Photo/Travel Blog by Tom Dempsey – What's New

April 28, 2010

Light Travel book inspires outdoor photography by revealing magic of digital cameras


Look inside the book.

Light Travel: Photography on the Go teaches and inspires outdoor photography by revealing the magic of portable digital cameras. Learn how to compose and edit images, pick a camera, and capture evocative images worldwide.

  • Author: Tom Dempsey, 2009. Perfect-bound and stitched binding, 210 pages, 226 color photographs, 10-page glossary of photographic terms, fully indexed. Photoseek Publishing ISBN #978-0-578-03918-3.
  • Only sold here. US$40 includes tax and free shipping within USA and Canada. (Add US$15 for shipping to other countries.)
  • Buy with Paypal button above.
  • Or mail order in USA and Canada by sending a check for US$40 to: 

Tom Dempsey
354 NW 112th St
Seattle, WA 98177-4841

What readers say:

“…full of sound guidance and jaw-droppingly gorgeous full-color photographs” – reviewer Dan Barnett in the Chico ER newspaper. (March 4, 2010)

“I purchased your great book and I’ve read it cover to cover. It’s just wonderful.  Congratulations.  Those pictures!  …the locales delighted me. It’s just lovely.” – Scott W. of Seattle, WA. (March 7, 2010)

“Dad said to tell you that your book has the best technical information he’s seen.  And your photos are beautiful….  He says it’s an amazing book, a great book, and he likes the detail you go into.  He says it would be a great text book.” – Nancy & Bill Rauhauser. (January 24 & 31, 2010)

“Wanted to let you know I received your book today.  I am so thrilled with it .   I would like to thank you and Carol for sharing your talents  and the wonderful photo journal of your travels.   I just purchased my first Digital SLR camera (Rebel Xsi & the Canon ef-s 18-200 lens) and have much to learn.  I look forward to reading your book and applying (I hope) all the wonderful information you have shared on  photography.” – Sherry H. (April 27, 2010)

August 10, 2009

Links to outdoor recreation sites

Filed under: California,Montana,links — Tom Dempsey @ 8:45 am

January 5, 2009

Virginia, WV, North Carolina, Tennessee images of Appalachians autumn color, history

Filed under: North Carolina,Tennessee,Travel Advice,USA,Virginia,West Virginia — Tom Dempsey @ 4:21 pm
Visitors approach the precipice of Hanging Rock, a State Park in North Carolina, USA.

Visitors approach the precipice of Hanging Rock, a State Park in North Carolina, USA.

My wife and I enjoyed our trip to southeast USA, October 20-November 10, 2008 witnessing striking autumn colors and fascinating sites of US history. Click any link to read further on my web site Photoseek.com:

Enjoy!

June 1, 2008

Hiking tips for Glacier National Park, Montana

Filed under: Canada,Montana,Travel Advice — Tom Dempsey @ 3:01 pm

07GLA-1331-34_Two-Medicine-Lake.jpg

Above: Sinopah Mountain (8271 feet or 2521 meters) reflects in Pray Lake at sunrise, in Montana, in the Two Medicine area of Glacier National Park. (Panorama stitched from 4 images.)

Below are highlights from my images from Glacier National Park, Montana.For more images, see Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park on Photoseek.com:  1. Glacier NP, Montana (2007 trip image gallery) ; 2. Waterton Lakes NP, CANADA ; 3. abstract nature patterns of Waterton-Glacier ; 4. animals & insects of Waterton-Glacier 

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Left: Baring Creek tumbles over red and yellow rocks, in Montana, in Glacier National Park

Below right: This “Jammer”, a Glacier National Park Historic Red Bus, was built by the White Motor Company in the 1930′s, then rebuilt in 2001 to run on propane. A fleet of these vintage motor coaches provide tours and shuttle services in the park.

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
Glacier National Park offers some of the best mountain scenery in the world, ripe for nature walks, day hikes, and backpacking trips. I am delighted by the fantastic and colorful rock patterns at every scale, from inches to miles, throughout the park. Your chances are very good for seeing wild animals such as mountain goats, deer, marmots, ptarmigan.

Avalanche Gorge, Glacier National Park, Montana

 

Right: Water cuts through the mossy red rocks of Avalanche Gorge, Glacier National Park, Montana.

Glacier National Park, Montana: Upper Grinnell Lake overlook
Above: Upper Grinnell Lake Overlook, Grinnell Glacier, and Mt. Gould. Glacier National Park, Montana.

Mountain goat, Bearhat Mountain, Hidden Lake. Glacier National Park, Montana.

Left: Mountain goat, Bearhat Mountain, Hidden Lake. Glacier National Park, Montana.

Below right: Snow naturally frosts the trees at Hidden Lake, in Montana, in Glacier National Park.

 
Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Hiking Tips for Glacier and Waterton National Parks

Recommended hiking guidebook: “Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park”, from The Mountaineers Books (2003 edition).

Below right: Sunrise at Lake Saint Mary, and Wild Goose Island, in Montana, in Glacier National Park.
Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Weather

If Logan Pass is closed, driving around the south end of Glacier NP on Highway 2 takes only an extra 30 minutes, by way of East Glacier, to West Glacier.

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

 

Below right: Baring Creek flows over sediment ripples that are fossilized into the red rock.

Campground tips

  • Hot Showers are available at:   Rising Sun Campground Store;  Apgar West Entrance KOA;  St. Mary Lake KOA;  adjacent to Many Glacier Campground at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn; Rising Sun Inn (6 miles west of St. Mary Visitor’s Center, & 5 miles west of St Mary Campground);  Waterton Park townsite campground;   and others outside the park.
  • Per site limits are 2 vehicles, 8 people, & 2 tents (where space is available) in Glacier NP.
  • After Labor Day, all Glacier NP campgrounds are “first come first served” (non-reservable) campgrounds — arriving between 10am-1:30pm very likely gets a site. Check out time is 12:00 noon (re-register by 11:30 am).
  • Camping along Going-to-the-Sun Road:
    • Rising Sun Campground (on Lake McDonald) is open thru Sept 17, 2007. Adjacent to the campground is a camp store, a casual restaurant, and token operated showers (1 shower stall for men, 1 for women). Flush toilets; dump station. $20. In August 2007, it usually filled up after 6:00pm. 
    • Saint Mary campground, $23. Flush toilets; dump station, open 5/25 – 9/23/07; first come first served after Sept 3 (sites are reservable June 1 through September 3).
    • Campgrounds near Lake McDonald / West Glacier:
      • Apgar Campground (rarely fills up)
      • Fish Creek campground is closed after Sept 4, 2007. Reservable in summer, but usually doesn’t fill up.
      • Sprague Creek Campground) is open thru Sept 17. $20. Flush toilets.
      • Avalanche Campground is closed after Sept 4.
  • Many Glacier Campground open thru Sept 23, then primitive (waterless) thru Sept 29. $20. Flush toilets; dump station.  Filled up most days from 2 to 7:00pm in August 2007. Public showers & laundry are located behind Swiftcurrent Motor Inn’s Registration building. 3 shower stalls for men, 4 for women.
  • Two Medicine Lake Campground:  generally shaded by trees, some privacy. Open thru Sept 23. $20. No showers.
  • Glacier NP campgrounds, current filling status & details:  home.nps.gov/applications/glac/cgstatus/cgstatus.cfm
  • Plus numerous RV parks outside the National Park, with full facilities, such as the towns of West Glacier, East Glacier, & St Mary:
    • Polson / Flathead Lake KOA (800) 562-2130
    • West Glacier KOA (800) 562-3313 
    • St. Mary / East Glacier KOA  (800) 562-1504

Right: Rockwell Falls on Cobalt Creek, on the hike to Cobalt Lake, in the Two Medicine Lake area of Glacier National Park.

Day Hikes               

Check trail status at: www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/trailstatusreports.htm
Tom’s PRIORITY KEY for hikes below:   ***best.   **excellent.   *good if you have extra time. In addition to hikes below, many short hikes are available, with waterfalls, views, geology and so forth. Rainy day activities include waterfall hikes, games, or a good book.

West Glacier area
  • ** Bowman Lake, Numa Ridge Lookout (11.4 mi round trip, 2935 ft). “Magnificent grandeur of Bowman Valley & jade colored Bowman Lake…”  Drive 21 miles from Apgar to Polebridge, via Camas Road, to the “Outside North Fork Road” of which 11 miles are bumpy gravel. (Don’t take the “Inside Road”, which is very slow & bumpy, almost 4wd). From Polebridge, drive 6 miles gravel road to the trailhead at Bowman Lake Campground.
Two Medicine Lake area
  • ** Upper Two Medicine Lake (9.4 miles round trip, 370 feet gain)
  • * Cobalt Lake (11.4 miles round trip, 1400 feet gain) good viewpoints, attractive Rockwell Falls, colorful rocks, beautiful lake, beaver ponds, meadows. With extra energy, hike Two Medicine Pass (4.4 miles round trip, 830 feet, from Cobalt Lake) for “commanding view” of neighboring Paradise Park and Park Creek drainage.
  • Short hikes:
    • Running Eagle Falls (0.6 miles round trip)
    • Paradise Point (1.2 miles round trip) scenic peninsula that juts into Two Medicine Lake
    • Aster Falls (2.4 miles round trip)
Going-to-the-Sun Road area
  • *** Siyeh Pass (10.3 miles traverse one way with shuttle, 2390 up, 3300 down) (or 9.4 mi round trip without shuttle, 2390 feet gain). High alpine scenery.  Open 8/9/07.   Or even better to hike the following:
  • ***  Piegan Pass (13 miles traverse one way with shuttle, 1720 feet up) via Grinnell Lake & Josephine Lake to Swiftcurrent Lake trailhead. Same trailhead as Siyeh Pass, at Siyeh Bend.
  • * Otokomi Lake (10 mi round trip, 1900 ft) Deep red rocks, green forest, colorful scenery. Start at Rising Sun Campground.  Open 8/9/07.
  • ** Gunsight Lake (12.6 miles round trip; 1700 feet gain): popular day hike. Start at Jackson Glacier turnout, 4.9 miles east of Logan Pass. “Views of glaciers and mountains fill the horizon.”
  • *** Hidden Lake (6 mi round trip, or shorter if you don’t descend to lake, 1200 ft). We hiked this in 2002 — one of our favorite hikes in the world — well worth hiking again, this time in blue sky weather. “The parking lot at Logan Pass usually fills between the hours of 10:00am to 2:00pm, though this can vary during peak weekends.” Logan Pass (6,646 feet) is 32 miles from the west entrance and 18 miles from the east entrance. 
  • *** Swiftcurrent Pass (15.2 miles one way, backpacked in two days, 1400 feet gain, car shuttle) via Garden Wall (which can also be hiked 11.8 mi, 800 ft, one way with shuttle; plus 1200-ft, 2-mile side trip to spectacular Grinnel Lake overlook) “If you just have one day in the park, hike this”. Swiftcurrent Pass can also be day hiked 1 to 15 miles round trip, from zero or 3500 feet gain. Hiking up 2300 feet gains you a sufficiently good view.

Mountain goat, Hidden Lake, Glacier National ParkRight: A goat shows his teeth above Hidden Lake (see more: Waterton-Glacier animals).

Many Glacier Campground area
  • *** Iceberg Lake (9.4 miles RT, 1220 ft) (see also Ptarmigan Tunnel) Ice bergs in milky blue lake below 3000-foot cliffs. TRAIL OPEN – 8/8/07.  4.8 miles roun trip to junction above Ptarmigan Falls, plus 4.6 miles RT to Iceberg Lake.
  • ** Ptarmigan Tunnel (11.2 miles RT, 2315 ft) (see also Iceberg Lake) Fun tunnel, spectacular scenery. 4.8 miles round trip to junction above Ptarmigan Falls, plus 5.2 miles round trip to Tunnel.
  • *** Cracker Lake (11.2 mi RT, 1140 ft) Most eye-catching turquoise lake in park; 3000-foot cliffs; nice waterfalls. TRAIL OPEN from Cracker Flats to Cracker Lake 8/2/07. 
  • *** Grinnel Glacier (7.6 miles with boat rt, 11 miles without, 1700 ft) Gets close to the glacier, plus outstanding scenery. Open 7/13/07. Or hike Grinnel Lake, best via Piegan Pass traverse (above).
Waterton Lakes NP, CANADA (bring USA passport)
  • ** Carthew Traverse (12 miles one way, 2300 ft, car shuttle) We loved this so much in 2002, we may hike it again. High alpine lakes, meadows, waterfalls. (Stays within Canada; no boat required.)
  • * Bertha Lake (8.6 mi rt, 1542 ft) “Beautiful subalpine lake”. Falls.
  • * Goat Lake (8 mi, 984 ft rt) “Pretty area”. This trail starts at the exceptionally colorful Red Rock Canyon (which has a nice short nature trail, seen in 2002).
  • Goat Haunt (2-12 miles round trip, 1000 ft gain). Requires boat ride on Waterton Lakefrom Canada into USA (& back). Bring USA passports. In 2002, this boat ride was not very scenic in the opinion of Carol and I — * you probably need to hike or backpack into the mountains for better views. (Must get backcountry permit in Glacier NP, not Waterton.) The commercial boat (403) 859-2362 down Waterton Lake (Canada) to Goat Haunt, USA, may be cancelled, but other boats may run. Must leave Waterton dock by 4pm sailing to enable check in to US customs at Goat Haunt between 9am-5:30pm. Click here for latest Goat Haunt trail info from Glacier NP. At Goat Haunt you can do any or all of the following:
    • Day hikes from Goat Haunt: several “excellent hikes” 2-12 miles, and/or
    • camp overnight at open-sided shelters at the Goat Haunt boat dock, without having to carry a pack, or
    • backpack from Goat Haunt: Lake Francis 12.4 miles round trip, 1000 ft, plus optional 8 mile rt day extension to Brown Pass where “views are tremendous”

Backpacking

Check weather and reserve backcountry campsites at 8:00am, one day in advance, at the following offices: St. Mary Visitor Center, Two Medicine Ranger Station, Many Glacier RS, Polebridge RS, or Apgar Visiter Center. Popular campsites may be hard to get. Backpacking permit fees = $5 per person per night in 2007. Advance reservation fee ($30) is waived if reserved less than 24 hours in advance.

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Left: Glaciers at the headwaters of Boulder Creek Canyon, seen from above Siyeh Pass, Glacier National Park, Montana

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Above right: Sexton Glacier clings to the north face of Going-to-the-Sun Mountain, and melts into Baring Creek, flowing into Saint Mary Lake, in Glacier National Park, Montana.

07GLA-0630-32pan_Lake-St-Mary
Above: Morning light strikes the peaks above Lake Saint Mary in Glacier National Park. (Panorama stitched from 3 images.)

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
Left: Mount Wilbur 9,321 feet (2,841 meters), on the trail to Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Lake, in Montana, in Glacier National Park

Below right: Mount Wilbur 9,321 feet (2,841 meters), on the trail to Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Lake, in Montana, in Glacier National Park
Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
Swiftcurrent Creek Valley. Glacier National Park, Montana.Left: Part way down from Swiftcurrent Pass, we see Bullhead Lake in Swiftcurrent Creek Valley, Glacier National Park.

 

02GLA-10-18-Hanging-Glacier.jpg

Above right: The Gem Glacier hangs on the shoulder of Mt. Gould, in Glacier National Park, Montana.

Index to Glacier National Park on Photoseek.com: Hiking Tips , Hidden Lake , Two Medicine Lake , Siyeh Pass , Baring Creek Falls , Piegan Pass , Lake Saint Mary , Ptarmigan Tunnel , Garden Wall , Upper Grinnell Lake , Swiftcurrent Valley. Image gallery of 120 Glacier National Park images from 2007.

Index to Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park:  1. Glacier NP, Montana ; 2. Waterton Lakes NP, CANADA ; 3. abstract nature patterns of Waterton-Glacier ; 4. animals & insects of Waterton-Glacier

May 30, 2008

Abstract Nature Patterns from Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park

Filed under: Canada,Montana,Travel Advice — Tom Dempsey @ 4:45 pm

Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park is a World Heritage Site containing the following two parks:

  1. Glacier National Park, Montana, USA. Image gallery of 120 Glacier National Park images from 2007.
  2. Waterton Lakes National Park, Alberta, CANADA.

These parks not only have spectacular mountains, but also have fantastic and colorful rock patterns at every scale, from inches to miles. (For more abstract patterns from around the world, see My Fine Art Gallery: Abstracts.)  The following images are highlights from “Abstract nature patterns of Waterton-Glacier” on Photoseek.com:
Rock pattern. Glacier National Park, Montana.
Above: Colorful fractured rock pattern, on the hike to Hidden Lake in Glacier National Park, Montana. One of my favorite pattern images.

Below right: Smooth exfoliating rock pattern.
02GLA-02-39-Exfoliating.jpg

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Left: Seabed ripples are fossilized in this blue rock pattern above Logan Pass, in Montana, in Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park

Below right: Cracked rock pattern above Logan Pass.
Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
02GLA-15-20-Carthew-Pass.jpg
Left: Hikers crossing Carthew Pass, Waterton Lakes National Park, Alberta, Canada.

     Below right: Red Rock Canyon, in Waterton Lakes National Park, Alberta, Canada.
Red Rock Canyon, Alberta, Canada. Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park World Heritage Site

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
Above: My boots and poles stand atop an orange rock and yellow lichen pattern, on the trail from Two Medicine Lake Campground to Cobalt Lake in Glacier National Park, Montana.

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Rock patterns above Logan Pass, in Montana, in Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Left: Colorful rocks in Cobalt Creek, Montana, Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

  Above: Baring Creek flows over sediment ripples that are fossilized into the red rock.
Click here for more…
(more…)

April 14, 2008

Washington: Tulips and snow geese of the Skagit River Delta

Filed under: Travel Advice,Washington — Tom Dempsey @ 7:17 am

Below is an excerpt from my page which describes the tulip flower fields and wintering snow geese of Skagit County, Washington ( www.photoseek.com/wa2a-usa.html ):

Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com

Left: Snow geese fill the sky in a farmer’s field on Fir Island in the Skagit River Delta.

Below right: a yellow tulip is tinged with red-orange.Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com
Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com
Left: Red tulips bloom in Skagit County, April 3, 2008.
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Below right: a yellow tulip opens wide.Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com
Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com
Left: In the Skagit River Delta in winter and spring, snow geese fuel up, bond with a mate, then fly 2500 miles to wild Wrangel Island for breeding in the Russian Arctic, with a stopover in the Fraser River Valley in British Columbia. These snow geese from Skagit County are the only snow geese that winter in North America and breed in Asia. (Reference: The Nature Conservancy)

Below right: Snow geese form a dense cloud.Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com

Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com

Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com
Skagit Valley image from photoseek.comSkagit Valley image from photoseek.com

Above right: Mount Baker rises above early yellow blooms in the tulip fields of the Skagit River Valley on April 3, 2008.

Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com
Left: Commercial white and yellow tulips bloom in Skagit County, Washington.

Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com

Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com
Skagit Valley image from photoseek.com
Click here for more Skagit County flowers and snow geese…

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March 23, 2008

Tips for visiting Alaska

Filed under: Alaska,Travel Advice,photo tips — Tom Dempsey @ 12:18 pm

Below right: The Alaska Range reflects in Summit Lake (3210 feet elevation) on the Richardson Highway.

06AK_3150-Summit-Lake-3210ft_Alaska-Range.jpg

Suggested Alaska Itinerary:

  • If you have 1 week: A great way to see Alaska in a short visit is to fly to Anchorage, rent a camper or RV, and drive for a week or more (about 600+ miles) to see everything on the Kenai Peninsula, which is a great microcosm of Alaska.
  • If you have 2 to 3 weeks: Do the above, and add a ~1200+ mile driving loop seeing Valdez, Fairbanks, & Denali National Park (red tundra fall colors in Denali reach their peak from the end of August to early September, ~350 miles one way from Anchorage). 
    • I recommend booking a side trip (off the Richardson Highway) to visit McCarthy and Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark (use the Kennecott Shuttle to avoid 120 miles round trip on a rough potholed road; although the road has improved over the years).
  • If you have 3 to 4 weeks (same as above except spend more time for hiking, relaxing, and sidetrips).
  • Alaska Time Zone = Seattle (or Pacific Time Zone) minus one hour.

Camper, Motorhome or RV Rental:

Traveling with a pickup camper or RV has distinct advantages over tenting or lodging, if your goal is to experience the great Alaskan outdoors:

  • Car + Tenting is the cheapest way to see Alaska. However, Alaska is a bit too rainy & buggy to sleep in a tent regularly (unless you are young or hardy). Tents are very exposed to the whims of weather.
  • Car + Lodging:
    • Car plus lodging costs about as much as renting an RV.
    • Disadvantages of staying in hotels/accommodation:
      • Lodging often must be reserved well in advance in popular areas of Alaska.
      • Lodging can be scarce in the beautiful areas where you may most want to experience nature, whereas RV camping or overnight parking areas are much more plentiful.
    • Advantages of camping:
      • Campground slots are very much easier to obtain spontaneously compared to finding open lodging. The only campgrounds we needed to reserve ( during our trip August 15 to September 8, 2006 ) were Teklanika (RV) and Wonder Lake (tent) in Denali NP.
      • Camping puts you in closer contact with nature than a hotel room. An RV is just as comfortable, and more convenient, than a hotel room.
      • Once you unpack your luggage into an RV, you don’t need to lug around your belongings for the rest of the trip.
  • Pickup Camper or RV: http://www.photoseek.com/06AK_7118-Steller-sea-lion_AK-Sealife-Center.jpg
    • A pickup mounted with a camper shell will take you over rougher roads to more places than a motorhome or RV.
    • A pickup camper gets much better gas mileage than an RV, but its daily rental rate can be higher than a small RV. The net cost may end up about the same for pickup camper versus RV, even in the off season.
      • Save 20 to 30% on your motorhome RV rental by renting before or after high season, which runs from about July 1 to August 15.
      • As priced in 2006, pickup campers offered no off-season price savings.
    • ClippershipMotorhomes.com gave us an excellent value RV rental in 2006: 
      • Clippership Motorhomes gives free airport pick up (907) 562-7051 or 800-421-3456. 8-5 pm every day.
      • 20 or 22-foot Economy Class $2200 for 24 days August 15 – September 8, 2006 = $90/day plus gas (includes 8% MOA tax & 3% state tax), 2400 free miles then $.15/mile; housekeeping package $15 each. Reserve with deposit $250, then upon arrival pay $250 more deposit.  All gravel roads are prohibited, though you can of course drive into gravelled campgrounds or short access roads. It only gets 9 miles per gallon of gasoline or less. Ouch!
      • Includes: Sheets, blankets, pillows, towels, pots and pans, knife, fork and spoon for each traveler, pancake turner, measuring cup, baking pan, scrubber, cooking spoons, can opener, grater, colander, paring knife, butcher knife, coffee pot, mixing bowls, pot holders, cutting board, potato peeler, broom, dust pan, water hose, level, trash can and instruction manual. Add the convenient HOUSEKEEPING PACKAGE: $15.00 per person: dishes, glasses, pitcher, kitchen towel, dish cloth, first aid kit, dish soap, paper towels, toilet paper, bath soap, toilet chemical, matches and hangers.
  • Fly to Alaska + Rent a Vehicle:
    • Flying to Anchorage and picking up your reserved vehicle saves at least 4000 miles of driving time & expense getting to Alaska from the Lower 48 States.
    • We cashed in Northwest Airline miles for free flights to Anchorage, where we rented an RV for 24 days (August 15 to September 8), which plunged us directly into the big Alaskan scenery, while avoiding two weeks of extra driving round trip from Seattle.
      • Seattle to Anchorage is 5000 miles round trip. Driving to the first Alaskan town of Tok would take 4000 miles round trip, which would have added two weeks of steady driving, campground & food expenses, plus wear and tear on our own vehicle.
      • Although the Alaskan Highway is a famous journey, much of the drive is actually monotonous forest. The time and expense saved (for not driving 4000 miles round trip to Tok) easily pays for renting an RV for a significant block of vacation time. The break even point may be 1 to 3 weeks RV rental. Driving your own vehicle from the Lower 48 can be worthwhile if staying more than a month.
  • Southeast Alaska travel tip: 
    • On a future trip to Southeast Alaska, which is significantly closer to Seattle than Anchorage, we plan to drive our own camper to Prince Rupert, Canada, from where we will ride the ferries (without our vehicle) to Juneau and back to Prince Rupert. (Bringing a car on the ferry would cost $800+ and require reservations 4-6 months in advance.) With our savings from not bringing a car, we can flexibly rent cars or take public transportation along the ferry routes. We can board ferries more spontaneously as passengers without a car. Locals say April/May has the best weather and fewer tourists.

Eagle Creek, Alaska: Female moose with two calvesRight: Female moose with two calves at Eagle Creek Campground, on the Glenn Highway, Milepost 11.6 from Anchorage.

Weather/When to visit:

  • May 10 to September 15 is generally a good time to visit most parts of Alaska.
  • Long daylight: June 21 is the longest day of the year, with 19 hours of daylight in Anchorage, 22 in Fairbanks, and 18 in Southeast Alaska. Any time between Spring and Fall equinoxes, the days are significantly longer in Alaska than at lower latitudes.
  • Peak tourist season is mid-June to mid-August. Before and after that are “shoulder season” discounts 10 – 25% at some hotels and tour operators.
  • Hiking season: Snow in high country or Arctic regions does not melt until about late June. June is “post-hole” season, so named for walking through melting patchy snow.
  • Fall colors: Peak fall colors of the red tundra in Denali are late August to early September. On the Kenai Peninsula, aspen tree yellow & gold leaf fall colors usually peak September 15-18th, a few days after Denali National Park. The Glenn Highway (from Anchorage to Glennallen) has great gold aspens against rugged mountain background. Just a few days after Kenai comes the Anchorage area’s yellow color peak, which is the last turning of leaf colors in south-central Alaska.
  • May is generally drier in Alaska, with about a 25% chance of measurable rain on the average day. Alaska gets rainier as the summer progresses. By August, the chance of rain increases to about 50% on a given day.
  • Climate zones:
    • The rainiest areas are on the ocean side of the mountain ranges.
    • In south-central Alaska‘s summer (such as in Anchorage & Homer), expect rain one third of the time, cloudy one third, and sunny one third. Peak mosquito season is the end of June and the first part of July in marshy lowlands, but no problem on breezy alpine ridges. Bugs are no problem after late July. South-central Alaska has 70% of the state’s population, the most roads and the most hiking trails. The varied climate transitions from the mild and wet southern coast, to the colder and drier interior to the north.
    • Fairbanks and the interior north of the Alaska Range have significantly sunnier weather than further south. The snow melts faster in the interior in Spring than in south-central Alaska. Early summer season has thunderstorms and forest fires. The interior of Alaska has more mosquitoes than south-central Alaska, starting in mid-June, but the bugs die away after the first frosts in late July. The best hiking is in the Alaska Range and the Yukon-Tanana uplands near Fairbanks.
    • Southeast Alaska (Juneau to Ketchikan) is the rainiest area in Alaska (with local variability). Locals say April/May has the best weather with the least rain (and fewer tourists).
    • Southwest Alaska (including Katmai National Park) is wet and windy, and stretches 1400 miles down the Alaska Peninsula and the Aleutian Islands.
  • Weather Radio: When traveling in Alaska, check weather forecasts frequently, such as by using an inexpensive NOAA weather radio, which is built into many 5-to-10-mile “walkie talkie” style radios. Or check weather on the internet. By checking the NOAA radio’s two-day weather forecast (which is surprisingly accurate if you check the latest update every 6 hours), we were able to book spectacular sunny days for our 26-Glacier College Fjord Cruise, and for our flightseeing trip over Denali starting at Talkeetna.
  • Keep your schedule flexible: Near the end of August 2006 (the beginning of our trip), a steady downpour washed out a critical section of the Parks Highway from Anchorage to Denali for 2.5 days. By reversing our planned route, the road was fixed by the time we looped through.

Bring to Alaska:

  • A NOAA weather radio (such as found in walkie talkies with 8+ mile range) or internet connection for the latest 2-day weather forecast. The most recent forecast is critical for hikers and backpackers, and is surprisingly accurate for 1-2 days out. NOAA weather radio reception is available within about 10 or 15 miles of main cities.
  • compass
  • binoculars for wildlife viewing
  • Sleep mask – even on September 1, skies are surprisingly light for 16 hours in Anchorage!
  • If mosquitoes concern you, complete your trip before they hatch in mid-June, or visit the last week in July or later when the first night frosts eliminate most insect problems. If visiting during mosquito season (mid-June to mid-July), bring DEET, which is the only proven repellent.
  • Motion sickness remedy (a prescription patch works best) for sea & air (we didn’t need it).
  • If camping overnight at Wonder Lake or elsewhere, bring camping gear: tent, stove, pots, sleeping bag, pad, backpack, safety matches, etc.
  • Hiking books:
    • 55 ways to the Wilderness in South Central Alaska, published 2002 by the Mountaineers Books. Excellent details on the best 55 hikes within about 4 hours drive of Anchorage.
    • Hiking Alaska, by Dean Littlepage, A Falcon Guide published 1997 by The Globe Pequot Press. This book is a helpful overview of the best hikes throughout Alaska.


Above: Mt. McKinley / Denali (20,320 ft) seen from the Denali Park Road near Eielson Visitor Center, accessible only by bus.  The friendly shuttle driver will stop most anywhere upon request to let riders out for photographs.
    
Mt. McKinley is only visible 1 out of 3 days. Rain falls half of the summer days, as light showers or drizzle. The least cloudy time is early morning, which requires overnight tenting at Wonder Lake (because even the earliest shuttle bus doesn’t reach Denali views until mid morning).  I was lucky to see Denali on five different days during a relatively sunny week, August 27 – Sept 3, 2006.  Photography is best on Denali National Park’s road at early or late daylight hours since Denali is backlit much of the afternoon (but it is nicely front lit from Denali State Park, which is closer to Anchorage, on the publicly accessible Parks Highway). 

Alaska Index for Photoseek.com: pages 1 ~ 2 ~ 3 ~ Alaska map ~ Travel tips

 

Map of our 2006 RV driving trip, about 2300 miles:

Seattle Aquarium, Washington: starfish, anenome, fish, octopus, clam, coral

Filed under: Travel Advice,Washington — Tom Dempsey @ 11:55 am

 0803AQU-16.jpgThe following images are highlights from my Seattle Aquarium page http://www.photoseek.com/wa1a-usa.html
Left: Ripples on the water surface distorts this view of an orange and red sea anemone at the Seattle Aquarium, Washington.

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Above right: This bivalve displays blue stripes glowing under ultraviolet light, next to some white coral, at the Seattle Aquarium, Washington.

0803AQU-51.jpgLeft: The Crescent Wrasse (Thalassoma lunare) or Moon Wrasse is a bright blue and green fish with pink and yellow features, found in the Pacific Coral Reefs. Seattle Aquarium, Washington.

Below right: This blue and brown patterned fish is native to the Pacific coral reefs.

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Left: Starfish come in red, orange, purple and magenta colors intertwine at the Seattle Aquarium, Washington. Starfish or sea stars are any echinoderms belonging to the class Asteroidea. The “star fish” usually hunt for shelled animals such as oysters and clams. They have two stomachs, one used for digestion, and the other stomach can be extended outward to engulf and digest prey much larger than its mouth. Most starfish have 5 arms, which can be regenerated if lost.

Below: The Banded Coral Shrimp (Stenopus hispidus) is a common sight on nearly every Indo-Pacific ocean reef. Although it looks like a shrimp, it is not a true shrimp. Also known as a Coral Banded Shrimp, Banded Boxer Shrimp, Banded Prawn, Barber-Pole Shrimp, or Cleaner Shrimp, it often feeds on the parasites that cooperative fish or eels allow it to pick off their bodies. Stenopus hispidus is a shrimp-like decapod crustacean, belonging to the infraorder Stenopodidea. It is a few centimetres long and has red bands around its body, and long, white antennae. The body is covered with short defensive spines. Like other decapods they can use the tail to escape backwards rapidly (the caridoid escape reaction). Stenopus hispidus is a common aquarium pet, because it removes dead tissue, algae and parasites from the tank and from larger fish. Seattle Aquarium, Washington
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Left: The Giant Pacific Octopus (Octopus dofleini) can be found along the Pacific coast from Alaska to southern California. This closeup view of octopus leg suckers is at the Seattle Aquarium, Washington.

Below: This bivalve displays blue stripes glowing under ultraviolet light, next to some coral, at the Seattle Aquarium, Washington.
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March 8, 2008

Beautiful Havasu Canyon and Falls, Supai, Arizona

Filed under: Arizona,Travel Advice — Tom Dempsey @ 4:07 pm

Below are highlights of my images for Havasu Canyon, from www.photoseek.com/swusa2.html:

Havasu Canyon flows into the Colorado River, and is part of the Grand Canyon. River rafters can hike a long rough trail up to visit Supai, but the normal access is via an 8-mile dusty horse trail from a car park at Hualapai Hilltop (or via helicopter).
     Havasupai (or Havasu ‘Baaja) means “people of the blue-green water,” and their people have tended fields in the Grand Canyon for at least 700 years. The Havasupai also lived at what is now called Indian Garden on the Bright Angel Trail in the main Grand Canyon, but they were evicted by the National Park Service in the 1920′s. Their brush shelters (wickiups) and gardens were destroyed at Indian Garden, leaving the Havasupai Tribe just 518 acres in Havasu Canyon. In 1975, a more the enlightened time, 187,500 acres of canyon and rimland were returned to the tribe. As of 2005, about 450 of the tribe’s 650 members live in the village of Supai. As of 1999, Supai is the only town in the United States which still receives its mail by mule train.
Images of Arizona from photoseek.com
Left: Havasu Canyon, Arizona: Havasu Creek plunges over Havasu Falls (100 feet high) in Havasu Canyon, on the Havasupai Indian Reservation. The beautiful color in the pools of Havasu Creek is caused by carbonate minerals settling to the bottom, turning it white, and acting as a reflector of the surrounding green and brown mossy cliffs plus the blue sky. This unique color combination creates a striking turquoise pool, and one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world.

Below right: A rainbow forms in the spray of the double plunge of Havasu Falls.
Images of Arizona from photoseek.com Images of Arizona from photoseek.com

Tom and Carol in Havasu Canyon, April 1999

Having registered for camping permission from the Havasupai Tribe a few weeks in advance (as recommended), Carol and I parked our car in the dirt lot at Hualapai Hilltop and backpacked the 8-mile dusty trail downhill into Supai Village. About 25,000 tourists visit each year, so advance reservations are recommended. We checked in at the tribal office, then hiked 2 more miles to the campground, passing the wonderful Havasu Falls, one of the most surprising desert oasis experiences in the world. We also visited the impressive Mooney Falls, a short walk further downstream. I say, “thank you very much, Havasupai people, for sharing your very special canyon with visitors.”
     To more fully experience the isolation of this desert oasis, I strongly recommend walking to Supai, instead of riding a horse or helicopter. But next time we’ll consider having the mule train carry our packs, to make the desert walk more comfortable. Helicopters also carry in people and supplies, but the loud chop-chopping roar disturbed my appreciation of this beautiful natural setting. Out of nowhere, a porta-potty suddenly flew over our heads. Helicopters repeatedly flew full porta-potties, one at a time on a very long cable, out of the heavily-used campground, for disposal elsewhere. A composting toilet would seem to be a more cost effective solution. The densely-packed and worn campground in this narrow canyon would have benefited by further restricting the number of visitors per day.

Right: Havasu Falls seen from above.

Below: Carol hikes down from the high desert rim into Havasu Canyon.

Images of Arizona from photoseek.com
Images of Arizona from photoseek.com
Left: Mooney Falls (200 ft high), was named after a miner who fell to his death here. It is located downstream of Havasu Falls on Havasu Creek, in the Havasupai Indian Reservation, Arizona.

Below right: Red cactus flower in Havasu Canyon.
99AZ-09-04-Cactus-flower.jpgClick for more… (more…)

March 3, 2008

Family travel: Canon Powershot G9 with tripod, versus Canon DSLR 40D with f/2.8L IS lens

Filed under: Canon,Hawaii,Thailand,Travel Advice,photo tips — Tom Dempsey @ 2:34 pm

Below right: This demon protects a gilded chedi (or stupa), at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew), which is a shining complex of buildings within the grounds of the Grand Palace in Bangkok, Thailand. Photograph by Carol Dempsey, using a Canon Powershot SD700 IS ELPH, which is a camera about the size of a deck of playing cards.

Photographer Tom Dempsey replies to Raul Panelo’s message at bottom March 03, 2008:

Dear Raul,

You probably already know that your skills as a photographer are much more important than the camera you choose. That being said, your high quality Canon 40D (and 20D) DSLR outfit has some important differences versus the 13-ounce Canon Powershot G9: Here are the main advantages of your excellent DSLR camera outfit

  • Prints larger than about 16 inches will be noticeably sharper and less distorted from the DSLR, versus from the Canon G9.
  • The shutter response is instantaneous on a DSLR, whereas the G9 has a slight delay of 0.4 to 0.6 seconds. (Workaround: half-press the shutter to pre-focus, then click at the right moment).
  • On the DSLR, for a given image noise/quality level, you can hand hold shots in 2 to 4 stops dimmer light using ISO 800-3200 (versus the G9 set at ISO 100-200; assuming you turn on IS image stabilization in both cameras for sharpest hand held performance). Using these settings, images may be indistinguishable in quality from DSLR versus G9, when viewed on any High Definition HD monitor or projector, or when printed less than about 12 inches in size. Your f/2.8L lenses for your Canon 40D are so good and sharp, that your personal judgement is required to determine the G9 breakeven point for print size, which I estimate at between 16 and 8 inches. Larger prints will look sharper from the Canon 40D.
  • DSLR cameras perform much better in dimmer light, because their larger lens glass diameter focuses much more light onto a sensor 6 times larger in area than in the G9.
  • Your proposed 1.4x lens extender loses a stop, but costs less than buying a new lens, and reduces bulk versus carrying an extra lens. Offhand I don’t know the actual quality difference when you extend your 70-200mm 2.8L IS by 1.4x. The tele extender might duplicate the effect (and quality?) of your Canon 75-300mm 4-5.6 IS, thus saving you extra bulk of carrying the 75-300mm when traveling.

…versus the Canon Powershot G9:

  • The G9 can work around many of its low light limitations by shooting always at ISO 100-200 (even 400 looks surprisingly good), and by mounting on a tripod, in the case of low light shots that exceed its excellent 2-4 stop hand-held “IS” capability. You may not see much difference between G9 images and DSLR images when you compare shots at ISO 100-200 and prints smaller than about 12 inches.
  • The G9 has big advantages of portability, fun factor, movie & sound recording, and good built in macro focusing down to 1 cm (very useful small macro image area 17 x 22 mm, better magnification than your DSLR lenses, unless you have a dedicated DSLR macro lens).
  • For a great value underwater camera: The $170 Waterproof Case WP-DC11 converts the Canon G9 into a high quality underwater camera for snorkeling Maui, Hawaii, Galapagos Islands, Belize, Mexico, the Caribbean Sea or other great destinations.
  • Compact cameras are great for traveling with family, because they are more portable and faster to whip out, as you juggle family gear and interact socially. (However, to capture better quality in dim light, the G9 needs a tripod about 2 to 4 f/stops sooner than DSLR cameras with APS-C size sensors, such as the Canon D40.)
  • With the G9 shooting RAW, you can capture publication quality images up to about 12 inches (maybe larger).

  • To put this discussion in perspective: using a JPEG image from the Canon SD700IS ELPH (which has image quality lower than the Canon G9), I printed one of my wife’s Bangkok Grand Palace shots 16×12 inches for display in our living room, and the quality looks the same as my own prints using better cameras! In my mind, that infers the G9 quality on par with your DSLR up to 16 inches, in good daylight shooting.

Recommended travel tripod for compact or DSLR cameras:

  • I love my travel tripod, which I have tested 2005-2008 with both small and DSLR cameras:
  • Slik “Sprint Pro GM” Tripod ($90), which weighs only 2 pounds and is great for travel, superior to other travel tripods that I’m aware of (including Velbon MAXi343E, Manfrotto, or even Gitzo tripods costing three times more).
  • For quickest on/off camera mounting, add the Manfrotto 3299 Quick Change Plate Adapter ($35, quick release).
  • The stiff aluminum legs are sufficiently stable for cameras up to 3 or 4 pounds (especially if you don’t extend the bottom leg section; or if you hang on extra weight) and have very fast locking levers (of sturdy plastic). At this good price, simply buy a new tripod if it breaks.
  • The Slik “Sprint Pro GM” tripod rises to eye level (64 inches), collapses to 19 inches (or 16 inches if you remove the quick-release ball head). The metal ball head swings 90 degrees each way, to two vertical positions, and turns freely around, all tightened with one effective lever. Legs can optionally splay out independently in 3 locking positions down to 6.4 inches off the ground. For macro, the center column can be reversed underneath for great shooting flexibility at ground level, and unscrews into a short section (saving 3.5 ounces). Leg tips convert from spike (outdoor) to rubber (indoor use) with a simple lockable twist.

Click here to see Tom Dempsey’s current and past travel photography equipment: www.photoseek.com/camera-history.html

  • My own travel preference is to carry the lightweight Nikon D40X (with image quality equal to the more expensive Nikon D200) mounted with just one do-everything lens, the Nikkor AF-S DX VR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED (2-4 stops hand held vibration reduction), which makes a good quality 38-ounce camera+lens system carried in a chest bag.
  • Compared to using a Canon G9, this Nikon D40X system eliminates most tripod use, shoots faster in dimmer light, shoots a wider angle and longer telephoto (27mm-300 equivalent Nikkor lens; versus 35mm-210 for Canon G9) and captures better quality, sufficient for me to sell 24 inch or larger prints (when viewed at 24 inches or further).
  • The 13-ounce G9 is still very attractive as a camera for family travel and 16-inch prints. I would not mind having a G9!
  • More info, compacts versus DSLR: http://www.photoseek.com/camera-buy-table.html

Have a great trip in Maui!
– Tom Dempsey, photographer, Seattle, Washington
http://www.photoseek.com/

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Above, Tom answers the following questions … From Raul Panelo, March 03, 2008 To: tom@photoseek.com
Subject: Travel Advice Needed

Hi Tom! First of all, thank you for sharing your expertise in travel photography. I have learned a lot from your site http://www.photoseek.com/ I need advice on what equipment to bring on my upcoming vacation to Maui. I currently have the following: Canon 20D, Canon 40D cameras; lenses: Canon 16-35mm 2.8L, Canon 24-70mm 2.8L, Canon 70-200mm 2.8L IS, Canon 50mm 1.4, Canon 75-300mm 4-5.6 IS. I want to shoot landscapes, people and macro shots. After reading your website, I’m now thinking of buying the Canon G9 for a take it anywhere camera. Do you think this is a good choice for me? I’m also thinking of buying the 1.4x extender for the 70-200mm to extend my range. Lastly, I am looking for the best tripod to use with either my SLRs or the G9 if I end up buying it. I’m traveling with my wife and 2 daughters ages 6 & 11. I’d like to travel as light as possible but at the same time have the ability to capture wonderful images. Thanks in advance for your help. — Raul Panelo

———– Reply from Raul March 03, 2008: —————————————
Tom, Thank you so much for your quick and detailed response. Based on your answer, I’ll definitely take my SLR in case I capture something I’d like to print and hang on the wall later. I’ll also check your tripod recommendation. The price on the Sprint Pro GM is definitely reasonable given your description. You may post my question and your answer on your blog. Your blog is a great resource for many and if your answer helped me, I’m sure many more will benefit. Thanks again for being so generous with your expertise. — Raul

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