkways" & staying in motor camp
cabins. For my first trip overseas, in 1981 I "tramped" and bicycled
for a memorable two months with family on the South Island, based at my
parents
sabbatical-year home in Christchurch.
Left:
The kea is an alpine parrot unique to New Zealand, commonly seen in the
Southern Alps.
History
& Economy:
According to some Māori
mythology, Polynesian navigator Kupe discovered New Zealand around AD
925. Most Polynesians arrived in their waka
(sea canoes) about ~1350 AD. They mainly settled North Island,
because South Island was too cold. Over about 100 years, they hunted
one of earth's largest known birds, the moa, to extinction, which also
extinguished the world's largest eagle. The Polynesians in New Zealand
were not known as Maoris until
after the arrival of the Pakeha, people
of European descent. British and Maori leaders signed the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840, founding
New Zealand along with Maori rights. In
1893, New Zealand became the
world's first country to grant women the right to vote. New
Zealand became independent from
Britain in 1947.
Currently 15% of the population call
themselves Maori, a group which is
experiencing a renaissance of new respect and improved land
rights. Half of New Zealand has been domesticated with pasture &
farmland. Sheep outnumber people by about fifteen to one, yet
agriculture contributes only
17% of the economy. The nation is more urban than ever now, but Kiwis
still love their parks and feel a strong connection with nature. New
Zealand's 4 million
people mostly work in
service, tourism & manufacturing industries, and depend heavily
upon exports (29% of Gross Domestic Product/GDP).
New Zealand Geology:
Geologists believe that New Zealand detached from the ancient southern
continent of
Gondwanaland 80 million
years ago, isolating the evolution
of many
ancient plants and animals, most of which are found nowhere else.
Thrust
faulting, crustal shortening and vertical slips rapidly lift the
Southern Alps up to 10 mm
per
year, about the same rate as heavy rainfall & erosion wears them
down. Volcanoes have formed most of North Island's
mountains.
In 1990, UNESCO declared South
West New Zealand to
be the "Te
Wahipounamu World Heritage Area" (which includes
Westland National
Park,
Mount Cook National Park,
Mount Aspiring National Park,
and
Fiordland
National
Park), and described it as follows:
"This park offers a landscape
shaped
by successive glaciations into fjords, rocky coasts, towering cliffs,
lakes and
waterfalls. Two-thirds of the park is covered with southern beech and
podocarps, some of which are over 800 years old. The kea, the only
alpine
parrot in the world, lives in the park, as does the rare and endangered
takahe,
a large flightless bird." The North Island's
Tongariro National Park
was also delcared a World Heritage Site for cultural and natural
importance.
General
New Zealand Trip Planning:
- For trips of 1 to 2 weeks,
I recommend driving a
loop on the South Island,
which offers more wilderness than the more populated North
Island. If you love
wilderness, go to South Island. See North Island
later on a separate or longer trip.
- For trips of 3 weeks or more,
save
half price on transportation: I highly recommend flying from
Auckland to Christchurch, then renting
a
car or campervan one-way from Christchurch to Auckland (Scotties Rental Car, link to their site).
This
one-way vehicle relocation
deal is discounted 50% when traveling south to north, and also cuts
flying cost in half by eliminating a return flight. We really enjoyed 6 weeks.
- Guidebooks recommended: New
Zealand, and Tramping in New
Zealand, both by Lonely Planet
Publications. Moon Publications are also good. For easy
walks on North
Island: AA Guide to Walkways,
North
Island, Lansdowne Press (AA is the Automobile Association
of New Zealand).
- Food: We bought most of
our
food in big-city groceries and cooked it in the public or
private kitchens in the Holiday Parks & campgrounds. Bring or buy a
collapsible
cooler (or portable "chilly bin") to store perishable items on
ice in
the car, then transfer to the refrigerator found in most rented rooms.
Buy ice at petrol stations or some grocery stores. Renting a campervan
has the advantage of a built-in refrigerator.
- A campervan (also known
as a caravan,
camper, motor home, mobile home or RV) will let you
stay in more places spontaneously, but will cost more than a car per
day
for rental & gasoline. A campervan lets you experience the outdoors
more
intimately and can be very fun. (A tent is even more intimate with
nature and the cheapest option, but much less comfortable due to wind
and rain.)
- Economy car plus lodging:
When you add up the cost of vehicle rental, gas, lodging &
campgrounds, driving an economy car is cheaper than a
campervan. Holiday Park
tourist flats or cabins typically cost from NZ$40 to $150 for a double
room (in 2007). Car rental is
especially cheaper than a campervan per day when you will be
staying in
mountain huts away from the vehicle for a week or more. Cheapest
car
rentals
may be in town away from the airport, such as used-car rentals -- check
the internet (Scotties Rental Car, link to their site).
- Holiday Parks or motor camps
(campgrounds) offer great value in lodging everywhere in New Zealand,
usually cheaper than traditional motels or "Bed & Breakfasts". You
can choose from the following options, all of which
can use the public self-service
kitchens and bathrooms: tent
sites; or campervan sites
with optional hook-ups; or
cheap dormitory; or nice cabins, many with ensuite bathroom and/or kitchen;
or "self-contained"
high-end Tourist Flats.
- Advance Bookings: You
should
reserve rooms 3 or 4 days ahead in high season (December-February) in
popular areas such as Queenstown and Wanaka. Reserving a site for your
campervan is not as critical as for booking a bed, since rooms sell out
much quicker than campsites. In 1997 we brought a tent as a back-up, but
never used it, since we always stayed in motor
camp cabins & motels, spontaneously booked sometimes one or two
days ahead. Compared to our earlier trips, lodging in 2007 was
noticeable tighter in most major
tourist areas, requiring booking two days ahead, or more during
festival events. If you don't book far enough ahead, the last rooms in
town tend to be the most expensive.
- i-Sites: You can reserve
your
lodging in advance with no fees at the very helpful tourist "i-Sites"
or other tourist offices found everywhere in New Zealand. Pick from an
astounding array of excellent free
highway maps &
detailed guides. i-Sites charge
you no fees
because they get 10% from lodging providers.
- Phone cards: For
easy calling within New Zealand (and to phone numbers abroad) at the
cheapest rate per minute, buy a prepaid rechargeable phone card such as
CheapChat, at any motor
camp or tourist office. (Dial
an 0800 number and enter a pin code then dial the number.)
Don't buy Telecom's expensive card. Phoning ahead to reserve your
lodging directly as needed can be more convenient
than trying to find the next i-Site during open hours.
Alternatively, you
could get by without a phone card, and just book all your lodging
through i-Sites.
- Driving tips: Drive on
the left side of the road in New Zealand. In roundabouts, yield to the
car approaching
on your right. Allow plenty of time for driving on
the curvy
roads, which average about 75 kilometers per hour across the country.
Road surfaces were maintained in excellent condition everywhere in
2007. Most roads are two-lane, with frequent single-lane bridges, some
shared with railways - watch for yield signs. Drive slowly &
defensively, and watch out for aggressive
drivers and animals in the road.
- Overnight Tramping/Hiking Trips:
- On the many tramping
tracks (hiking trails), we enjoy the self-service
huts,
where you carry your own sleeping bag
& food, cook using the hut's
stoves, and sleep in a shared dorm-room on mattressed beds. Self-service huts are
much more comfortable than the tenting
option (where you must carry your own stove, fuel, tent, &
sleeping
pad), and much cheaper than the full-service
huts (which provide meals, hot showers, and guides). Some hikes
such as Hump
Ridge, Nydia Track and Queen
Charlotte Track offer private rooms and hot showers.
- Bring rain gear that
can withstand long
downpours.
- Gas cookers (stoves)
are provided in peak season on the Tuatapere Hump
Ridge, Tongariro Northern Circuit, Routeburn, Kepler, and Milford
Tracks, and at Aspiring Hut (NZAC).
- For free
recreation brochures, check i-Sites
first, since DOC offices
charge for info sheets.
(For example, at Stratford's i-Site, we picked up the free Pouakai
Track pamphlet published by Venture Taranaki, which is much
better than DOC's sheet.)
- DOC offices (the
national
Department of Conservation, which runs most parks) are the best places
to prepare for overnight tramping
trips, reserve huts, and to buy excellent topographic maps. Most tracks are very well
marked.
- The "Great Walks"
include the Milford
Track, Routeburn Track, Abel Tasman
Coast Track, Kepler Track, Heaphy
Track, and Lake
Waikaremoana Track, which all require advance reservations for
overnight
huts. For popular huts, you often must reserve weeks or months
in advance, which means you take
your
chances with the weather. But the restricted number of hikers on the
trail makes the
trip less crowded & more pleasant.
- As of 2007, you don't need reservations for huts on the Tongariro Northern Circuit or Rakiura Track (Stewart Island) -
both of these Great Walks have dormitory huts which are first come,
first served.
- The "Great Walks" are very popular
and well maintained, but
don't forget that New Zealand offers many other
excellent hikes on well-maintained trails, such as: Hump
Ridge, Nydia Track and Queen
Charlotte Track.
- Some excellent but tougher overnight
tracks
that require some scrambling include: 1) Crucible
Lake Hike from Siberia Hut, and/or 3+day Wilkin-Young Circuit ; 2) Pouakai Track on Mount
Egmont/Taranaki
South Island Tips:
I rate the following activities as ***
must
do, **
do, or *
maybe do. I list these activities in
order of a general loop starting at Christchurch, looping west, south,
then ending in the north at Picton, where you can ferry to
North Island.
- Christchurch:
- ** Arthur's Pass National Park:
day hike Avalanche Peak
- West Coast:
- *** Paparoa National
Park,
Punakaiki Pancake Rocks. Easy
walks. Or hike Inland Pack Track
starting at Fox River mouth, visiting Upper Fox Cave, overnight at The
Ballroom, and explore Dilemma Creek as a day hike.
- Westland / Tai Poutini
National Park: Fox Glacier
& Franz Josef Glacier
- *** Lake Matheson
boardwalk trail (2.5 miles round the lake; just west of the town of Fox Glacier) has spectacular
reflections of Mounts Cook
& Tasman on a calm day.
- ** Walking to the tongue of Fox
Glacier is an easy & rewarding 4 miles round trip.
- * Roberts Point Track:
This
slippery and rocky track traverses some fun suspended boardwalks
through lush forests of tree ferns, taking you to nice views of Franz Josef Glacier. If
you like vigorous exercise in beautiful native forest away from the
crowds, you may like this track.
- Mount Aspiring National
Park (Wanaka & Queenstown):
- *** Siberia Hut &
Crucible Lake: I
recommend to fly in to Siberia Valley from Makarora (NZ$160 per person)
and jet
boat out (NZ$60 per person). Day hike the spectacular but extremely
steep & rooty track to
Crucible Lake, and overnight at Siberia Hut. . The easiest one-day
option is "The
Siberia Experience" (link to their site):
fly in then hike out to the jet
boat in 2.5 hours. The non-powered, backpacking alternative is to tramp
3 to 4 days on the
scenic Wilkin-Young Circuit,
with two cautious river crossings
- *** Rob Roy Valley Track
(easy 8 miles, 900 feet
gain) is one of our favorite day hikes
in the world. From Wanaka, you
drive up the Matukituki Valley
to the trailhead. Great hanging
glaciers, crashing streams & waterfalls, swing suspension bridge
& kea parrots. You can also hike onwards to Aspiring Hut overnight (easy, with
good views). Spectacular French Ridge
Hut adds a second night, up a very steep scramble on a rooty
track.
- *** The Routeburn Track is a very scenic alpine
traverse with expansive views,
accessible from Queenstown. In
1998 we booked the Routeburn several months in advance, with a bus
to The Divide and 3-day hike to Routeburn Shelter. We enjoyed it
despite rain and mist obscuring views, though we had to return in 2007
for sunshine & best views. In 2007, we day hiked to the
impressive Harris Saddle & Conical Hill highpoint, from an
overnight stay in Routeburn Flats Hut, booked on two
days notice to catch good a weather forecast (recommended). Try to book
Routeburn
Falls Hut, which is more spectacular but fills up months in advance.
- ** The spectacular Cascade
Saddle is easiest approached via the Rees-Dart Track, a
5 day backpack with huts, & optional jet boat to help shorten the
trip. Start with a base in Queenstown
or Glenorchy. You
can also hike Cascade Saddle via a dangerously steep track from
Aspiring Hut - watch out going downhill on slippery vegetation.
Below right:
Milford
Sound is
a
beautiful, deeply
carved
fiord, in Fiordland National Park. Geologically speaking, Milford should be called
a fiord (or fjord), which is glacier-carved. A
"sound" is water-carved.
- Fiordland National Park:
- *** Our favorite track is the privately-run Tuatapere Hump
Ridge Track (new in
2000) in
Fiordland NP, which has excellent new dormitory huts, breakfast
included, with optional hot showers
& private
rooms***. You can also helicopter your pack for a fee. This
track has it all: lush wilderness, excellent footing, extensive
boardwalks, alpine views, ocean beaches, history, and a walk across the
world's largest existing wooden viaduct. We recommend taking the 4WD
Track Transport, which shortens the track to a more comfortable 27
miles over 3 days.
- *** We also recommend the 3-day Kepler Track, which we
reserved within a couple days notice in 1998, allowing us to fit into a
perfect
weather forecast. This high alpine ridge hike has expansive views,
insect-eating sundew plants, pretty rainforest with tree ferns, and
great
new huts, with playful kea (mountain parrots) that like to slide down
the roof.
- ** The Milford
Track
is a
fun 4-day hike, starting from a boat launch on Lake Te Anau,
wandering through glaciated valleys and over an alpine pass to Milford
Sound, an impressive glacier-carved fiord. You can optionally stay an
extra night and tour Milford Sound via a one-day kayak trip **. Return to Te Anau via
bus. The track cost NZ$120 per person in 2007, including transportation
to and from the Milford Track, with dormitory hut accommodation, gas
cookers
provided (bring your own food & sleeping bag). Add NZ$50 for
optional Milford Sound boat tour 1 hour 40 minutes. (Kiwis spell the
word "fiord", which is more commonly spelled "fjord" elsewhere, such as
in Norway.)
- * Dusky Sound Track: a long
adventure of 8+ days by boat across Lake Manapouri, hiking through
remote rain forest over Centre Pass to Dusky Sound and back. Can also
route via Lake Hauroko.
- Southeast coast:
- ** The Catlins are fun
to explore, including Nugget Point, Cathedral Caves, and waterfalls.
- *** Moeraki Boulders:
Fascinating rock spheres up to 2 meters in diameter scattered along the
seashore. These calcite concretions formed slowly 65 million years ago
and were tectonically uplifted.
- * If you
like birds, the colonies of blue penguins and rare yellow-eyed penguins
are worth visiting, such as at Oamaru,
Dunedin and Otago Peninsula (Sandfly Bay). We
didn't see these little New Zealand penguins because we had already
seen other penguins in Australia and Antarctica.
- * Royal Albatross
Colony (link to their site),
Otago Peninsula, best December through February. See the world's
largest flying seabird and world's smallest penguin (blue penguin) in one place.
- ** Stewart Island, Ulva
Island: best chance to see or hear kiwis and other native birds
in the wild
- *** Mount Cook National Park,
Mt. Cook Village:
- *** Hike easy & very scenic Hooker Valley Track (6
miles, 850
feet).
- *** Hike Sealy Tarns
(5 miles,
1700 feet, steep). Or hike further to spectacular Mueller Hut, optional
overnight, booked at DOC, requiring a sleeping bag.
- The Copeland Track:
In 1981 my brothers and I hiked this fantastic 3
day adventure
over the shoulder of Mt. Cook one way to the rainforest side and
relaxing Welcome Flat Hot Springs, requiring bus/car shuttle. But as of
1995-2007, this is a
dangerous scree traverse on
unstable moraine due to a landslide wiping out the trail. Copeland
Pass is now hiked
by very few people from the Mount Cook side, but is still accessible
via the West Coast trailhead to Welcome Flat Hot Springs & Hut.
Check with the DOC (Department of Conservation).
Requires rental of ice axe &
crampons.
- The
prevailing Westerly winds dump most of their moisture on the West
Coast, leaving Mount Cook Village with a sunnier climate, east of the
Alps.
- A double room at the YHA Youth
Hostel (link to their site) at Mount
Cook village (link) is a
good value. If you have a vehicle, staying at nearby ** Glentanner Park (link)
(cabins &
caravan sites) is easier to book.
- Northern end of South Island:
- ** Nelson Lakes National Park:
the Honeydew nature trail is
informative about the non-native wasp problem. A day hike of ** Robert Ridge would be very
scenic,
I hear.
- ** 2-3+ day backpack from St.
Arnaud: water taxi to the south end of Lake Rotoiti (or hike
there in a day to Coldwater Hut or Lakehead Hut), hike Cascade Track to
Angelus Hut for 1 or more nights; hike back to St. Arnaud over Robert
Ridge (or take Speargrass Creek Track if weather turns bad). Good
wilderness hiking through native forest & alpine views down to wild
Lake
Rotoiti.
- ** Nelson: WOW, the World
of WearableArt & Classic Cars Museum (link):
a visual feast. The WOW
live show (link) is a world-class
nouveau art event, held yearly in Wellington, North Island, September
20-30, 2007. Be sure to see the video at the museum if you cannot go to
the live performance.
- ** Nydia Track,
Marlborough Sounds: The
best part can be done as a day hike from the Duncan Bay side over to
Nydia Bay and back. We hiked the full two days with help of water taxi
& bus; an good hike if you have time.
- ** Queen Charlotte
Track,
Marlborough Sounds: The best part of the Queen Charlotte Track
can be walked as a day hike round trip
from Picton via water taxi: drop off at beautiful & historic Ship Cove,
and walk to Furneaux Lodge for pick up. The remainder of the track is
clear cuts alternating with forest, mostly not wilderness, but you get
sweeping views of
Marlborough Sounds from the ridge walk. Most people have their pack
transported via water taxi from hotel to hotel on this comfortable
track.
- * Abel Tasman
National Park: If you like beaches and don't mind sharing with lots
of
hikers & boats, the Abel
Tasman
Coastal Track
is an easy jaunt along former logging roads through green forest.
However, the native forest throughout the park needs another 100 years
to recover from logging that ended in the 1970's. Most of the ecosystem
is in stage 2 of the 4 regrowth stages, so you won't see much old
growth forest - Carol and I were not impressed. Our day hikes to Separation Point and Anapai Beach were
pleasant, but we prefer the purer wilderness of Fiordland and Mount Aspiring National
Park.
- If the South Island summary above leaves you wanting more
glorious details, click here for our 2007
itinerary & travel
tips
(18 pages), for 6 weeks
of
tramping on both islands.
** Kayaking:
- Spontaneously booking with one-day notice gives you a more
accurate
wind/weather forecast. Beware of
wind & waves. Our Milford Sound kayaking
day trip was
difficult pulling into a strong wind; but the next day was perfect
weather!
- In warm Abel Tasman National Park, you might enjoy Kaiteriteri Kayaks (link to
their site) "Soul Food" day trip,
or multi-night options (or other companies).
- When
doing water
sports, I recommend using a water resistant camera. A less expensive
solution is buying a waterproof housing ($160 and up,
available for many popular cameras), which
lets you
operate the camera buttons under water. (When enclosed in its
underwater
housing, the tiny Canon Powershot SD700 IS makes an excellent
waterproof
camera.)
Right image:
Kayaking Milford Sound,
Fiordland
National Park, New Zealand. I shot this image with a point-and-shoot
Pentax IQ
Zoom 928 camera, which we accidently soaked with water while fighting
the wind
when paddling across Milford Sound. The camera zoom thrashed under its
own
power for several minutes before dying. After the trip I developed the
water-damaged film, which was covered in purple water spots. I repaired
the
image in Adobe Photoshop to preserve this travel memory, and I was
fortunate to
get the image published [in Sierra
Magazine,
Sierra Club Outings May/June 2003].
*** Bicycling:
- Motor camps
offered
convenient accomodation at good intervals almost everywhere. Be
prepared
for very hilly terrain. If you take your bicycle on a jet, be sure to
pad it very carefully to avoid damage. Be prepared for delayed luggage.
Within New Zealand, you can also ship your bicycle ahead via bus.
- With my
brother Jim in 1981, I rode 500 miles in 10 days
from Lake Te Anau to Christchurch past beautiful lakes, rolling hills
and pastoral farms, in the rain shadow of the glacier-clad
Southern Alps.
- My brother Dave and I
bicycled an exciting, steep mountain route from Christchurch over
Arthurs Pass to Paparoa
National Park.
Southern
South Island:
Below are my favorite images. For a more complete set from our 2007
trip, see
my galleries:
South Island-A ,
South Island-B
,
North Island-C
[ requires Adobe Flash
]
Fiordland
National Park:
Upon request I also have images of the
Kepler
Track and Lake Te Anau.
Tuatapere Hump Ridge
Track:
The Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track is our favorite track in New Zealand
because of its scenic variety
and comfortable huts, with optional private rooms and hot showers.
Above: A pretty sunset illuminates
the curious tors and tarns (crags and ponds) on Hump Ridge, Fiordland
National Park,
South Island, New Zealand. (Panorama
stitched from 4 images.)
Above: A pretty sunrise illuminates
the curious tors and tarns (crags and ponds) on Hump Ridge, Fiordland
National Park,
South Island, New Zealand.
(Panorama stitched from 5 images.)
Above: Tom explores the Hump Ridge
Track.
Below: A morepork or ruru (small native owl, Latin name Ninox
novaeseelandiae
), on the Tuatapere
Hump Ridge Track, in Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand.
Above: Lake Poteriteri, Fiordland
National Park.
Above: sunset on the Hump Ridge Track.
Above: sunrise over Ta Waewae Bay,
seen from the boardwalk viewpoint above Okaka Hut, Hump Ridge Track.
Above: Historic Percy Burn Viaduct,
built for logging in 1923 (36 meters high and 124 meters long), is now
an attraction on the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track, in Fiordland National
Park, South Island, New Zealand
Above: Blowholes Beach, on the
Southern Ocean, along the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track, in Fiordland
National Park, South Island.
Above: New Zealand fur seal, at Blowholes Beach, on the Southern Ocean,
on the Tuatapere Hump Ridge
Track, in Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand
Dusky Sound Track:
Left: My brother Jim crosses
a stream in a beech
forest, on the remote Dusky Sound
Track,
Fiordland
National Park.
Below right: Jim hikes
in beech forest
above Tripod
Hill towards Centre Pass, on the Dusky Sound Track, in
Fiordland National
Park.

Milford Track:
See also
kayaking Milford Sound above.
Left: The glaciated cliffs above the Milford Track reflect in a pond near
Hidden Lake, in Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand.
Below: My brother Dave climbs
Mt. Hart
above MacKinnon Pass, above
the Milford
Track, in Fiordland
National Park.
Mount Balloon (6080 feet elevation) pierces the clouds.
More Milford Track images are available upon request.
Below right: Backpackers hike on the Milford Track below glaciated cliffs in Fiordland National Park.

Left: A hiker on Mackinnon Pass (3520 feet elevation) gazes at Mt. Balloon (6080 feet elevation),
on the Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, South Island, New
Zealand.
Above right: Hikers admire the magnificent
three-tier Sutherland Falls (1903 feet/580 meters), on the Milford
Track, New Zealand.
Left: Dave ascends Mount Hart, which is an unmarked
side trip above the Milford Track. Mt. Balloon (6080 feet) pierces the rapidly incoming fog.
Above right: From above MacKinnon
Pass on
the Milford
Track, we see Mt. Balloon (6080 feet) piercing the clouds.
Left: Located on Milford Sound, Sandfly Point is where the boat picks up
hikers finishing the Milford Track, in Fiordland National Park, South
Island, New Zealand.
Below right:
Milford
Sound is
a
beautiful, deeply
carved
fiord, in Fiordland National Park. Geologically speaking, Milford should be called
a fiord (or fjord), which is glacier-carved. A
"sound" is water-carved.
The Routeburn Track:
The Routeburn Track crosses from Fiordland National Park over the
alpine pass of Harris Saddle into Mount Aspiring National Park (hiked
in either direction).
Left: Beech tree and Lake
Mackenzie, in
Fiordland
National Park, on
the Routeburn Track.
Below right:
Waterfall in Fiordland
National
Park on the
Routeburn
Track, South Island.
Above: A day shelter at Harris
Saddle, on the Routeburn Track, which straddles Fiordland and Mount
Aspiring National Parks, New Zealand. This view looks across the deep
Hollyford Valley to peaks in
Fiordland National Park.
Above: Peaks rise high above
Hollyford Valley, on the Routeburn Track, in Fiordland National Park,
New Zealand. (Panorama
stitched from 2
images. On smaller resolution screens, scroll right to see entire
image, 1150 pixels wide.)
Above: Peaks rise high above
Hollyford Valley in Fiordland National Park, as seen from atop Conical
Hill, on the Routeburn Track, New Zealand. (Panorama stitched from 14
images. On smaller resolution screens, scroll right to see entire
image, 1800 pixels wide.)
Below: A glacier clad peak rises above the Hollyford Valley in Fiordland National
Park, as seen from atop Conical
Hill, on the Routeburn Track, New Zealand.

Fiordland NP (above) Index:
Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track
,
Dusky Sound Track ,
Milford Track ,
The Routeburn Track
Mount
Aspiring National
Park:

Left: Small ponds on Harris Saddle,
which is a pass above Lake Harris on the Routeburn Track, in Mount
Aspiring National Park, New Zealand.
Below: Trampers cross Harris Saddle above ponds and Lake Harris,
beneath Mount
Xenicus on the Routeburn Track.
Above: Lake Harris, and Mount
Xenicus, on a sunny day in 2007 on the Routeburn Track, Mount Aspiring
National Park, New Zealand. (Panorama
stitched from 2 images. On smaller resolution screens, scroll right to
see entire
image, 1148 pixels wide.)
Below: Lake Harris on a rainy
day in 1998.
Left: Routeburn Falls (next to Routeburn Falls Hut), on the Routeburn Track, in Mount Aspiring National Park.
Below: Routeburn Falls time exposure.
Above: Lake Harris, and Mount
Xenicus, on the Routeburn Track at 2:00pm, Mount Aspiring National
Park, New Zealand. (Panorama
stitched from 5 images. On smaller resolution screens, scroll right to
see entire
image, 1200 pixels wide.)
Below: A bend in the trail on the Routeburn Track
above Lake Harris at 5:00pm, beneath Mount Xenicus, Mount Aspiring
National Park, New Zealand. (Panorama
stitched from 5 images. On smaller resolution screens, scroll right to
see entire
image, 1200 pixels wide.)

Left: Carol crosses a swing bridge on the Routeburn Track in
fair weather in 2007.
Below right: Carol crosses a swing bridge on
rainy day in 1998, across the swollen Route Burn (river) on the
Routeburn Track.

Above: A clear day in 2007
overlooking Routeburn Flats, on the Routeburn Track, in Mount Aspiring
National Park, New Zealand.
Below: Routeburn Flats in the rain in 1998.
Above: Tom crosses a swing bridge on
the Routeburn Track in Mount Aspiring National Park, in the Southern
Alps, New Zealand.
Rob Roy Valley Track:
Below left: Matukituki Valley,
Mt. Aspiring National Park: A long swing
bridge starts the gorgeous Rob Roy
Valley Track. [Published
in November/December
2002 Sierra
Magazine, Sierra Club Outings.]

Left: Tom & Carol
Dempsey enjoy the waterfalls crashing from
impressive hanging glaciers at Rob Roy Valley, Mt. Aspiring National
Park.

Above: Carol smiles at a kea alpine
parrot on the Rob Roy Track.
Below right: Cattle in lower Matukituki Valley.
Left: West Matukituki River swing
bridge, Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand
Above right: Rob Roy Valley, Mount Aspiring
National Park, New Zealand
Above: Kea, alpine parrot, in Rob Roy
Valley, Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand
Above: Rob Roy Valley, Mount Aspiring
National Park, New Zealand
Above: Rob Roy Valley, Mount Aspiring
National Park, New Zealand
Siberia Valley & Crucible Lake (on the
Wilkin - Young Circuit):
Above: Refueling the small plane
before flying over the Southern Alps, New Zealand.
Above: Mount Alba, 2360 meters
elevation, Southern Alps, New Zealand
Above: Mount Alba (2360 meters
elevation) rises 1188 meters or 3900 feet above the ice-dotted Crucible
Lake, in the Southern Alps, New Zealand
Above: Hikers are rewarded with a
spectacular ice bowl at Crucible Lake (1172 meters / 3844 feet elevation). Crucible
Lake still floats big
ice bergs in late summer, in Mount Aspiring National Park, South
Island, New Zealand. Hiking to Crucible Lake takes at least 8 hours
round trip (10 hours with my photography), from Siberia Hut, on a very
steep and rooty trail (2300
feet or 700 meters vertical gain).
Above: Our small plane descends into
Siberia Valley for this aerial
view in Mount Aspiring
National Park, in the Southern Alps, New Zealand
Above: Crossing Siberia Stream, in
Siberia Valley, in Mount Aspiring National Park, in the Southern Alps,
New Zealand
Above: Crucible Stream Valley, South
Island, New Zealand
Above: Ranunculus lyallii, also known
as the Mount Cook Lily, is the most beautiful flower in the Buttercup
family. I photographed these beauties in the alpine zone at about 3500
feet elevation, a short distance below Crucible Lake.
Above: Siberia Stream, in Mount
Aspiring National Park, in the Southern Alps, New Zealand
Above: To save a river crossing and a full day of
walking, we hired a jet boat to ferry us out on the Wilkin River. This area is part of the
Wilkin-Young River Circuit in
Mount Aspiring National Park,
in the Southern Alps, New Zealand.
Southeast
Coast of South Island:
Above: Sailboats are anchored here in
the harbor (or harbour) of Oamaru, New Zealand.
Above: Takiroa Maori Rock Art, near
Duntroon, in the Waitaki Valley, north Otago, South
Island.
Left: Old weathered blue painted door
at Clyde, New Zealand.
Below: Hinge on a peeling blue
painted door at Clyde, New
Zealand.
Left: In a building dating from 1900,
a broken wall hole reveals the green leaves of a tree outside, in
historic Old Cromwell, South Island, New Zealand
Below: Old weathered wood door with
red orange frame and arched window top, in a stone wall, at Clyde,
South Island, New Zealand.
Moeraki Boulders:
These calcite concretions formed
about 65 million years ago beneath sea sediments, over a period of
about 4 million years.
Above: A photographer is born.
A boulder erodes from a beach bluff.
The Catlins:
Index to the Catlins:
Purakaunui
Falls ,
Nugget Point ,
Cathedral Caves
Above: Florence Hill Lookout in the
Catlins district.
Purakaunui Falls:
Above: side view of Purakaunui Falls,
in the Catlins District, New Zealand.
Below: time exposure of Purakaunui
Falls, in the Catlins District, New Zealand.
Nugget
Point:
Below: A lighthouse and sea stacks make attractive scenery at
Nugget Point, the Catlins, New Zealand:
Below: Sea stacks and a rock arch make a pretty sight at
Nugget Point, the Catlins, New Zealand:
Cathedral Caves:
Above: People explore the impressive wave-cut Cathedral Caves, on the coast of the Catlins.
Below: Ghostly figures leave shadows in Cathedral
Caves, in the Catlins. Two separate caves cut into the rock and meet inside the cliff, forming a walk-through V shape.

Index to the Catlins (above):
Purakaunui
Falls ,
Nugget Point ,
Cathedral Caves
|
This page shows only highlights. For a more complete
set of
images, click here to see our 2007 New Zealand
trip in three galleries:
- South
Island-A (108 images): West Coast, Fox Glacier, Mount
Aspiring NP,
Fiordland NP, robin birds, Moeraki Boulders, and the Catlins (108
images).
- South
Island-B (59 images): Mount Cook NP, Abel Tasman NP, Nydia
Track, Queen
Charlotte Track, ferry (59 images).
- North
Island-C (81 images): Taranaki / Mount Egmont NP, Tongariro
NP, Lake
Waikaremoana, Te Urewera NP, Rotorua hot springs & Maori culture
(81 images).
- If the gallery doesn't display, please download Adobe Flash for
your browser (or press CTRL+R to refresh).
|
New
Zealand: 1 ~ 2 ~ 3
Page 1:
Overview & southern South Island
Index:
Below are three pages of my
favorite images from my
four trips to New Zealand:
- Page
1 (this page) : New
Zealand overview : trip planning
, history , economy , geology / South
Island tips , map / southern
South
Island : Fiordland , Milford Track , Routeburn , Mount Aspiring , Moeraki Boulders , The
Catlins
- Page 2 : northern South Island
: Mount Cook
/ West Coast : Franz
Josef & Fox
Glaciers , Lake Matheson , Paparoa NP Pancake
Rocks / Abel Tasman
, Marlborough Sounds : Nydia Track
, Queen
Charlotte Track
- Page 3
: North Island
: Travel Tips
, map /
Rotorua
: Maori culture , geothermal areas
/ Tongariro / Mount Egmont ,
Taranaki / Lake
Waikaremoana , Te Urewera / Wellington
, Putangiura Pinnacles
- For more, see my 2007 trip
galleries: South
Island-A (108
images) , South
Island-B
(59
images)
, North Island-C
(81 images) [require Adobe Flash]
& 2007
itinerary
(18 pages)
Photographs
Copyright 1981, 1992, 1998, 2007 by Tom Dempsey. Buy a Custom Print. ~ Send comments to: Tom@photoseek.com

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