For travellers, I suggest a camera which is compact, lightweight, high-quality and digital (not film). I have researched far and wide, and share my conclusions in my “Table of Best Travel Cameras”. From these I have picked my own equipment to photograph my portfolio shown on photoseek.com.

Image above right: Small digital cameras such as the shirt-pocket-sized Canon SD700 IS can capture great macro shots like this image of a Glacier Lily, in Washington.      The Canon SD700 IS was upgraded to the Canon SD850 IS (and wide angle sibling SD870 IS). For the same size and weight, you can capture even better quality images from the inexpensive Fujifilm FinePix”F series”: F31fd, F50fd, or F100fd.

Best camera reviewers

• Table of Best Travel Cameras = lists what I consider as the best lightweight cameras for travel (with detailed specifications).
• dpreview.com = is my favorite camera review site. Camera features are described in excruciating detail and compared to selected contemporary cameras. For the best summary, read the “Conclusion” on the last page of the Review for each camera, and look for a “Highly Recommended” rating.
• imaging-resource.com = conveniently compares image quality of two cameras side by side, using 100% pixel view of identical images, one of the best ways to distinguish between cameras. All camera features are described.
• steves-digicams.com = lists “best cameras” by type. All camera features are described.
• dcresource.com = compares competing cameras by battery life, camera bulk/volume, and weight. All camera features are described.
• Consumer Reports (CR) magazine gives concise, well organized reviews of consumer digital cameras, from compact to SLR (but online version requires a fee). For example, in the July 2007 printed edition, the camera tables list relative ratings for the most important camera features: “Picture Quality”, battery life, shutter lag, next shot delay, and price. The tables list which cameras support the following often-desireable features: image stabilization; zoom starting at 28mm wide angle; manual controls; and AA size batteries. Your local library may carry this respected independent magazine that accepts no advertising. Regular updates.

Best Camera Sellers

• www.Pricegrabber.com =  compares camera & accessory prices across dozens of competing USA companies, along with customer service rankings and user reviews. Describes basic features. This is the best way to comparison shop. I only shop at companies ranked here with a “Seller Rating” of 4 to 5 stars and at least 400 votes. The best prices for accessories (including the cost of shipping) are usually at a company different than the camera seller.
• B&H Photo = offers excellent camera prices and reliable service, with a huge inventory, with no sales tax if you live outside of New York state.
• www.butterflyphoto.com = a smaller company which offers excellent camera prices and reliable service, with no sales tax if you live outside of New Jersey.

An Overview of Available Camera Styles

Below, I survey most camera types, starting with best image quality at #1 and ending with most compact camera at #5. Despite the ability of bigger cameras (#1 and #2) to make larger sharper prints, most consumers will be satisfied with 12-inch prints from small cameras (#4 or #5). As an active outdoor photographer who wants big print quality for a reasonable price, I use a DSLR style camera with lightweight body, #3.

Image above right by Carol Dempsey, using the shirt-pocket-sized Canon SD700 IS: This demon is at the bottom of a gilded chedi (or stupa), at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew), which is a shining complex of buildings within the grounds of the Grand Palace in Bangkok, Thailand.

1. Professional Medium & Large Format cameras:  capture the best quality images; but are very expensive and heavy, with slower workflow.
   • Advantages: At poster size (larger than 24 inches, or 61 centimeters), the prints can be noticeably sharper than from the smaller camera types (#2-5 below). “Medium format” digital cameras capture at least twice the light area as digital “full-frame sensor” SLR cameras (#2).
   • Disadvantages: The massive equipment, including a heavy tripod, is difficult to carry on the trail away from a car. Medium/large format film costs dearly to develop and scan. And you will only notice a quality difference versus DSLR style cameras (#2-3 below) when examining the print closer than its longer dimension. You can also skip the film and mount an digital back on your medium or large format camera for quicker workflow, but at great expense. These highly specialized cameras cannot capture movies or record sound.
2. Full-frame sensor DSLR cameras:  capture excellent quality images with fast workflow; but are very expensive and bulky.
   • “SLR” style cameras have a moveable mirror letting the viewfinder see through the lens. The following are excellent Digital SLR (DSLR) cameras:
     • Nikon D3 (FX format)
     • Canon EOS 5D, or pricier Canon EOS 1D.
     • In place of a digital sensor, older SLR cameras used 35mm film, which I no longer recommend for travel.
   • Advantages: DSLR work flow and feedback are much quicker than for film cameras. Full frame sensors measure about 36 x 24 mm), and gather light in twice the area of APS-C size sensors (below).
   • Disadvantages: This very expensive camera with lens will easily exceed 64 ounces (or 1.8 kilograms) — a heavy commitment to quality. The full frame sensor requires much bigger, heavier & more expensive lenses, versus smaller APS-C cameras (#3 below). DSLR cameras do not capture movies or record sound.
3. APS-C size sensor DSLR cameras:   take great quality images using lighter weight bodies and faster workflow.
   • As of April 2008, the best value, lightweight DSLR cameras are:
     • Nikon D60 (or earlier Nikon D40X), and
     • Canon EOS 450D / Rebel XSi (or earlier 400D/XTi).
   • Advantages: These DSLR systems are a great value for travel, backpacking and general use. They can make great poster sized prints that impress most people (see “maximum print size discussion“). A DSLR with an APS-C sized sensor (about 22 x 15 mm) costs less, and supports lighter-weight lenses “designed for digital”, with image stabilization (such as Nikon/Nikkor DX lenses with VR vibration reduction; Canon EF-S lenses with IS image stabilization; or Sigma DC lenses with OS Optical Stabilization).
     • Image stabilization has greatly reduced my tripod use, and jump-started my creativity. My Nikon D40X DSLR system (38 ounces including good 18-200 mm VR lens) captures better quality images than my former Nikon N70 camera system shooting excellent 35-mm Fujichrome Velvia 50 film.
   • Disadvantages: DSLR cameras do not capture movies or record sound. Most consumers consider the above DSLR style cameras as too large and expensive (despite their gain in focus speed and low light performance), and prefer smaller cameras, below. 
4. Non-SLR style cameras:  take very good images, from bodies cheaper and smaller than DSLR cameras; but usually focus slower, and perform worse in low light.
   • The best non-SLR: 
     • Fujifilm FinePix S100FS camera (new 2/2008) is much cheaper than a DSLR and offers an “all-in-one solution” weighing 34 ounces, with 28-400mm equivalent 14x zoom, with lens-shift image stabilization (improving handheld shooting in 1.3 stops dimmer light); 1 cm focus Super Macro; flip down 2.5 inch LCD; RAW mode; and excellent 2/3-inch Super CCD HR sensor. You can correct its bad chromatic aberrations using third-party software on the RAW files. Otherwise the camera offers impressively sharp images, surprisingly similar up to ISO 800 compared with the Nikon D60 or Canon Rebel XSi DSLR.
   • Advantages: Non-SLR cameras offer a compact, all-in-one photography solution. They can make respectable 18 inch or smaller prints, can capture movies and nice macro shots, and display a live view on the LCD.
   • The “best” 18x superzoom camera: 
     • In compact cameras, an “18x optical zoom” can hurt image quality throughout the zoom versus cameras having smaller zoom ranges such as 12x or 6x.
     • That being said, the Panasonic FZ18 (28-504 mm lens with IS [Image Stabilization]; 15 ounces) is the best 18x superzoom compact camera as of March 2008. The Panasonic FZ18 beats the competing Fujifilm FinePix S8000fd (27-486 mm IS lens; 18 ounces), which in turn beats the Olympus SP-560UZ. Unfortunately, all of these 18x zoom cameras sacrifice quality throughout the zoom range, versus a 6x to 12x zoom camera…
     • Instead of an 18x zoom, consider the 13-ounce Panasonic FZ8, which offers a great value 12x IS zoom lens. The Panasonic FZ8 is not only physically smaller and cheaper than the 18x superzoom cameras, but captures better image quality. Simply crop images to somewhat extend the telephoto range.
     • Also consider the 13-ounce Canon Powershot G9, which has a shorter zoom of 6x with IS, and costs more, but captures significantly better image quality than the Panasonic FZ8, mostly due to a larger sensor. Small cameras generally must trade off image quality to pack a bigger zoom into a given small box. The 13-ounce Canon Powershot G9 wins the quality sweet spot, versus any 6x (or greater) zoom IS camera of up to 18 ounces.
5. Small cameras from 7 to 13 ounces, fitting into your pocket or purse:  take surprisingly good quality still images, movies and macro.
   • If you can afford the best 13-ounce camera, get the Canon Powershot G9, which can fit in a large pocket; has a 6x zoom with IS, 35-210mm equivalent; RAW mode; good 1/1.7″ CCD sensor. 
     • Or, to save some money, consider the similar quality 13-ounce Canon A650 IS (which adds a handy flip-out LCD; has the same 1/1.7″ sensor & 6x zoom to capture the same JPG quality; but lacks RAW mode).
   • For best absolute image quality in a subcompact size, try the inexpensive 7-ounce Fujifilm FinePix F series: the FinePix F100fd (new 1/2008) has a stabilized 5x zoom 28-140mm “equivalent”; 5 centimeter macro; great 1/1.6-inch Super CCD HR sensor; new wide dynamic range; and image quality rivalling the larger Canon G9.
     • Or consider the earlier Fujifilm FinePix F50fd (with 35-105mm “equivalent” zoom and 1/1.6″ sensor; with image stabilization; equals image quality of Canon G9), or the equally good F31fd earlier version (without stabilization), which rivals the image quality of the larger Canon G7 at a much lower price.
   • For another good price value at 7-ounces, consider the Canon Powershot A720 IS, or earlier A710 IS.
   • For a slimmer camera, also in the 7-ounce class (with slightly lower quality images), consider the Canon Powershot SD850 IS (35-140mm “equivalent” zoom). Or if you want a wider angle zoom, with a 28-105mm “equivalent”, try the sibling camera Canon Powershot SD870 IS (review) or the earlier SD800 IS. 
   • In summary, the best tiny cameras (from 7 to 13 ounces) are in the Fujifilm FinePix F series; or in the Canon Powershot series with Image Stabilization (IS). Also consider any camera reviewed as “Highly Recommended” on www.dpreview.com.

Below is an excerpt from my page which describes the tulip flower fields and wintering snow geese of Skagit County, Washington ( www.photoseek.com/wa2a-usa.html ):

Left: Snow geese fill the sky in a farmer’s field on Fir Island in the Skagit River Delta.

Below right: a yellow tulip is tinged with red-orange.

Left: Red tulips bloom in Skagit County, April 3, 2008.
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Below right: a yellow tulip opens wide.

Left: In the Skagit River Delta in winter and spring, snow geese fuel up, bond with a mate, then fly 2500 miles to wild Wrangel Island for breeding in the Russian Arctic, with a stopover in the Fraser River Valley in British Columbia. These snow geese from Skagit County are the only snow geese that winter in North America and breed in Asia. (Reference: The Nature Conservancy)

Below right: Snow geese form a dense cloud.

Left: Commercial white and yellow tulips bloom in Skagit County, Washington.

Click here for more Skagit County flowers and snow geese…

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The following excerpt is from my recently updated Turkey page, www.photoseek.com/Turkey.html :

Ephesus

The nearby sanctuary of Cybelle/Artemis helped the town of Ephesus (or Efes in Turkish) become a prosperous port and cultural center by 600 BCE. Greek goddess Artemis was akin to the Phrygian goddess Cybele, the ancient Anatolian mother goddess worshiped since Neolithic times. At various times, Ephesus was controlled by Lydia (King Croesus), Persians, Hellenists (Ancient Greeks from Athens), and Alexander the Great (334 BCE). Eventually Ephesus became capital (population 250,000) of the Roman Province of Asia Minor (ancient Greek Anatolia, or modern Turkish Anadolu). Ephesus declined from greatness as its port silted, and the city center moved to nearby Selçuk.

Left: Ephesus: The Library of Celsus, built 114 CE, was named in honor of a Roman governor of Asia Minor (the area known as Anatolia in Greek). [Published in the Moon Turkey Handbook (external link) by Jessica Tamturk, to be published 2008 or 2009 by Avalon Publishing Group.]

   
Below right: The Library of Celsus, at Ephesus.
 

Left: Cybele was an ancient Anatolian and Phrygian mother earth goddess worshipped since Neolithic times. This human sized marble statue of Cybele is found at the Ephesus Archaeological Museum in Selçuk, adjacent to Ephesus. Cybele was akin to the later Greek goddess Artemis (also called Cynthia, named from her birth place of Mount Cynthus on Delos Island). Artemis was Apollo’s twin sister, daughter of Zeus and Leto. Artemis was also akin to the later Roman goddess Diana. The multiple rounded protuberances on the chest of Cybele are actually not breasts, nor are they sacrificed bull testes. Excavation at the site of the Artemision in 1987-88 identified these as tear-shaped amber beads, which adorned her ancient wooden xoanon (carved cult image).

Below right: Ephesus is full of history:
     The column on the right foreground was pieced together from the few remains of the Temple of Artemis (or Greek: Artemision; Latin: Artemisium; or the Sanctuary of the “Lady of Ephesus”), which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World (originally described by Antipater of Sidon). Greek goddess Artemis was akin to the earlier Phrygian goddess Cybele, the ancient Anatolian mother goddess, worshiped since Neolithic times. Artemis was also akin to the later Roman goddess Diana.
     The large Temple of Artemis (measuring 300 by 150 feet) was finished about 560 BCE, after 120 years of construction, started by the notoriously rich Croesus of Lydia on the ruins of a smaller temple designed by Chersiphron. A fame seeker named Herostratus burnt down the Temple of Artemis in 356 BCE. The Ephesians eventually rebuilt it larger, measuring 425 by 225 feet, four times larger in area than the existing Parthenon of Athens (228 x 101 feet; completed 431 BCE).
     In 262 CE, the Temple of Artemis was razed again, this time by Goths. Ephesians rebuilt again, until in the year 401, St. John Chrysostom had it torn down. The stones were reused in other buildings — some of the columns in Hagia Sophia originally belonged to the Temple of Artemis.
     The domed building at middle left is the Church of Jesus Christ, which now serves as a mosque.  To the right and behind is the 6th century Church of Saint John the Apostle. On the hill at top left is Selçuk Castle, a Byzantine construction from the 6th century CE.
     Christian note: Paul of Tarsus (Paul the Apostle) stayed 27 months as a missionary in Ephesus. A few years after 51 CE, he delivered a Christian sermon condemning pagan worship in the theater in Ephesus, where local silversmiths feared loss of income from the sale of silver statues (idols) of the goddess Artemis; the resulting mob almost killed Paul (Acts 19:21–41, in the New Testament) and his companions. After that, Paul avoided Ephesus. Paul died about 64-67 CE in Rome during Nero’s Persecution. However, centuries later, the tide turned in favor of Christianity. During the fourth century, most Ephesians probably converted to Christianity, as all temples were declared closed by Theodosius I in 391 CE.

Left: Corinthian order columns at the Great Theatre of Ephesus. [Published in the Moon Turkey Handbook (external link) by Jessica Tamturk, to be published 2008 or 2009 by Avalon Publishing Group.]

The Great Theatre of Ephesus, the largest outdoor theatre in the ancient world, was begun during Hellenistic times (probably during the reign of Lysimachos in the third century B.C.), and was altered and enlarged from 41-117 CE, by Roman emperors Claudius, Nero, and Trajan. The Greek builders dug out a space from Mount Pion (present-day Panayir Dagi) to fit the 30-meter (100-foot) high theater, which accommodated 25,000 people, or 10 percent of the population of Roman Ephesus at its peak. The theater exhibited the fights of wild beasts and of men with beasts. Some year soon after 51 CE, the Apostle Paul (Paul of Tarsus) delivered a Christian sermon condemning pagan worship in this theater, which roused the idol-making silversmiths and followers of the ancient Anatalian goddess Cybele to riot, almost killing Paul and his companions. After that, Paul avoided Ephesus. Over several centuries, the Cayster River filled the harbor of Ephesus with silt, creating a malaria-infested swamp, pushing the sea 4 kilometers away and cutting off the city’s commerce and wealth. By the 6th century CE, Emperor Justinian decided to build the Saint John Basilica 3 kilometers away, which effectively moved the city center to Selçuk.

Below: The Great Theatre of Ephesus.

Olympos

Left: Olimpos (or Olympos), Turkey: I recommend visiting the ancient natural gas fires of the Chimaera, a remarkable wonder of the natural world. The Chimaera will spontaneously reignite even after you smother the flames! In ancient times these natural fires burned more vigorously, so bright as to be visible by sailors along the nearby coast. In Greek mythology, the Chimaera was the monstrous son of Typhon, and grandson of Gaia.  [Published in the Moon Turkey Handbook (external link) by Jessica Tamturk, to be published 2008 or 2009 by Avalon Publishing Group.]

Below right: Two gulets anchor at Phaselis, offshore of Mt. Olympos (2375 meters or 7792 feet elevation ; Turkish name Tahtalı Dağı). The area around Phaselis and Olympos Valley was one of the most beautiful on our coastal cruise of southwest Turkey. [Published in the Moon Turkey Handbook (external link) by Jessica Tamturk, to be published 2008 or 2009 by Avalon Publishing Group.]
     A gulet is a two-masted wooden sailing vessel traditionally from the Turkish Riviera (or the Turquoise Coast), and today commonly serves as a tourist charter. This motor sailboat design, varying in size from 14 to 35 metres, is also found throughout the eastern Mediterranean Sea. Most gulets are powered by diesel, and many are not properly rigged for sailing.
     Nearby is the ancient city of Olympos (or Olimpos), one of the six leading cities of the Lycian federation (168-178 BCE), located in Olympos Valley, 80 km southwest of Antalya city near the town of Kemer. This coastal peak is the tallest of the several different mountains named Olympos (or Olimpos) in Turkey, but not as tall as the more famous Mount Olympus, the tallest peak in Greece (9,568 feet, or 2918 meters), known to the ancient Greeks as the home of god Zeus. [The highest peak in Turkey is Mount Ararat, an extinct volcano on the eastern border, with a height of 16,854 feet (5,137 meters), also called Buyuk Agri, meaning "Great Pain” in Turkish.]

Ancient Lycia

Left: Lycian tombs (or necropoli) from about 400 BCE can be seen by boat on the Dalyan Çayı River, above the ancient harbor city of Caunos, on the Turquoise Coast, near the town of Koycegiz, in the Republic of Turkey. Dalyan means “fishing weir” in Turkish. The Dalyan Delta, with a long, golden sandy beach at its mouth, is a nature conservation area and a refuge for sea turtles (Caretta caretta) and blue crabs. [Published in the Moon Turkey Handbook (external link) by Jessica Tamturk, to be published 2008 or 2009 by Avalon Publishing Group.]

Below right: Our group seeks shade on a hot day at the Greek theatre at the ancient Roman city of Caunos, Turkey. Caunos was founded in the 800’s BCE, and became a Carian city 400 BCE.

Left: The Church of Saint Nicholas is located in modern Demre (ancient Myra), Turkey. The present-day church was constructed mainly from the 8th century onward. A monastery was added in the second half of the 11th century. An ancient Greek marble sarcophagus had been reused to bury the Saint; but his bones were stolen in 1087 by merchants from Bari, Italy, where today his remains rest in the cathedral, Basilica of San Nicola. [Published in the Moon Turkey Handbook (external link) by Jessica Tamturk, to be published 2008 or 2009 by Avalon Publishing Group.]
 

Click here to continue this blog page about “Turkey: The Turquoise Coast / Turkish Riviera” …

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The following travel notes on Istanbul and Mount Nemrut are excerpted from my page on traveling in the Republic of Turkey, www.photoseek.com/Turkey.html :

Image on right: Nimrod (or Nemrut)Mountain National Park: A six-foot tall head of Zeus commemorates the lofty aspirations of pre-Roman King Antiochus (64-38 BCE). Earthquakes toppled these stone heads from their seated bodies long ago, but this Turkish National Park may make restorations. You can visit this area as an overnight trip from Malatya in central Turkey. Image published in 2001 & 2003.

  
Above: Four photographers photograph sunrise on Mount Nimrod (Nemrut Dağı).

Image below right: Rooftop dining at the Side Hotel & Pension in İstanbul, by the Blue Mosque (also called Sultanahmet Mosque).

Neither earthquakes nor reckless taxi drivers stopped us from enjoying the amazing Republic of Turkey, where my wife and I encountered the friendliest people whom we have ever met. To our Western eyes, Turkey is more exotic than its well-touristed neighbor Greece. We hiked the Kaçkar Mountains, danced with Hemşin and Laz people, drank lots of tea, sailed the Aegean Sea, and even witnessed a total eclipse of the sun! We traveled for 6.5 weeks in Turkey, from July 24 to September 9, 1999.  

Turkey offers a rich variety for travelers:

• Turkey has the lowest travel costs in Europe.
  • Easy, cheap, and comfortable travel on the extensive bus system.
  • Carol and I recommend traveling without a tour package to better experience the wonderful local hospitality and moments of serendipity. You will meet more people on your own.
  • High quality gold jewelry costs half of US prices.
• Turkey offers fascinating historic cities where East meets West. İstanbul makes a fabulous destination for a week or more.
• Turkey offers majestic architecture and ruins from an amazing 9,000 years of Anatolian history (see Turkey Page 2).
  • The Turks came to Anatolia from Central Asia after 1000 CE (and are not culturally related to Arabs or Persians).
  • The sweeping story of Anatolia includes the Hittites, Romans, Saint Paul the Apostle, Süleyman the Magnificent …
• Turkey was the the cradle of Christianity and now hosts popular Christian tours, such as to the birthplaces of Saint Paul the Apostle and Saint Nicholas (”Santa Claus” himself).
• Turkey’s geography ranges from the warm and beautiful Turquoise Coast, to icy Mount Ararat 16,854 feet (5,137 meters).
• Turkey’s people are the friendliest I have ever met:
  • Turks actively practice the Muslim value of hospitality towards visitors, and serve you tea in little tulip-shaped glasses at every opportunity.
  • When travelling on our own away from the big cosmopolitan cities, local folks often showered us with curious attention, making us feel like rock stars in the spotlight. On six different occasions, locals had us take a group photo to mail to them later.
  • The people of Turkey hunger for connection with the world. Most Turks strongly desire joining the European Union (EU) to connect with the world and market their remarkable variety of food and industry.
  • Advice for women:
    • As a Western visitor, my wife Carol only needed a head scarf when entering a mosque.
    • Carol and I dressed conservatively (see our rooftop dining photo above right) and had no problems with unwanted attention (aside from us feeling like rock stars pursued by curious fans).
    • However, in smaller towns and rural areas, Carol felt uncomfortable culture shock by noticing mostly men and very few women on the streets. A common Muslim tradition in rural Turkey is for women to stay at home, or only go out in groups, conservately dressed, usually with a head scarf. This sex role difference is most pronounced in Turkey away from the cosmopolitan cities. We were relieved to experience an exception in the Kaçkar Mountains, where men & women mixed in a more relaxed fashion, and we danced with the local Hemşin and Laz people.
    • Solo female travelers need to be extra confident in the face of assertive male attention in Turkey, and may enjoy the trip better by traveling with a companion of either sex (or with a group). American movies and TV shows shown worldwide have unfortunately portrayed American (or Western World) women as having loose morals, which can encourage amorous men.
• Turkey has low crime:
  • The crime rate in Turkey is lower than in the United States.
  • The risk of terrorism for tourists is very low — no more risky than being struck by lightening. See my discussion of the Kurds (and more general “World Travel Risks”).
  • Tourism in Turkey has been hurt by negative press and misperceptions, and the resulting empty hotel rooms and uncrowded sights make Turkey very attractive for spontaneous visitors.
  • The tragic August 17, 1999 earthquake in İstanbul’s poorly-built suburbs did not damage the airport or any tourist areas. Your chances of experiencing an earthquake are no different than for visiting California. 
• Turkey has fresh & tasty food:
  • Fresh peaches, watermelons, böreks, baklava, meatballs, breads, a hundred eggplant dishes, and more.
  • Turkey is the world’s biggest producer of hazelnuts, figs, & apricots.
  • Turkey is one of only 7 countries in the world that can feed itself without imports.
• Turkey is a democratic, secular, western-looking, rapidly modernizing, capitalistic, NATO ally of the USA.

Click for larger Turkey map.

Left:  A man slices döner kebap at a “self-servis” cafeteria, where the welcome is warm, and the food is tasty and cheap. Döner kebab is a Turkish dish made of meat cooked on a vertical spit and sliced off to order. The meat may be lamb, mutton, beef, or chicken. Alternative names include kebap, donair, döner, doner or donner. Döner Kebab is the origin of other similar Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes such as shawarma and gyros. This image is from Trabzon, the largest port on Turkey’s Black Sea coast.

İstanbul (right): First Bosporus Bridge (or Bosphorus) rises behind Ortaköy Mosque(Büyük Mecidiye Camii). In 1854, the architect of the Sultans’ Dolmabahçe Palace designed the Ortaköy Mosque, in an eclectic-baroque style for Sultan Abdül Mecit.  

Built in 1973, the First Bosporus Bridge connects Europe with Asia and is one of the longest bridges in the world. İstanbul is the world’s only city which spans two continents. 3% of the Republic of Turkey is in Turkish Thrace, in Europe on the Balkan Peninsula, and 97% of Turkey is Anatolia (Asia Minor/Anadolu).
      The Bosporus Strait separates Europe from Asia and has determined the history of İstanbul and its empires (or Istanbul Strait; in Turkish: İstanbul Boğazı; in Greek Βόσπορος). As the world’s narrowest strait used for international navigation, the Bosporus connects the Black Sea with the Sea of Marmara (which is connected by the Dardanelles to the Aegean Sea, and thereby to the Mediterranean Sea).

Ethnic harmony and conflict:
In the suburb of Ortaköy, a Jewish synagogue, Islamic mosque, and Christian church have been peaceful neighbors for centuries, through today. After Ottoman Turks conquered the city of Byzantium in 1453 and renamed it İstanbul, the Ottomans’ millet system of distinct religious communities allowed Jews, Greeks, Armenians, and Kurds to continue to live in relative harmony for centuries, as they had in Byzantine times. In the 1400’s and 1500’s, many Jews who fled from the Spanish Inquisition took shelter in Ottoman İstanbul, which welcomed their advanced knowledge of science and economics. In modern times, many of these Jews were attracted to Israel, leaving only 24,000 in Turkey today. As the Ottoman Empire weakened and ethnic nationalism rose at the turn of the 20th century, Armenians, Greeks, and Kurds yearned to assert their own control over claimed homelands, and they separately fought bitter but unsuccessful battles against the staunch Turks.

Left: Rumelihisarı, or the “Fortress of Europe” or “Fortress on the Land of the Romans”, is in Istanbul, in the Republic of Turkey, located on a hill at the European side of the Bosporus just north of the Bebek district, in the “Rumeli Hisari” quarter. Rumelihisarı was built by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II between 1451 and 1452, for controlling the narrowest reach of the Bosporus in a siege of Byzantine Constantinople, which he conquered in 1453. After just one year of use, it never again served as a fortress. The Bosporus strait forms the boundary between the European part (Rumelia) of Turkey and its Asian part (Anatolia).

Above: İstanbul, viewed from Galata Tower: The Golden Horn, one of the great natural harbors of the world, carries a large share of Turkey’s trade through its connection to the Bosphorus Strait (out of the picture to the left).

Left: Four minarets embrace the Hagia Sofia (Aya Sofya Museum) in İstanbul. The minarets were added after Muslim conquest. Hagia Sofia served as a mosque from 1453 to 1935, after which Atatürk, the father of the modern Republic of Turkey, declared it a museum.

Hagia Sofia (Aya Sofya Museum)

Emperor Justinian built the Hagia Sofia from 532 to 537 CE in Constantinople on the site of a former Hagia Sofia on the acropolis of the former Byzantium. The 102-foot diameter dome perches an amazing 180 feet above the floor (rivalling the scale of the 144-foot high and wide concrete dome of Rome’s Pantheon, built earlier from 118-125 CE). An earthquake collapsed the dome after only 22 years, and it was rebuilt several times by later Byzantine emperors and Ottoman sultans. 30 million gold mosaic tiles covered the dome’s interior in Byzantine times. Hagia Sofia reigned as the greatest church in Christendom for nearly 1000 years, until the Islamic conquest of Constantinople by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453. A church with a larger dome, St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, was not built until 1506. Hagia Sofia served as a mosque from 1453 to 1935, after which Atatürk, the father of the modern Republic of Turkey, declared it a museum. İstanbul’s Hagia Sofia still stands as one of the architectural marvels of the world.

Left: Christ the Pantocrator (”ruler of all”) is portrayed in one of several gold mosaics in the Aya Sofya Museum, in Istanbul, Turkey (in Greek, it is called Hagia Sofia, or Sancta Sophia in Latin, which means “Divine Wisdom.”) The Christian mosaics were covered with plaster by Muslim conquerors after 1453, but several have been uncovered and restored.

Above right: The Aya Sofya Museum is lit brightly at night, in İstanbul. In Greek, it is called Hagia Sofia, or Sancta Sophia in Latin, which means “Divine Wisdom.” The minarets were constructed after the Islamic conquest of 1453.

Left: We approach the Blue Mosque (or Sultanahmet Mosque) through attractive gardens.

Below: Sultanahmet (or Blue) Mosque interior and ceiling, was built 1609-1616 in İstanbul (Istanbul), Turkey.

Left: Architect Sinan built Süleymaniye Imperial Mosque on Golden Horn harbor in İstanbul from 1550-1557. Suleiman the Magnificent and his wife are buried here. In the West, he is known as Suleiman the Magnificent. In the Islamic world, he is known as the Lawgiver (in Turkish “Kanuni”; making his formal Turkish name of Kanuni Sultan Süleyman), because he completely reconstructed the Ottoman legal system.

Below right: Arabesque arches at Süleymaniye Imperial Mosque.


Left: This garden and pond are at Dolmabahçe Palace (Dolmabahçe Sarayı in Turkish; English spelling Dolmabahce) in Istanbul, Turkey, located at the European side of the Bosphorus Strait. The palace served as the main administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1853 to 1922, except for a twenty-year period (1889-1909) in which the Yıldız Palace was used. In style, the palace is baroque, rococo and very French. Dolmabahçe means “filled garden”, referring to the palace being built from 1843-1856 on land reclaimed from the sea.

Below: The magnificent Throne Room of Dolmabahçe Palace.  [Published in the Moon Turkey Handbook (external link) by Jessica Tamturk, to be published 2008 or 2009 by Avalon Publishing Group.]

Turkey index page 1 of 2 on photoseek.com: Introduction , Anatolia’s fame , Christian sights , silk , total solar eclipse ; İstanbul & history ( Hagia Sofia , Süleymaniye Mosque ) ; Turquoise Coast ( Santa Claus - St. Nicholas , Lycia , Ephesus , Gemile Island , Kayakoy , Arycanda , Perga ) ; Cappadocia ; Eastern Turkey ( Black Sea Coast , Kaçkar Mountains , Nemrut Mountain )

Turkey page 2 of 2 on photoseek.com:   Anatolia’s History , Islam , Atatürk , Turks , Kurds , Armenians , Greek/Turk War 1919-1922

See related page on photoseek.com:    Greece: Greek War of Independence 1821-1829

For an illustrated summary of my Alaska tips in PDF format, click here: “Alaska via Air, Sea & RV”

Below right: The Alaska Range reflects in Summit Lake (3210 feet elevation) on the Richardson Highway.

Suggested Alaska Itinerary:

• If you have 1 week: A great way to see Alaska in a short visit is to fly to Anchorage, rent a camper or RV, and drive for a week or more (about 600+ miles) to see everything on the Kenai Peninsula, which is a great microcosm of Alaska.
  • I highly recommend the Phillips 26-Glacier College Fjord Cruise, which we booked one day in advance.
  • If the weather is good, I highly recommend flightseeing over Denali from Talkeetna or Anchorage Airport.
  • Instead of renting an RV, many people enjoy taking the Alaska Railroad train which connects Anchorage to Kenai Peninsula, Denali National Park, and Fairbanks.
• If you have 2 to 3 weeks: Do the above, and add a ~1200+ mile driving loop seeing Valdez, Fairbanks, & Denali National Park (red tundra fall colors in Denali reach their peak from the end of August to early September, ~350 miles one way from Anchorage). 
  • I recommend booking a side trip (off the Richardson Highway) to visit McCarthy and Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark (use the Kennecott Shuttle to avoid 120 miles round trip on a rough potholed road; although the road has improved over the years).
• If you have 3 to 4 weeks (same as above except spend more time for hiking, relaxing, and sidetrips).
• Alaska Time Zone = Seattle (or Pacific Time Zone) minus one hour.

Camper, Motorhome or RV Rental:

Traveling with a pickup camper or RV has distinct advantages over tenting or lodging, if your goal is to experience the great Alaskan outdoors:

• Car + Tenting is the cheapest way to see Alaska. However, Alaska is a bit too rainy & buggy to sleep in a tent regularly (unless you are young or hardy). Tenting subjects you to the whims of weather.
• Car + Lodging:
  • Car plus lodging costs about as much as renting an RV.
  • Disadvantages of staying in hotels/accommodation:
    • Lodging often must be reserved well in advance in popular areas of Alaska.
    • Lodging can be scarce in the beautiful areas where you may most want to experience nature, whereas RV camping or overnight parking areas are much more plentiful.
  • Advantages of camping:
    • Campground slots are very much easier to obtain spontaneously, versus finding lodging. The only campgrounds we needed to reserve ( during our trip August 15 to September 8, 2006 ) were Teklanika (RV) and Wonder Lake (tent) in Denali NP.
    • Camping puts you in closer contact with nature than a hotel room. An RV is just as comfortable, and more convenient, than a hotel room.
    •   Once you unpack your luggage into an RV, you don’t need to manually lug your belongings around for the rest of the trip.
• Pickup Camper or RV:
  • A pickup mounted with a camper shell will take you over rougher roads to more places than a motorhome or RV.
  • A pickup camper gets much better gas mileage than an RV, but its daily rental rate can be higher than a small RV. The net cost may end up about the same for pickup camper versus RV, even in the off season.
    • Save 20 to 30% on your motorhome RV rental by renting before or after high season, which runs from about July 1 to August 15.
    • When I priced pickup campers in 2006, they offered no off-season price savings.
  • In 2006, we used the following excellent value RV rental company:  ClippershipMotorhomes.com
    • Clippership Motorhomes: free airport pick up (907) 562-7051 or 800-421-3456. 8-5 pm every day.
    • 20 or 22-foot Economy Class $2200 for 24 days August 15 – September 8, 2006 = $90/day plus gas (includes 8% MOA tax & 3% state tax), 2400 free miles then $.15/mile; housekeeping package $15 each. Reserve with deposit $250, then upon arrival pay $250 more deposit.  All gravel roads are prohibited, though you can of course drive into gravelled campgrounds or short access roads. It only gets 9 miles per gallon of gasoline or less. Ouch!
    • Includes: Sheets, blankets, pillows, towels, pots and pans, knife, fork and spoon for each traveler, pancake turner, measuring cup, baking pan, scrubber, cooking spoons, can opener, grater, colander, paring knife, butcher knife, coffee pot, mixing bowls, pot holders, cutting board, potato peeler, broom, dust pan, water hose, level, trash can and instruction manual. Add the convenient HOUSEKEEPING PACKAGE: $15.00 per person: dishes, glasses, pitcher, kitchen towel, dish cloth, first aid kit, dish soap, paper towels, toilet paper, bath soap, toilet chemical, matches and hangers.
• Fly to Alaska + Rent a Vehicle:
  • Flying to Anchorage and picking up your reserved vehicle saves at least 4000 miles of driving time & expense getting to Alaska from the Lower 48 States.
  • We cashed in Northwest Airline miles for free flights to Anchorage, where we rented an RV for 24 days (August 15 to September 8), which plunged us directly into the big Alaskan scenery, while avoiding two weeks of extra driving round trip from Seattle.
    • Seattle to Anchorage is 5000 miles round trip. Driving to the first Alaskan town of Tok would take 4000 miles round trip, which would have added two weeks of steady driving, campground & food expenses, plus wear and tear on our own vehicle.
    • Although the Alaskan Highway is a famous journey, much of the drive is actually monotonous forest scenery. The time and expense saved (for not driving 4000 miles round trip to Tok) easily pays for renting an RV for a significant block of vacation time. The break even point may be 1 to 3 weeks RV rental, depending upon your situation. If you plan to stay more than a month, it may be worth driving your own vehicle from the Lower 48.
• Southeast Alaska travel tip: 
  • On a future trip to Southeast Alaska, which is significantly closer to Seattle than Anchorage, we plan to drive our own camper to Prince Rupert, Canada, from where we will ride the ferries (without our vehicle) to Juneau and back to Prince Rupert. (Bringing a car on the ferry would cost $800+ and require reservations 4-6 months in advance.) With our savings from not bringing a car, we can flexibly rent cars or take public transportation along the ferry routes. We can board ferries more spontaneously as passengers without a car. Locals say April/May has the best weather and fewer tourists.

Right: Female moose with two calves at Eagle Creek Campground, on the Glenn Highway, Milepost 11.6 from Anchorage.

Weather/When to visit:

• May 10 to September 15 is generally a good time to visit most parts of Alaska.
• Long daylight: June 21 is the longest day of the year, with 19 hours of daylight in Anchorage, 22 in Fairbanks, and 18 in Southeast Alaska. Any time between Spring and Fall equinoxes, the days are significantly longer in Alaska than at lower latitudes.
• Peak tourist season is mid-June to mid-August. Before and after that are “shoulder season” discounts 10 – 25% at some hotels and tour operators.
• Hiking season: Snow in high country or Arctic regions does not melt until about late June. June is “post-hole” season, so named for walking through melting patchy snow.
• Fall colors: Peak fall colors of the red tundra in Denali are late August to early September. On the Kenai Peninsula, aspen tree yellow & gold leaf fall colors usually peak September 15-18th, a few days after Denali National Park. The Glenn Highway (from Anchorage to Glennallen) has great gold aspens against rugged mountain background. Just a few days after Kenai comes the Anchorage area’s yellow color peak, which is the last turning of leaf colors in south-central Alaska.
• May is generally drier in Alaska, with about a 25% chance of measurable rain on the average day. Alaska gets rainier as the summer progresses. By August, the chance of rain increases to about 50% on a given day.
• Climate zones:
  • The rainiest areas are on the ocean side of the mountain ranges.
  • In south-central Alaska’s summer (such as in Anchorage & Homer), expect rain one third of the time, cloudy one third, and sunny one third. Peak mosquito season is the end of June and the first part of July in marshy lowlands, but no problem on breezy alpine ridges. Bugs are no problem after late July. South-central Alaska has 70% of the state’s population, the most roads and the most hiking trails. The varied climate transitions from the mild and wet southern coast, to the colder and drier interior to the north.
  • Fairbanks and the interior north of the Alaska Range have significantly sunnier weather than further south. The snow melts faster in the interior in Spring than in south-central Alaska. Early summer season has thunderstorms and forest fires. The interior of Alaska has more mosquitoes than south-central Alaska, starting in mid-June, but the bugs die away after the first frosts in late July. The best hiking is in the Alaska Range and the Yukon-Tanana uplands near Fairbanks.
  • Southeast Alaska (Juneau to Ketchikan) is the rainiest area in Alaska (with local variability). Locals say April/May has the best weather with the least rain (and fewer tourists).
  • Southwest Alaska (including Katmai National Park) is wet and windy, and stretches 1400 miles down the Alaska Peninsula and the Aleutian Islands.
• Weather Radio: When traveling in Alaska, check weather forecasts frequently, such as by using an inexpensive NOAA weather radio, which is built into many 5-to-10-mile “walkie talkie” style radios. Or check weather on the internet. By checking the NOAA radio’s two-day weather forecast (which is surprisingly accurate if you check the latest update every 6 hours), we were able to book spectacular sunny days for our 26-Glacier College Fjord Cruise, and for our flightseeing trip over Denali starting at Talkeetna.
• Keep your schedule flexible: Near the end of August 2006 (the beginning of our trip), a steady downpour washed out a critical section of the Parks Highway from Anchorage to Denali for 2.5 days. By reversing our planned route, the road was fixed by the time we looped through.

Bring to Alaska:

• A NOAA weather radio (such as found in walkie talkies with 8+ mile range) or internet connection for the latest 2-day weather forecast. The most recent forecast is critical for hikers and backpackers, and is surprisingly accurate for 1-2 days out. NOAA weather radio reception is available within about 10 or 15 miles of main cities.
• compass
• binoculars for wildlife viewing
• Sleep mask – even on September 1, skies are surprisingly light for 16 hours in Anchorage!
• If you are concerned about mosquitoes, complete your trip before they hatch in mid-June, or visit the last week in July or later when the first night frosts eliminate most insect problems. If visiting during mosquito season (mid-June to mid-July), bring DEET, which is the only proven repellent.
• Motion sickness remedy (a prescription patch works best) for sea & air (we didn’t need it).
• If camping overnight at Wonder Lake or elsewhere, bring camping gear: tent, stove, pots, sleeping bag, pad, backpack, safety matches, etc.
• Hiking books:
  • 55 ways to the Wilderness in South Central Alaska, published 2002 by the Mountaineers Books. Excellent details on the best 55 hikes within about 4 hours drive of Anchorage.
  • Hiking Alaska, by Dean Littlepage, A Falcon Guide published 1997 by The Globe Pequot Press. This book is a helpful overview of the best hikes throughout Alaska.

Above: I photographed the above image of Mt. McKinley / Denali (20,320 ft) from the Denali Park Road near Eielson Visitor Center, accessible only by bus.  Feel free to ask the shuttle driver to stop when you want to step out to take a photograph.
     Mt. McKinley is only visible 1 out of 3 days. Rain falls half of the summer days, as light showers or drizzle. The least cloudy time is early morning, which requires overnight tenting at Wonder Lake (because even the earliest shuttle bus doesn’t reach Denali views until mid morning).  I was lucky to see Denali on five different days during a relatively sunny week, August 27 – Sept 3, 2006.  Photography is best on Denali National Park’s road at early or late daylight hours since Denali is backlit much of the afternoon (but it is nicely front lit from Denali State Park, which is closer to Anchorage, on the publicly accessible Parks Highway). 

Alaska Index for Photoseek.com: pages 1 ~ 2 ~ 3 ~ Alaska map ~ Travel tips

• Alaskan animals: Brown Bear (Grizzly) , Polar Bear , Moose , Musk Ox , Mountain Goat , Dall Sheep , Caribou vs Reindeer , Snowy Owl , Sandhill Crane , Kittiwake Rookery , Tufted Puffins , Steller Sea Lion , Anenomes
• Page 1: Anchorage & Glenn Highway: Knik Glacier , Matanuska Glacier ; Kenai Peninsula: Whittier ( College & Harriman Fjords , Prince William Sound , Portage Glacier ) ; Seward ( Alaska Sealife Center ) & Kenai Fjords NP ( Exit Glacier , Aialik Glacier ) ; Russian Churches ; Homer
• Page 2: Mount McKinley / Denali National Park ( Flightseeing , Northern Lights , Husky Sled Dogs ) ; Talkeetna , Denali State Park , Fall Colors & Patterns
• Page 3: Richardson Highway, Valdez to Fairbanks : Worthington Glacier , Wrangell-St. Elias NP ( McCarthy , Kennecott Mines NHL , Copper River ) Trans-Alaska Pipeline , Alaska Range
• Click here to view slide show (August 15 - September 8, 2006).

Map of our 2006 RV driving trip, about 2300 miles:

 The following images are highlights from my Seattle Aquarium page http://www.photoseek.com/wa1a-usa.html
Left: Ripples on the water surface distorts this view of an orange and red sea anemone at the Seattle Aquarium, Washington.

Left: The Crescent Wrasse (Thalassoma lunare) or Moon Wrasse is a bright blue and green fish with pink and yellow features, found in the Pacific Coral Reefs. Seattle Aquarium, Washington.

Left: Starfish come in red, orange, purple and magenta colors intertwine at the Seattle Aquarium, Washington. Starfish or sea stars are any echinoderms belonging to the class Asteroidea. The “star fish” usually hunt for shelled animals such as oysters and clams. They have two stomachs, one used for digestion, and the other stomach can be extended outward to engulf and digest prey much larger than its mouth. Most starfish have 5 arms, which can be regenerated if lost.

Below: The Banded Coral Shrimp (Stenopus hispidus) is a common sight on nearly every Indo-Pacific ocean reef. Although it looks like a shrimp, it is not a true shrimp. Also known as a Coral Banded Shrimp, Banded Boxer Shrimp, Banded Prawn, Barber-Pole Shrimp, or Cleaner Shrimp, it often feeds on the parasites that cooperative fish or eels allow it to pick off their bodies. Stenopus hispidus is a shrimp-like decapod crustacean, belonging to the infraorder Stenopodidea. It is a few centimetres long and has red bands around its body, and long, white antennae. The body is covered with short defensive spines. Like other decapods they can use the tail to escape backwards rapidly (the caridoid escape reaction). Stenopus hispidus is a common aquarium pet, because it removes dead tissue, algae and parasites from the tank and from larger fish. Seattle Aquarium, Washington

Left: The Giant Pacific Octopus (Octopus dofleini) can be found along the Pacific coast from Alaska to southern California. This closeup view of octopus leg suckers is at the Seattle Aquarium, Washington.

Below: This bivalve displays blue stripes glowing under ultraviolet light, next to some coral, at the Seattle Aquarium, Washington.

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Below are highlights of my images for Havasu Canyon, from www.photoseek.com/swusa2.html:

Havasu Canyon flows into the Colorado River, and is part of the Grand Canyon. River rafters can hike a long rough trail up to visit Supai, but the normal access is via an 8-mile dusty horse trail from a car park at Hualapai Hilltop (or via helicopter).
     Havasupai (or Havasu ‘Baaja) means “people of the blue-green water,” and their people have tended fields in the Grand Canyon for at least 700 years. The Havasupai also lived at what is now called Indian Garden on the Bright Angel Trail in the main Grand Canyon, but they were evicted by the National Park Service in the 1920’s. Their brush shelters (wickiups) and gardens were destroyed at Indian Garden, leaving the Havasupai Tribe just 518 acres in Havasu Canyon. In 1975, a more the enlightened time, 187,500 acres of canyon and rimland were returned to the tribe. As of 2005, about 450 of the tribe’s 650 members live in the village of Supai. As of 1999, Supai is the only town in the United States which still receives its mail by mule train.

Left: Havasu Canyon, Arizona: Havasu Creek plunges over Havasu Falls (100 feet high) in Havasu Canyon, on the Havasupai Indian Reservation. The beautiful color in the pools of Havasu Creek is caused by carbonate minerals settling to the bottom, turning it white, and acting as a reflector of the surrounding green and brown mossy cliffs plus the blue sky. This unique color combination creates a striking turquoise pool, and one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world.

Below right: A rainbow forms in the spray of the double plunge of Havasu Falls.

Tom and Carol in Havasu Canyon, April 1999

Having registered for camping permission from the Havasupai Tribe a few weeks in advance (as recommended), Carol and I parked our car in the dirt lot at Hualapai Hilltop and backpacked the 8-mile dusty trail downhill into Supai Village. About 25,000 tourists visit each year, so advance reservations are recommended. We checked in at the tribal office, then hiked 2 more miles to the campground, passing the wonderful Havasu Falls, one of the most surprising desert oasis experiences in the world. We also visited the impressive Mooney Falls, a short walk further downstream. I say, “thank you very much, Havasupai people, for sharing your very special canyon with visitors.”
     To more fully experience the isolation of this desert oasis, I strongly recommend walking to Supai, instead of riding a horse or helicopter. But next time we’ll consider having the mule train carry our packs, to make the desert walk more comfortable. Helicopters also carry in people and supplies, but the loud chop-chopping roar disturbed my appreciation of this beautiful natural setting. Out of nowhere, a porta-potty suddenly flew over our heads. Helicopters repeatedly flew full porta-potties, one at a time on a very long cable, out of the heavily-used campground, for disposal elsewhere. A composting toilet would seem to be a more cost effective solution. The densely-packed and worn campground in this narrow canyon would have benefited by further restricting the number of visitors per day.

Right: Havasu Falls seen from above.

Below: Carol hikes down from the high desert rim into Havasu Canyon.

Left: Mooney Falls (200 ft high), was named after a miner who fell to his death here. It is located downstream of Havasu Falls on Havasu Creek, in the Havasupai Indian Reservation, Arizona.

Below right: Red cactus flower in Havasu Canyon.
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Below: Patagonia, Argentina: Cerro Fitz Roy (or Monte Fitz Roy) was named after Captain Fitzroy of the ship Beagle, which carried Charles Darwin. The Yamana natives called this mountain “Chalten”, or “Peak of Fire,” probably because of the frequent smoke-like clouds which surround the mountain. The fiery sunrise light might also have influenced the name, as seen here from the southern end of the resort village of El Chalten near the entrance station for Los Glaciares National Park. Several hiking trails in the park offer a variety of stunning views. (I stitched this panorama in Adobe Photoshop from 3 images, which is a handy, inexpensive way to increase the wide angle resolution of your camera. Image number: 05ARG-50105-07pan@CerroFitzRoyRangeSunrise.jpg) 

From: Doug, in California:
I have long enjoyed your pictures of the Fitz Roy Range (from your web site), and my wife and I visited Calafate and then Chalten in late September of this year.  I had brought my new Hasselblad H3D hoping to get some spectacular photographs, but a combination of strong winds and persistent clouds over the mountains made that impossible.  I am thus asking you how much it would cost to get a high resolution panoramic digital image of the Fitz Roy Range (the second of your early morning panoramics is my favorite).  I am a professor of physics, but photography is my passion.  I am not a professional photographer.  My goal is always to take and print (Epson 4000) images that I can hang on my office and family room walls. Please advise.
Best wishes, Doug

Tom Dempsey replied:   [Doug paid through Paypal, and I e-mailed the image as a JPEG file 13x43 inches at 300dpi. ]

Question from: Doug,  March 04, 2008: … I really like this one on my desktop…Macbook Pro, and the image on the high res screen is amazing.  It looks like you used a 4×5 camera with transparency film. Correct? …

Tom replied:  I stitched this panorama from 3 images shot on a tripod, from the 8 megapixel Canon Powershot Pro1 (3264×2448 pixels per image), enlarged to 13×43 and sharpened moderately in Photoshop for printing (except skies and shadows are not sharpened, to avoid accentuating the small amount of noise in areas of uniform tone). 

In the image to the right, I show detail at 66% pixel zoom enlargement, taken from the top image:

Doug says: Thanks.  Boy did I get that wrong.  I suppose I was thinking about how I used to do those things before I went digital…
Have you ever played with a Better Light scanning back?  The only problem is that you end up with about 45 pounds of photo gear, and so you tend to shoot pretty near to your car… I tend to shoot with either a Canon EOS 1Ds II or my Hasselblad H3D. The Better Light back with either my Toyo 45G or Linhof Master Technika 45 produces really spectacular images, but only if there is no wind,  and close to my car.  I do have a sherpacart,  but I only use that when we are driving from home,  not flying to someplace.

Tom replied:  I have not used the Better Light scanning back; I like carrying a lightweight camera (trekking up to 10 hours a day in my chest bag, far from the car), and stitching images with Photoshop, a simple and lightweight solution.
… Two years after that Patagonia trip, in 2007, I upgraded to the Nikon D40X DSLR with Nikkor 18-200mm VR lens (38 ounces total), a better camera than the trusty 26-ounce Canon Pro1, both great for travel. If interested, here is how my equipment evolved over the years: http://www.photoseek.com/camera-history.html

Doug asks: What time of the year did you take the shot?  We were there in late September and it was awful!  We couldn’t see the mountains and the winds gusted to over 100 mph.

Tom replied:  I shot this Fitz Roy panorama at sunrise March 8, 2005, a windless morning at ground level, with wind-blown clouds above. The next day had 50mph winds up in the mountains, 30mph in town. An earlier day was cloudy and rainy, with less wind. Weather varies a lot there day by day. Climate statistics for Patagonia show that late February through March have less wind & rain than earlier in the summer; and March has fewer tourists than summer, best time to go, through April for fall colors.

Doug asks: By the way,  what are the two things that look like road signs at the extreme left of the panoramic?   Were you near a road?

Tom replied:  Those are road reflectors. The best shot at sunrise within 1.5 miles of my cabin in El Chalten was right off the road at the entrance to the town of El Chalten, Argentina.

Below right: This demon protects a gilded chedi (or stupa), at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew), which is a shining complex of buildings within the grounds of the Grand Palace in Bangkok, Thailand. Photograph by Carol Dempsey, using a Canon Powershot SD700 IS ELPH, which is a camera about the size of a deck of playing cards.

Photographer Tom Dempsey replies to Raul Panelo’s message at bottom March 03, 2008:

Dear Raul,

You probably already know that your skills as a photographer are much more important than the camera you choose. That being said, your high quality Canon 40D (and 20D) DSLR outfit has some important differences versus the 13-ounce Canon Powershot G9: Here are the main advantages of your excellent DSLR camera outfit