Photo/Travel Blog by Tom Dempsey – What's New

January 8, 2009

2008 Canadian Rocky Mountains highlights: Banff, Jasper, Robson, Yoho, Revelstoke NP

Filed under: Canada, Travel Advice, Uncategorized — Tom Dempsey @ 10:31 am

The Canadian Rockies rival any mountains in the world for breathtaking beauty. In 2008, at Berg Lake in Mount Robson Provincial Park, Carol and I fondly revisited our first international backpacking destination together from 1995. Friends joined us on this fun adventure July 21-August 7, 2008, including hikes in Banff, Jasper, Yoho and Revelstoke National Parks. We returned with wonderful experiences and memorable photographs.

Fog clears from Mount Robson (3954 meters / 12,972 feet), part of the Rainbow Range.  Berg Glacier and Berg Lake, Mount Robson Provincial Park of British Columbia, Canada

Fog clears from Mount Robson (3954 meters / 12,972 feet), part of the Rainbow Range. Berg Glacier and Berg Lake, Mount Robson Provincial Park of British Columbia, Canada

The following Canadian Rocky Mountains parks comprise a spectacular World Heritage Area registered by UNESCO in 1984: Banff National Park, Jasper National Park, Kootenay National Park, Yoho National Park, Hamber Provincial Park, Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, and Mount Robson Provincial Park.

A waterfall plunges from Snowbird Pass, above the toe of the Robson Glacier, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada. (Panorama stitched from 5 images.
A waterfall plunges from Snowbird Pass, above the toe of the Robson Glacier, beneath Mount Robson, in Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia, Canada. (Panorama stitched from 5 images.
A yellow canoe crosses blue-green Moraine Lake, in Valley of the Ten Peaks, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada.

A yellow canoe crosses blue-green Moraine Lake, in Valley of the Ten Peaks, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada.

Angel Glacier (above), Cavell Glacier (below), Cavell Pond and evergreen trees on Mount Edith Cavell, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada.

Angel Glacier (above), Cavell Glacier (below), Cavell Pond and evergreen trees on Mount Edith Cavell, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada.

Roadside pink flowers at Glacier National Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Roadside pink flowers at Glacier National Park, British Columbia, Canada.

Monashee Mountains (left), Columbia River (center), Selkirk Mountains (right), seen from Parapets Viewpoints, atop Mount Revelstoke National Park, British Columbia, Canada

Monashee Mountains (left), Columbia River (center), Selkirk Mountains (right), seen from Parapets Viewpoints, atop Mount Revelstoke National Park, British Columbia, Canada

Yoho Valley, seen from the Iceline Trail, in Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada. Center right is Takakkaw Falls. (Panorama stitched from 16 images; scroll right to see wide image on small monitors.)

Yoho Valley, seen from the Iceline Trail, in Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada. Center right is Takakkaw Falls. (Panorama stitched from 16 images; scroll right to see wide image on small monitors.)

The Canadian Rocky Mountains span across the following 13 pages on Photoseek.com:

The Columbia Mountains are comprised of four Ranges, located within the Rocky Mountains complex say USA geographers, but outside the Rockies say Canadian geographers:

June 1, 2008

Hiking tips for Glacier National Park, Montana

Filed under: Canada, Montana, Travel Advice — Tom Dempsey @ 3:01 pm

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Above: Sinopah Mountain (8271 feet or 2521 meters) reflects in Pray Lake at sunrise, in Montana, in the Two Medicine area of Glacier National Park. (Panorama stitched from 4 images.)

Below are highlights from my images from Glacier National Park, Montana.For more images, see Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park on Photoseek.com:  1. Glacier NP, Montana (2007 trip image gallery) ; 2. Waterton Lakes NP, CANADA ; 3. abstract nature patterns of Waterton-Glacier ; 4. animals & insects of Waterton-Glacier 

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Left: Baring Creek tumbles over red and yellow rocks, in Montana, in Glacier National Park

Below right: This “Jammer”, a Glacier National Park Historic Red Bus, was built by the White Motor Company in the 1930’s, then rebuilt in 2001 to run on propane. A fleet of these vintage motor coaches provide tours and shuttle services in the park.

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
Glacier National Park offers some of the best mountain scenery in the world, ripe for nature walks, day hikes, and backpacking trips. I am delighted by the fantastic and colorful rock patterns at every scale, from inches to miles, throughout the park. Your chances are very good for seeing wild animals such as mountain goats, deer, marmots, ptarmigan.

Avalanche Gorge, Glacier National Park, Montana

 

Right: Water cuts through the mossy red rocks of Avalanche Gorge, Glacier National Park, Montana.

Glacier National Park, Montana: Upper Grinnell Lake overlook
Above: Upper Grinnell Lake Overlook, Grinnell Glacier, and Mt. Gould. Glacier National Park, Montana.

Mountain goat, Bearhat Mountain, Hidden Lake. Glacier National Park, Montana.

Left: Mountain goat, Bearhat Mountain, Hidden Lake. Glacier National Park, Montana.

Below right: Snow naturally frosts the trees at Hidden Lake, in Montana, in Glacier National Park.

 
Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Hiking Tips for Glacier and Waterton National Parks

Recommended hiking guidebook: “Glacier-Waterton International Peace Park”, from The Mountaineers Books (2003 edition).

Below right: Sunrise at Lake Saint Mary, and Wild Goose Island, in Montana, in Glacier National Park.
Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Weather

If Logan Pass is closed, driving around the south end of Glacier NP on Highway 2 takes only an extra 30 minutes, by way of East Glacier, to West Glacier.

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

 

Below right: Baring Creek flows over sediment ripples that are fossilized into the red rock.

Campground tips

  • Hot Showers are available at:   Rising Sun Campground Store;  Apgar West Entrance KOA;  St. Mary Lake KOA;  adjacent to Many Glacier Campground at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn; Rising Sun Inn (6 miles west of St. Mary Visitor’s Center, & 5 miles west of St Mary Campground);  Waterton Park townsite campground;   and others outside the park.
  • Per site limits are 2 vehicles, 8 people, & 2 tents (where space is available) in Glacier NP.
  • After Labor Day, all Glacier NP campgrounds are “first come first served” (non-reservable) campgrounds — arriving between 10am-1:30pm very likely gets a site. Check out time is 12:00 noon (re-register by 11:30 am).
  • Camping along Going-to-the-Sun Road:
    • Rising Sun Campground (on Lake McDonald) is open thru Sept 17, 2007. Adjacent to the campground is a camp store, a casual restaurant, and token operated showers (1 shower stall for men, 1 for women). Flush toilets; dump station. $20. In August 2007, it usually filled up after 6:00pm. 
    • Saint Mary campground, $23. Flush toilets; dump station, open 5/25 – 9/23/07; first come first served after Sept 3 (sites are reservable June 1 through September 3).
    • Campgrounds near Lake McDonald / West Glacier:
      • Apgar Campground (rarely fills up)
      • Fish Creek campground is closed after Sept 4, 2007. Reservable in summer, but usually doesn’t fill up.
      • Sprague Creek Campground) is open thru Sept 17. $20. Flush toilets.
      • Avalanche Campground is closed after Sept 4.
  • Many Glacier Campground open thru Sept 23, then primitive (waterless) thru Sept 29. $20. Flush toilets; dump station.  Filled up most days from 2 to 7:00pm in August 2007. Public showers & laundry are located behind Swiftcurrent Motor Inn’s Registration building. 3 shower stalls for men, 4 for women.
  • Two Medicine Lake Campground:  generally shaded by trees, some privacy. Open thru Sept 23. $20. No showers.
  • Glacier NP campgrounds, current filling status & details:  home.nps.gov/applications/glac/cgstatus/cgstatus.cfm
  • Plus numerous RV parks outside the National Park, with full facilities, such as the towns of West Glacier, East Glacier, & St Mary:
    • Polson / Flathead Lake KOA (800) 562-2130
    • West Glacier KOA (800) 562-3313 
    • St. Mary / East Glacier KOA  (800) 562-1504

Right: Rockwell Falls on Cobalt Creek, on the hike to Cobalt Lake, in the Two Medicine Lake area of Glacier National Park.

Day Hikes               

Check trail status at: www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/trailstatusreports.htm
Tom’s PRIORITY KEY for hikes below:   ***best.   **excellent.   *good if you have extra time. In addition to hikes below, many short hikes are available, with waterfalls, views, geology and so forth. Rainy day activities include waterfall hikes, games, or a good book.

West Glacier area
  • ** Bowman Lake, Numa Ridge Lookout (11.4 mi round trip, 2935 ft). “Magnificent grandeur of Bowman Valley & jade colored Bowman Lake…”  Drive 21 miles from Apgar to Polebridge, via Camas Road, to the “Outside North Fork Road” of which 11 miles are bumpy gravel. (Don’t take the “Inside Road”, which is very slow & bumpy, almost 4wd). From Polebridge, drive 6 miles gravel road to the trailhead at Bowman Lake Campground.
Two Medicine Lake area
  • ** Upper Two Medicine Lake (9.4 miles round trip, 370 feet gain)
  • * Cobalt Lake (11.4 miles round trip, 1400 feet gain) good viewpoints, attractive Rockwell Falls, colorful rocks, beautiful lake, beaver ponds, meadows. With extra energy, hike Two Medicine Pass (4.4 miles round trip, 830 feet, from Cobalt Lake) for “commanding view” of neighboring Paradise Park and Park Creek drainage.
  • Short hikes:
    • Running Eagle Falls (0.6 miles round trip)
    • Paradise Point (1.2 miles round trip) scenic peninsula that juts into Two Medicine Lake
    • Aster Falls (2.4 miles round trip)
Going-to-the-Sun Road area
  • *** Siyeh Pass (10.3 miles traverse one way with shuttle, 2390 up, 3300 down) (or 9.4 mi round trip without shuttle, 2390 feet gain). High alpine scenery.  Open 8/9/07.   Or even better to hike the following:
  • ***  Piegan Pass (13 miles traverse one way with shuttle, 1720 feet up) via Grinnell Lake & Josephine Lake to Swiftcurrent Lake trailhead. Same trailhead as Siyeh Pass, at Siyeh Bend.
  • * Otokomi Lake (10 mi round trip, 1900 ft) Deep red rocks, green forest, colorful scenery. Start at Rising Sun Campground.  Open 8/9/07.
  • ** Gunsight Lake (12.6 miles round trip; 1700 feet gain): popular day hike. Start at Jackson Glacier turnout, 4.9 miles east of Logan Pass. “Views of glaciers and mountains fill the horizon.”
  • *** Hidden Lake (6 mi round trip, or shorter if you don’t descend to lake, 1200 ft). We hiked this in 2002 — one of our favorite hikes in the world — well worth hiking again, this time in blue sky weather. “The parking lot at Logan Pass usually fills between the hours of 10:00am to 2:00pm, though this can vary during peak weekends.” Logan Pass (6,646 feet) is 32 miles from the west entrance and 18 miles from the east entrance. 
  • *** Swiftcurrent Pass (15.2 miles one way, backpacked in two days, 1400 feet gain, car shuttle) via Garden Wall (which can also be hiked 11.8 mi, 800 ft, one way with shuttle; plus 1200-ft, 2-mile side trip to spectacular Grinnel Lake overlook) “If you just have one day in the park, hike this”. Swiftcurrent Pass can also be day hiked 1 to 15 miles round trip, from zero or 3500 feet gain. Hiking up 2300 feet gains you a sufficiently good view.

Mountain goat, Hidden Lake, Glacier National ParkRight: A goat shows his teeth above Hidden Lake (see more: Waterton-Glacier animals).

Many Glacier Campground area
  • *** Iceberg Lake (9.4 miles RT, 1220 ft) (see also Ptarmigan Tunnel) Ice bergs in milky blue lake below 3000-foot cliffs. TRAIL OPEN – 8/8/07.  4.8 miles roun trip to junction above Ptarmigan Falls, plus 4.6 miles RT to Iceberg Lake.
  • ** Ptarmigan Tunnel (11.2 miles RT, 2315 ft) (see also Iceberg Lake) Fun tunnel, spectacular scenery. 4.8 miles round trip to junction above Ptarmigan Falls, plus 5.2 miles round trip to Tunnel.
  • *** Cracker Lake (11.2 mi RT, 1140 ft) Most eye-catching turquoise lake in park; 3000-foot cliffs; nice waterfalls. TRAIL OPEN from Cracker Flats to Cracker Lake 8/2/07. 
  • *** Grinnel Glacier (7.6 miles with boat rt, 11 miles without, 1700 ft) Gets close to the glacier, plus outstanding scenery. Open 7/13/07. Or hike Grinnel Lake, best via Piegan Pass traverse (above).
Waterton Lakes NP, CANADA (bring USA passport)
  • ** Carthew Traverse (12 miles one way, 2300 ft, car shuttle) We loved this so much in 2002, we may hike it again. High alpine lakes, meadows, waterfalls. (Stays within Canada; no boat required.)
  • * Bertha Lake (8.6 mi rt, 1542 ft) “Beautiful subalpine lake”. Falls.
  • * Goat Lake (8 mi, 984 ft rt) “Pretty area”. This trail starts at the exceptionally colorful Red Rock Canyon (which has a nice short nature trail, seen in 2002).
  • Goat Haunt (2-12 miles round trip, 1000 ft gain). Requires boat ride on Waterton Lakefrom Canada into USA (& back). Bring USA passports. In 2002, this boat ride was not very scenic in the opinion of Carol and I — * you probably need to hike or backpack into the mountains for better views. (Must get backcountry permit in Glacier NP, not Waterton.) The commercial boat (403) 859-2362 down Waterton Lake (Canada) to Goat Haunt, USA, may be cancelled, but other boats may run. Must leave Waterton dock by 4pm sailing to enable check in to US customs at Goat Haunt between 9am-5:30pm. Click here for latest Goat Haunt trail info from Glacier NP. At Goat Haunt you can do any or all of the following:
    • Day hikes from Goat Haunt: several “excellent hikes” 2-12 miles, and/or
    • camp overnight at open-sided shelters at the Goat Haunt boat dock, without having to carry a pack, or
    • backpack from Goat Haunt: Lake Francis 12.4 miles round trip, 1000 ft, plus optional 8 mile rt day extension to Brown Pass where “views are tremendous”

Backpacking

Check weather and reserve backcountry campsites at 8:00am, one day in advance, at the following offices: St. Mary Visitor Center, Two Medicine Ranger Station, Many Glacier RS, Polebridge RS, or Apgar Visiter Center. Popular campsites may be hard to get. Backpacking permit fees = $5 per person per night in 2007. Advance reservation fee ($30) is waived if reserved less than 24 hours in advance.

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Left: Glaciers at the headwaters of Boulder Creek Canyon, seen from above Siyeh Pass, Glacier National Park, Montana

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Above right: Sexton Glacier clings to the north face of Going-to-the-Sun Mountain, and melts into Baring Creek, flowing into Saint Mary Lake, in Glacier National Park, Montana.

07GLA-0630-32pan_Lake-St-Mary
Above: Morning light strikes the peaks above Lake Saint Mary in Glacier National Park. (Panorama stitched from 3 images.)

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
Left: Mount Wilbur 9,321 feet (2,841 meters), on the trail to Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Lake, in Montana, in Glacier National Park

Below right: Mount Wilbur 9,321 feet (2,841 meters), on the trail to Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Lake, in Montana, in Glacier National Park
Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
Swiftcurrent Creek Valley. Glacier National Park, Montana.Left: Part way down from Swiftcurrent Pass, we see Bullhead Lake in Swiftcurrent Creek Valley, Glacier National Park.

 

02GLA-10-18-Hanging-Glacier.jpg

Above right: The Gem Glacier hangs on the shoulder of Mt. Gould, in Glacier National Park, Montana.

Index to Glacier National Park on Photoseek.com: Hiking Tips , Hidden Lake , Two Medicine Lake , Siyeh Pass , Baring Creek Falls , Piegan Pass , Lake Saint Mary , Ptarmigan Tunnel , Garden Wall , Upper Grinnell Lake , Swiftcurrent Valley. Image gallery of 120 Glacier National Park images from 2007.

Index to Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park:  1. Glacier NP, Montana ; 2. Waterton Lakes NP, CANADA ; 3. abstract nature patterns of Waterton-Glacier ; 4. animals & insects of Waterton-Glacier

May 30, 2008

Abstract Nature Patterns from Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park

Filed under: Canada, Montana, Travel Advice — Tom Dempsey @ 4:45 pm

Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park is a World Heritage Site containing the following two parks:

  1. Glacier National Park, Montana, USA. Image gallery of 120 Glacier National Park images from 2007.
  2. Waterton Lakes National Park, Alberta, CANADA.

These parks not only have spectacular mountains, but also have fantastic and colorful rock patterns at every scale, from inches to miles. (For more abstract patterns from around the world, see My Fine Art Gallery: Abstracts.)  The following images are highlights from “Abstract nature patterns of Waterton-Glacier” on Photoseek.com:
Rock pattern. Glacier National Park, Montana.
Above: Colorful fractured rock pattern, on the hike to Hidden Lake in Glacier National Park, Montana. One of my favorite pattern images.

Below right: Smooth exfoliating rock pattern.
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Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Left: Seabed ripples are fossilized in this blue rock pattern above Logan Pass, in Montana, in Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park

Below right: Cracked rock pattern above Logan Pass.
Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
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Left: Hikers crossing Carthew Pass, Waterton Lakes National Park, Alberta, Canada.

     Below right: Red Rock Canyon, in Waterton Lakes National Park, Alberta, Canada.
Red Rock Canyon, Alberta, Canada. Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park World Heritage Site

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
Above: My boots and poles stand atop an orange rock and yellow lichen pattern, on the trail from Two Medicine Lake Campground to Cobalt Lake in Glacier National Park, Montana.

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Rock patterns above Logan Pass, in Montana, in Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com
Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

Left: Colorful rocks in Cobalt Creek, Montana, Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park

Glacier National Park, Montana image from photoseek.com

  Above: Baring Creek flows over sediment ripples that are fossilized into the red rock.
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February 27, 2008

What is my favorite country to visit in the world?

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Above: The Panekiri Bluff trail offers pretty views through beech trees to Lake Waikaremoana, in Te Urewera National Park, North Island, New Zealand.
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Above: A Maori woman blows a conch horn, at Tamaki Maori Village (link to their site), a well-done cultural re-creation near Rotorua, North Island, New Zealand.

Dear Tobias,
You ask a great question, “what is my most favorite beautiful country to visit?”

I think New Zealand is my current favorite, because of its compact variety of sights, easily accessible by car, foot, bicycle, airplane, boat and jetboat. Within short travel distances, New Zealand has exceptional alpine scenery, mountains, glaciers, fjords, rain forests, wet areas, dry areas, volcanoes, hot springs, spectacular varied seacoasts, unique birds and vegetation, excellent hiking trail system with good huts (refugios), comfortable lodging of great variety & value (you can choose kitchens & bathrooms to be private or shared), very friendly people, active native Maori culture, excellent law, order, & safety, and no language barrier for English speakers. Fully 30% of New Zealand is preserved in parkland, very attractive for wilderness lovers. 75% of New Zealand’s plants are found nowhere else.

Argentina is also very beautiful, with much variety, and my wife and I want to return to explore the Cerro Fitz Roy area again, tango in Buenos Aires, and visit other areas. Argentina is much bigger than New Zealand, and the visitor must take more travel time to get between sights, such as from Patagonia to Iguassu Falls (where I haven’t visited yet, due to distance and time).

Similarly, Canada and the United States are very large with some amazing sights, from Yellowstone, Wyoming, to Utah, to Washington, to Alaska, to Hawaii. Much travel time and internal airfare is usually required to see the best features of big countries (such as Australia).

I love mountains everywhere — each range has its own beauty. Trains and lifts make the stunning Swiss Alps the easiest mountains to visit, plus you experience long-preserved cultural traditions. The mountains of Norway endeared me with their charm, culture & history. The Himalaya in Nepal impressed me with soaring summits & unique cultures. The Andes (Peru, Chile, Argentina) rival the Himalaya with great size, and on their slopes thrive traditional cultures such as the Quechua people, the direct descendants of the Inca.

By the way, Tobias, your English is very good, much better than my Spanish.

- Tom Dempsey, photographer, Seattle, WA      www.photoseek.com

I wrote this in response to the following question in 2007 from Tobias Torres from Argentina:

Hi tom
my name is Tobias Torres and i am from Argentine and the other day i was talking with my mother and we had different points of view about what is the best country to visit in the world and you know many of the most beautiful countries in the world so i want to know what is your favorite country in the world to visit, the most beautiful, with the best view.
Well in my opinion my favorite country is New Zealand and my mother says that it is Argentine.
Thank you very much for your time and i am hoping that you will answer this e-mail if you have time, thanks you anyways and sorry for my poor level of english.    Good Luck,
Tobias

07NZ_7237_Red_Crater_1886m.jpg
Above: Hikers descend from Red Crater on the 10-mile Tongariro Crossing, in Tongariro National Park, New Zealand’s first national park. Tongariro was gifted by a Maori chief in 1887, then legislated as a National Park in 1894, and later acknowledged by UNESCO as one of the 24 mixed cultural and natural World Heritage Sites. The volcanoes in this image are: Mount Ruapehu (far left; 2797 meters or 9177 feet; last erupted in 2006), Mount Ngauruhoe (upper middle; 2291 meters or 7516 feet elevation; last erupted in 1975), and Red Crater (foreground right; 1886 meters; last erupted 1926). Geologically speaking, both Mount Ngauruhoe and Red Crater are vents of Mount Tongariro.

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