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Rainbow over the Na Pali Coast.
Right: Rainbow on the Na Pali Coast, Kauai (photographed from helicopter).

Hawaii, USA

Photographs Copyright 1984-1995 by Tom Dempsey. Photographs may not be copied without permission.
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Index to this page:   Kauai , Maui , The Big Island of Hawaii


The islands of Hawaii, Kauai, and Maui offer some of the best hiking experiences in the world. The amazing natural beauty of the state of Hawaii has attracted me five times, and I will gladly return.

Kauai:

Below are some images from the 11-mile Kalalau Trail, one of my favorite backpacking trips in the world. The trail crosses five valleys and ends at Kalalau Beach, where it is blocked by sheer cliffs (or Pali, in Hawaiian). Thankfully, State permits limit the number of overnight hikers to this wonderful area. You can also find greater solitude in the off season (non-summer). Unfortunately, the Na Pali Coast is so spectacular that noisy flight-seeing helicopters fly over frequently, sometimes every 15 minutes, which is annoying for hikers. Having also flown over Kauai once, I admit that the helicopter views are amazing; I even saw a full circular rainbow, but my lens was only wide enough to capture an arc. However, I get a bigger reward by working for the views, such as by hiking or kayaking. You can turn the hike into a day trip by having a boat drop you at Kalalau Beach, then you can hike back: call Captain Zodiac Raft Expeditions at 800-422-7824 or 808-826-9371, the only tour company which has a permit to drop off passengers at Kalalau, part of the Na Pali Coast State Park, from May 15th through September 15th, departing from Kauai's Tunnel Beach, about $100 per person, weather dependent.

Below: Cliffs rise spectacularly up to four thousand feet above Kalalau Beach on the Na Pali Coast:

Kalalau Beach, Na Pali Coast, Kauai

Kauai: Rainbow over surf
Rainbow over surf.
 
 


Hala tree on the coast of Kauai.
Hala tree on the coast of Kauai.

Hanakapiai Falls, Kalalau Trail, Kauai
You can hike to beautiful Hanakapiai Falls as an 8-mile day hike from your car, or a 4-mile side trip from the Kalalau Trail.

Hiking through rainforest on the Kalalau Trail.
My brother, David Dempsey, hikes through the wet half of the Kalalau Trail. The second half of the trail receives much less rainfall.

Kee Beach, Na Pali Coast, Kauai, State of Hawaii
Palms and snorkelers on Kee Beach, Na Pali Coast.
 
 

Below right: Hala tree.
Hala tree

Cliffs on the Na Pali Coast.
Spectacular green cliffs along the Kalalau Trail on the Na Pali Coast.

Hiking the Kalalau Trail, Na Pali Coast, Kauai

Giant plants on the Kalalau Trail.
Giant spike-leafed plants (agave-like) with tall blooms on the Kalalau Trail.
 
 





Kalalau Trail scene, Kauai.

Of volcanic origin, the red cliffs of the Na Pali Coast are now eroding into the ocean.
Of volcanic origin, the colorful cliffs of the Na Pali Coast are now eroding into the ocean.

Kauai

Silhouette in a sea cave near Kalalau Beach.
Silhouette in a sea cave just west of Kalalau Beach.

Silhouette on Kalalau Beach.
Me (Tom Dempsey) on Kalalau Beach (photo by David Dempsey).

Waves on Kalalau Beach, Na Pali Coast.
Waves on Kalalau Beach at sunset, Na Pali Coast. 

Sunset on Kalalau Beach.
Sunset on Kalalau Beach.

Short-eared owl on Kalalau Beach.
Short-eared owl on Kalalau Beach.

Cattle egret, not a native bird on Hawaii
Cattle egret, not a native bird on Hawaii.

Halalei Valley, Kauai
Taro root, a traditional staple brought to Hawaii
by the original Polynesian immigrants in the 700's AD,
is a popular crop grown in Hanalei Valley, in northeast Kauai.
 
 

A dove on Kauai
Far right: A dove on Kauai (not native?)

Kalalau Valley Rainbow, Kauai
Kalalau Valley seen from the Overlook at Kokee State Park.
(Published May 2002 by Garden Isle Disposal Inc., a recycling and disposal company in Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii)

Rainbow over Kalalau Valley ridge.
Rainbow over a ridge of Kalalau Valley seen from the Overlook at Kokee State Park.

Kalalau Valley cliffs.
Kalalau Valley cliffs seen from Kokee State Park.

Rainbow over the Na Pali Coast
Rainbow over the Na Pali Coast (photographed from helicopter).
 
 


(Published May 2002 by Garden Isle Disposal Inc., a recycling and disposal company in Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii.)

Kauai: Waimea Canyon
Waimea Canyon, the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," is mostly a State Forest Reserve, open to hiking as well as hunting for feral pigs.
 
 

Below Right: I found this startling starfish fungus (2 inches across) on the Awaawapuhi Trail at about 3000 feet elevation on northwest Kauai. The starfish fungus (Aseroe rubra) is an unusual tropical member of the ornate stinkhorn family (Clathraceae, a family of fungus which emerge from a subterranean "egg" stage). At maturity it has five to ten radiating arms, each divided into two slender "tentacles." A slimy, black spore mass occurs in the center and at the bases of the radiating "tentacles." The spore slime has a fetid odor like rotting meat, attracting flies to carry away spores to new habitats.


Maui:

Backpacking in Haleakala National Park on Maui is one of my favorite experiences in the world. Visitors can also day hike, ride horseback, bicycle, and drive to experience the fantastic scenery and rare ecosystem on this 10,023-foot dormant volcano.

Cinder cones in Haleakala Crater.
Morning mists drift through the cinder cones in Haleakala Crater and often evaporate by mid-afternoon.
 
 

Endangered silversword in bloom.
Above right and below: Related to sunflowers, silverswords grow for up to twenty years before a blooming with a huge flower stalk between May and November. After just a single gigantic bloom, the plant dies. In Haleakala Crater, the fascinating native silversword plants are endangered by feral goats. Silverswords grow only on Maui and the Big Island.

Silversword plant and rainbow in Haleakala Crater.

Horseback riders in Haleakala National Park.
Horseback riders in Haleakala National Park. As you hike or ride horseback across Haleakala Crater, the dry moonscape turns into a lush green cloud forest in just 6 miles! The crater forms a bowl 7.5 miles long and 2.5 miles wide, and its floor averages 6700 feet in elevation. With a National Park camping permit, you can sleep overnight in the crater in your own tent. Or you can reserve one of the three cabins.
 
 






Haleakala Crater, Maui









Bicycling 10,000 feet down in 40 miles from Haleakala summit.
Bicyclists can coast down 10,000 vertical feet on the 40-mile road from the summit of Mount Haleakala. Commercial operators offer supported descents, as shown.

Sunrise over Haleakala Crater.
Early every morning, hundreds of people often drive to the summit (10,023 feet)
to see sunrise over Haleakala (which means "House of the Sun" in Hawaiian).

This nene drinks from the leaky faucet.
This wild nene, a goose native to Hawaii, drinks from a dripping faucet at a campsite in Haleakala National Park.

A rare nene goose, native to Hawaii.

Grazing nene geese.
Nene geese, which are related to Canada geese, graze at a campsite in Haleakala Crater.
Leg bands shown here help scientists track these rare birds.


A mated pair of rare nene geese.

Sea cave at Waianapanapa State Park, Maui
The ocean has carved this cave from basaltic rock columns, at Waianapanapa State Park, Maui.

Ice Plant (native to South Africa)
Kula Botanical Gardens: South African ice plant (a succulent from the Aizoaceae family). 


The Big Island of Hawaii:
Humans first populated the Hawaiian Islands chain on the Big Island. Using large catamaran-like canoes with coconut-fiber sails, Polynesians became some of the finest sailors in history. In the 700's AD, Polynesians bravely canoed here all the way from the Marquesas Islands and later from Tahiti. Early residents left rock pictographs, used simple tools and irrigation, lived in relative harmony with nature, fought wars with each other, and passed down a proud culture through stories and songs to future generations. British Captain James Cook would not discover the Hawaiian Islands, which he called the Sandwich Islands, until a thousand years later, in 1778.

Fresh, glowing lava flows into the ocean and enlarges Hawaii.

The Big Island is geologically the youngest island in the 25-million-year-old Hawaiian chain -- in fact it is still being created! Lava flows have blocked the Chain of Craters Road, and molten lava pours regularly into the Pacific Ocean. You can actually watch the Big Island grow. In 1987, UNESCO listed Hawaii Volcanoes National Park as a World Heritage Area.

Fresh, glowing lava flows into ocean, enlarging Hawaii.
 
 

Sea arch carved from the volcanic basalt.
The ocean has carved this arch from the volcanic basalt in southeast Hawaii.

Hawaii coastline at Pololu Valley Lookout
Sea cliffs at Pololu Valley Lookout in northern Hawaii.

Carved palm trunk on Halape Beach, Hawaii.
Carved palm trunk on Halape Beach, Hawaii.

Halape Beach, submerged by earthquake
An earthquake sunk Halape Beach, killing its palm trees, on the Big Island of Hawaii, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

Clouds over Hawaii
Clouds over Hawaii.
 
 

Truck carrying sugar cane.
Truck carrying sugar cane at dusk.


Seattle Aquarium: A tropical fish that eats coral. 

Rainbow over ocean
Rainbow over ocean. 

Copyright 1984-1995 by Tom Dempsey. Photographs may not be copied without permission.


Index to this page:    Kauai , Maui , The Big Island of Hawaii

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