
Index to this page:
Kauai
, Maui , The Big
Island
of Hawaii
The islands of Hawaii, Kauai, and Maui offer some of the best hiking
experiences in the world. The amazing natural beauty of the state of
Hawaii
has attracted me five times, and I will gladly return.
Kauai:
Below are some images from the 11-mile Kalalau Trail, one of
my favorite backpacking trips in the world. The trail crosses five
valleys
and ends at Kalalau Beach, where it is blocked by sheer cliffs (or Pali,
in Hawaiian). Thankfully, State permits limit the number of overnight
hikers
to this wonderful area. You can also find greater solitude in the off
season (non-summer).
Unfortunately, the Na Pali Coast is so spectacular that noisy
flight-seeing
helicopters fly over frequently, sometimes every 15 minutes, which is
annoying
for hikers. Having also flown over Kauai once, I admit that the
helicopter
views are amazing; I even saw a full circular rainbow, but my
lens
was only wide enough to capture an arc. However, I get a bigger reward
by working for the views, such as by hiking or kayaking. You can turn
the
hike into a day trip by having a boat drop you at Kalalau Beach, then
you
can hike back: call Captain Zodiac Raft Expeditions at 800-422-7824 or
808-826-9371, the only tour company which has a permit to drop off
passengers at Kalalau, part of the Na Pali Coast State Park, from May
15th through September 15th, departing from Kauai's Tunnel Beach, about
$100 per person, weather dependent.
Below: Cliffs rise spectacularly up to four thousand feet above Kalalau Beach on the Na Pali Coast:

Rainbow over surf.

Hala tree on the coast of Kauai.
You can hike to beautiful Hanakapiai Falls as an 8-mile day hike
from your car, or a 4-mile side trip from the Kalalau Trail.

My brother, David Dempsey, hikes through the wet half of the Kalalau
Trail. The second half of the trail receives much less rainfall.
Palms and snorkelers on Kee Beach, Na Pali Coast.
Below right: Hala tree.

Spectacular green cliffs along the Kalalau Trail on the Na Pali
Coast.

Giant spike-leafed plants (agave-like) with tall blooms on the
Kalalau
Trail.

Of volcanic origin, the colorful cliffs of the Na Pali Coast are
now eroding into the ocean.

Silhouette in a sea cave just west of Kalalau Beach.

Me (Tom Dempsey) on Kalalau Beach (photo by David Dempsey).
Waves on Kalalau Beach at sunset, Na Pali Coast.

Sunset on Kalalau Beach.
Short-eared owl on Kalalau Beach.

Cattle egret, not a native bird on Hawaii.
Taro root, a traditional staple brought to Hawaii
by the original Polynesian immigrants in the 700's AD,
is a popular crop grown in Hanalei Valley, in northeast Kauai.

Far right: A dove on Kauai (not native?)
Kalalau Valley seen from the Overlook at Kokee State Park.
(Published May 2002 by Garden Isle Disposal
Inc., a recycling and disposal company in Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii)

Rainbow over a ridge of Kalalau Valley seen from the Overlook at
Kokee State Park.

Kalalau Valley cliffs seen from Kokee State Park.
Rainbow over the Na Pali Coast (photographed from helicopter).

(Published May 2002 by Garden Isle Disposal
Inc., a recycling and disposal company in Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii.)
Waimea Canyon, the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," is mostly a State
Forest Reserve, open to hiking as well as hunting for feral pigs.
Below Right: I found this startling starfish fungus (2
inches
across) on the Awaawapuhi Trail at about 3000 feet elevation on
northwest
Kauai. The starfish fungus (Aseroe rubra) is an unusual tropical
member of the ornate stinkhorn family (Clathraceae, a
family
of fungus which emerge from a subterranean "egg" stage). At maturity it
has five to ten radiating arms, each divided into two slender
"tentacles."
A slimy, black spore mass occurs in the center and at the bases of the
radiating "tentacles." The spore slime has a fetid odor like rotting
meat,
attracting flies to carry away spores to new habitats.

Backpacking in Haleakala National Park on Maui is one of my favorite experiences in the world. Visitors can also day hike, ride horseback, bicycle, and drive to experience the fantastic scenery and rare ecosystem on this 10,023-foot dormant volcano.

Morning mists drift through the cinder cones in Haleakala Crater
and often evaporate by mid-afternoon.

Above right and below: Related to sunflowers, silverswords grow
for up to twenty years before a blooming with a huge flower stalk
between
May and November. After just a single gigantic bloom, the plant dies.
In
Haleakala Crater, the fascinating native silversword plants are
endangered
by feral goats. Silverswords grow only on Maui and the Big Island.

Horseback riders in Haleakala National Park. As you hike or ride
horseback across Haleakala Crater, the dry moonscape turns into a lush
green cloud forest in just 6 miles! The crater forms a bowl 7.5 miles
long
and 2.5 miles wide, and its floor averages 6700 feet in elevation. With
a National Park camping permit, you can sleep overnight in the crater
in
your own tent. Or you can reserve one of the three cabins.


Bicyclists can coast down 10,000 vertical feet on the 40-mile road
from the summit of Mount Haleakala. Commercial operators offer
supported
descents, as shown.

Early every morning, hundreds of people often drive to the summit
(10,023 feet)
to see sunrise over Haleakala (which means "House of the Sun" in
Hawaiian).
This wild nene, a goose native to Hawaii, drinks from a dripping
faucet at a campsite in Haleakala National Park.

Nene geese, which are related to Canada geese, graze at a campsite
in Haleakala Crater.
Leg bands shown here help scientists track these rare birds.

A mated pair of rare nene geese.
The ocean has carved this cave from basaltic rock columns, at
Waianapanapa
State Park, Maui.

Kula Botanical Gardens: South African ice plant (a succulent from
the Aizoaceae family).
The Big Island of
Hawaii:
Humans first populated the Hawaiian Islands chain on the Big Island.
Using large catamaran-like canoes with coconut-fiber sails, Polynesians
became some of the finest sailors in history. In the 700's AD,
Polynesians
bravely canoed here all the way from the Marquesas Islands and later
from
Tahiti. Early residents left rock pictographs, used simple tools and
irrigation,
lived in relative harmony with nature, fought wars with each other, and
passed down a proud culture through stories and songs to future
generations.
British Captain James Cook would not discover the Hawaiian Islands,
which
he called the Sandwich Islands, until a thousand years later, in 1778.

The Big Island is geologically the youngest island in the 25-million-year-old Hawaiian chain -- in fact it is still being created! Lava flows have blocked the Chain of Craters Road, and molten lava pours regularly into the Pacific Ocean. You can actually watch the Big Island grow. In 1987, UNESCO listed Hawaii Volcanoes National Park as a World Heritage Area.


The ocean has carved this arch from the volcanic basalt in southeast
Hawaii.

Sea cliffs at Pololu Valley Lookout in northern Hawaii.
Carved palm trunk on Halape Beach, Hawaii.

An earthquake sunk Halape Beach, killing its palm trees, on the
Big Island of Hawaii, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
Clouds over Hawaii.

Truck carrying sugar cane at dusk.
Seattle Aquarium: A tropical fish that eats coral.
Copyright 1984-1995 by Tom Dempsey. Photographs may not be copied without permission.
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