The Alps 1 ~ 2 ~ 3 ~ 4:
2. The Haute Route from Chamonix (Mont Blanc) to Zermatt (Matterhorn)
France: Chamonix , ibex , Aiguille du Midi , hikes.  Italy: Courmayeur hikes.  Switzerland: map , The Valais ( Arolla , Moiry , Meidpass ,  Zermatt & Matterhorn hikes , Loetschental ).

More Alps Pages: 1. Berner Oberland, Switzerland ( Swiss Travel Tips , Alps Weather & Hiking Season ) ~ 3. Engadine, Switzerland ~ 4. Swiss Trivia Page

Photographs Copyright 2005 & 1981 by Tom Dempsey. Page last updated January 31, 2008.
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The 112-mile Haute Route (High Route) from Chamonix's Mont Blanc to Zermatt's Matterhorn (Switzerland) offers amazing scenery and Old World charm, as described below. Click here for a slide show of 153 images from our Haute Route trek, from Chamonix (Mont Blanc) to Zermatt (Matterhorn) in 2005.

Above: Trekkers are silhouetted against the Mont Blanc Massif (15,782 feet or 4810 metres; or Monte Bianco in Italian; the highest peak in Western Europe), at Lacs des Cheserys, on the High Route (Haute Route), above Chamonix, France. (Panorama stitched from 2 images.)

Chamonix, France

Left: Mont Blanc (15,782 feet or 4810 metres; or Monte Bianco in Italian; the highest peak in Western Europe) was first climbed in 1786 by two men from Chamonix, France, including Michel-Gabriel Paccard, who is memorialized in this statue, to the left of the rock art sculpture. Today Chamonix (at 3379 feet or 1030 meters elevation) is an important world center for mountaineering. Flags fly over the River Arve.

Below: Flags fly over the River Arve in Chamonix, France. Mont Blanc (15,782 feet), visible high above, is the highest peak in Western Europe. (Vertical image)

Below right: Mont Blanc (15,782 feet), is the highest peak in Western Europe.
Mont Blanc was first climbed in 1786 by two men from Chamonix. Today Chamonix is an important world center for mountaineering.

Recommended Hikes in Chamonix, France:

• Day Hikes:
• Lac Blanc: Hike 6 miles, with 1800 feet vertical elevation gain one way, after taking La Flégère cable car lift. Start on La Flégère cable car at the north edge of Les Praz de Chamonix, one train stop or 10 minutes by bus from Chamonix. Behold the stunning Mont Blanc Massif across the valley. Day hike or stay overnight at Lac Blanc in hut for sunset & sunrise reflection of the spectacular rock needles rising above Chamonix Valley. [See hike #12 in 100 Hikes in the Alps, 2nd Edition, published by The Mountaineers 1992.]
• Lacs Noirs and Cornu, 5.5 miles, 2000 feet: Take Le Brévent télécabine (gondola lift, 20 minutes). You can optionally combine this with the above Lac Blanc hike. [See hike #13 in 100 Hikes in the Alps.]
• The clouds parted sufficiently on both of these hikes to give spectacular views for Carol and I. (See images below.)
• Hut to Hut Walking:
  
• The 112-mile Haute Route (High Route) from Chamonix's Mont Blanc to Zermatt's Matterhorn (Switzerland) offers dramatic scenery and Old World charm. The whole trek takes two weeks, but the first three days grandly introduce the Alps:
• Day 1 (2-5 hours hiking): Start with Lac Blanc (instructions above) and stay in the a hut for panoramic views, with sunset & sunrise reflections of the spectacular rock needles rising above Chamonix Valley.
• Day 2 (5-7 hours): Look for ibex (wild goats) on the way to Col de Balme, the first of 11 high passes on the Haute Route. End the day at Refuge du Peuty.
• Day 3 (5-7 hours): After a rocky climb to Fênetre d'Arpette, with views of the Glacier du Trient, descend through meadows to the bus at Champex (or keep walking all the way to the Matterhorn to complete the Haute Route).
  
• Huts cost about $25 to $80 per night per person with meals. Up in the huts, your photographs may capture more spectacular sunrise and sunset light than staying in hotels down in the valleys. Hut info: ohm-chamonix.com, sac-cas.ch
• Alternatively, you can use more lifts, and hike high, sleep low in comfortable hotels or hostels nestled in each valley, much lower than the huts. We loved our 10-day self-guided "Hiker's Haute Route" package from Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures.
  
• Mont Blanc Circuit (or Tour du Mont Blanc) is one of the great hikes of the world, very spectacular, & more popular & crowded when compared to the Haute Route. Hike hut to hut, from France to Italy to Switzerland, all on foot in about 8-10 days around the Mont Blanc Massif. Or day-hike the highlights, such as from a base in Courmayeur, Italy:
  

Recommended Hikes in Courmayeur, Italy:

• Courmayeur, Italy is a short bus or car ride from Chamonix through the convenient Mont Blanc Tunnel.
  
• You can also take a spectacular Cable Car from Chamonix (France) to Aiguille du Midi then telecabines to Hellbronner to La Palud at Courmayeur (Italy); or reverse direction. This makes a fantastic round trip in a half or full day. You can also combine this experience with the first hike below, taking a full day.
  
• Views from Courmayeur are described as more rugged & intimate (peaks are closer) than in the Chamonix area. We stayed overnight in Courmayeur but didn't hike due to rainy weather. We would love to return for any of these world-class hikes below:
• Hiking Northwest of Courmayeur: Take the cable car from La Palud at the head of the valley (near the entry to Mont Blanc Tunnel), to Torino Hut (3375 meters elevation, 250 beds, reserve 1 week ahead, Tel. (0)165 844 034 CAI Italian Alpine Club Hut). Walk a short distance on snow to Col du Géant, one of the world’s great mountain views: see over the Vallée Blanche from the Brenva Face of Mont Blanc, and see over the Aiguilles and around to the Géant.
  
• Hiking West of Courmayeur: Monte Bianco View, 8 miles one way, about 4.5 hours. From Courmayeur take Val Veni bus to end of pavement at 1955m, hike back via Col Chécrouit. You can cable car from or to Col Chécrouit. Hike to Lac Chécrouit for a picturesque reflection. "Stunning view of mountain savagery (Aiguile Noir) from spur of Mount Favre.” You can eat a festive lunch at La Maison Vieille on the mountain near the cable car. [See hike #23 in 100 Hikes in the Alps, 2nd Edition, published by The Mountaineers 1992.]
• Hiking Northeast of Courmayeur:   [See hike #24 in 100 Hikes in the Alps, 2nd Edition, published by The Mountaineers 1992.]
  
• Montagne de la Sax ridge:  ~9 miles, ~4000 feet gain one way Courmayeur to Lavachey, sleep there or bus back. Hike high above Val Ferret through larch forest to “some of the widest & grandest panoramas of the Mont Blanc Circuit.” See back up Val Veni to Col de la Seigne & whole Mont Blanc massif. Closer rocky peaks form an impressive wall: Géant, Grandes Jorasses, Leschaux, Triolet, & Mont Dolent. 
• Grand Col du Ferret: car 6 miles / bus 10 miles, hike steeply up ~2700 feet gain. You can also hike on into Swiss Val Ferret, and bus/train back to Courmayeur via Martigny; or continue hiking around the popular Mont Blanc Circuit.

Left: From our flower-filled hotel balcony, we get a good view of Mont Blanc, in Chamonix, France.

Above: Flags fly over the River Arve in Chamonix, France. Mont Blanc (15,782 feet), visible high above, is the highest peak in Western Europe. (Horizontal version)

Left: Flowers in the garden of Hotel Mont-Blanc, Chamonix, France. Above it rises Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe. Mont Blanc was first climbed in 1786 by two men from Chamonix. Today Chamonix, France, shown here, is an important world center for mountaineering.






Below: Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe, rises high above Chamonix.


Above: La Mer de Glace, Needles of Chamonix and fireweed.

Left: La Mer de Glace is a pretty glacier easily accessible from Chamonix via cog railway or day hike.

Below: Carol reads a trail sign at La Mer de Glace.

Below: Flowers in Chamonix. [Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2006-2008 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]


Left: The De Saussure statue looks at Mont Blanc in Chamonix.

Below right: The front of the statue of French scientist De Saussure.


Left: Flowers and flags by the River Arve in Chamonix, France.

Above right: Bountiful flowers adorn a covered footbridge over the River Arve, in Chamonix. [Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2006 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

Left: Carol hikes the High Route (Haute Route) across from the La Mer de Glace, a pretty glacier easily accessible from Chamonix via cog railway or day hike.

Below: Carol hikes on the High Route above Chamonix, France.

Ibex

Left: Capra ibex (Steinbok) adult female, above Chamonix, France, in the Reserve Naturelle Aiguilles Rouges, on the High Route (Haute Route).

Below: Capra ibex (Steinbok) adult female steps through the rocks, above Chamonix, France.

Left: An adult female Capra Ibex (or Steinbok; on the right) walks near a hikers' cairn with Mont Blanc glaciers looming in the background.








Below: An adult female Capra Ibex (or Steinbok) walks near a red trail marker and yellow lichen.

Lacs-Cheserys

Above: Hikers by Lacs-Cheserys (not far from Lac Blanc) with Chamonix Needles in the background.

Lac Cornu

Below left: Lac Cornu, a scenic day hike above Chamonix. [ Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2006 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

Above right: Carol hikes above Lac Cornu, a day hike from Chamonix, France.

Above: Carol gazes at Lac Cornu, near Chamonix, France.

Left: Hikers above Chamonix. [Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2006 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

Below right: Carol reflects in a tarn (mountain pond) across from Mont Blanc.

Aiguille du Midi

Above: Dome du Gouter (at center; Dôme du Goûter 14,121 feet / 4304 meters) is a shoulder of massive Mont Blanc (in clounds on the left; 15,782 feet), the source of massive glaciers seen from Aiguille du Midi lift station, above Chamonix, France. [Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2006 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

Above: From the lift station at the top of Aiguille du Midi, you get fantastic views of the Mont Blanc Massif (15,782 feet or 4810 metres; or Monte Bianco in Italian) the highest mountain in Western Europe. Note the tiny climbers on the rock on the left. Chamonix, France.

Left: These warmly dressed people enjoy the view from the lift station at the top of Aiguille du Midi.

Below: Climbers descend an icy ridge, with Dent du Geant (or Dente del Gigante in Italian) (4,013 meters elevation) rising in the background on the right. Chamonix, France, is an important world center for mountaineering.


From Aiguille du Midi, I photographed this panorama of Aiguille Verte, Les Droites, and Les Courtes (panorama stitched from 3 images). Gondolas carry people to this spectacular viewpoint on Aiguille du Midi at 12,600 feet. Chamonix is an important world center for mountaineering.


Left: From the top of Aiguille du Midi at 12,600 feet, climbers descend snow and ice, with Dent du Geant (or Dente del Gigante in Italian) (4,013 meters) rising in the background. Chamonix, France, is an important world center for mountaineering.






Below: Climbers explore rocks and needles atop Aiguille du Midi at 12,600 feet.


Left: Climbers ascend steep rocks on Aiguille du Midi at 12,600 feet.

Below: Climbers (lower right) explore a wonderland of rock spires and needles on Aiguille du Midi.


Left: Tourists watch climbers progress up the side of Aiguille du Midi.







Below: Climbers (on the right) ascend rock pinnacles on Aiguille du Midi.

Left: The breathtaking Aiguille du Midi cable car system takes just two gondola hops to climb from Chamonix (3300 feet elevation) to Aiguille du Midi (12,600 feet). Dome du Gouter (Dôme du Goûter; at center; 14,121 feet / 4304 meters elevation) is a shoulder of massive Mont Blanc (out of the image to the left; 15,782 feet).

Below: Dome du Gouter (Dôme du Goûter 14,121 feet / 4304 meters) is a shoulder of massive Mont Blanc (out of the image to the left; 15,782 feet). The fun Aiguille du Midi cable car system takes just two gondola hops to climb from Chamonix (3300 feet elevation) to Aiguille du Midi (12,600 feet).


Left: The amazing Aiguille du Midi cable car system takes just two gondola hops to climb from Chamonix (3300 feet elevation) to Aiguille du Midi (12,600 feet).

Below: Aiguille du Midi (12,600 feet) seen from Chamonix (3,300 feet elevation), France. You can commute from France to Italy by taking a gondola over this mountain or driving a highway tunnel that cuts straight underneath. [Published in Wilderness Travel 1990 Catalog.]


Below: Alpine ridges rise to about 13,000 feet from Chamonix Valley, France. [Published in Wilderness Travel 1989 Catalog.]

The Valais Canton of Switzerland

Glacier du Trient, Champex

  Valais means "valley" in French, and Wallis in German.
Left: Sheep pass Carol on the trail to Fenêtre d'Arpette pass, in view of Glacier du Trient, Switzerland.

Below: A large pine tree makes a window Carol on the trail to Fenêtre d'Arpette pass, in view of Glacier du Trient, Switzerland.


Left: Sheep graze in a high pasture at Glacier du Trient, Switzerland.








Below: Resting at Glacier du Trient, Switzerland.

Left: A sheep herder's shelter near Glacier du Trient, Switzerland. We hiked 11 miles (4600 feet up and 4200 feet down) from Trient, over Fenêtre d'Arpette pass which was frosted with snow, and down to beautiful Lac Champex, Switzerland. (More photos available upon request, such as sheep, Trient Glacier, and the snowy pass.)

Below right: Fine dining at Hotel Bellevue in Lac Champex after our hardest trekking day over Fenêtre d'Arpette pass.

Arolla Valley, Val d'Hérens, in the Valais Canton:

Above: Striking yellow algae in a tarn reflecting Les Dents des Veisivi (left) and Les Aiguilles de la Tsa (right), above the Arolla Valley, part of the Val d'Hérens. On this day we hiked about 8 miles (2900 feet up, 3300 feet down) from Arolla to La Gouille, then we bused to our hotel in Les Haudères. (Panorama stitched from 2 images.) [ Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2006-2008 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog. ]

Left: Les Aiguilles de la Tsa, seen from the village of Arolla at the head of the Arolla Valley, in the Valais (Wallis) Canton of Switzerland.

Below: Mont Collon seen seen from the village of Arolla at the head of the Arolla Valley, in the Valais (or Wallis) Canton, on the Haute Route (High Route), Switzerland.

Left: Mont Collon and fireweed, seen from the village of Arolla at the head of the Arolla Valley. [ Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2006-2008 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

Below: Mont Collon seen through grass with grain, seen from the village of Arolla at the head of the Arolla Valley.

Left: Alp Pra Gra herding sheds in the the Arolla Valley. (Image available with or without the yellow trail sign.)







Below: Carol crosses a stream in the Arolla Valley.

Left: Dents des Veisivi rise high above Arolla Valley, part of Val D'Herens, Switzerland

Below: A rock cairn balances precariously, high in the Arolla Valley, part of the Val d'Hérens. [Another version of this cairn image was published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2007 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

Left: Reflection of Les Aiguilles de la Tsa in a pond, above the Arolla Valley, part of the Val d'Hérens, Switzerland.

Below: Reflection of Les Dents des Veisivi (left) and Les Aiguilles de la Tsa (right) in a pond, above Arolla Valley, part of the Val d'Hérens, Switzerland.


Below left: A glacier above the village of Arolla at the head of the Arolla Valley, in the Valais (or Wallis) Canton, on the Haute Route (High Route), Switzerland.

Above: Carol wanders the gravel road to Alp Pra Gra in the Arolla Valley, with a glacier in the background.

Left: Carol hikes in the Arolla Valley, towards one of the many helpful yellow route signs, found everywhere in Switzerland.

Above: Tom wanders the winding gravel road to Alp Pra Gra.

Above: Hiking in the alpine meadow of Alp Pra Gra, I could see Mont Collon (left) and herding sheds (right) above the Arolla Valley. (panorama stitched from five images)

Above: Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges (a hut where trekkers can eat meals and stay overnight) and Mont Collon (on the right), in the beautiful Arolla Valley, a side valley of Val D'Herens. (panorama stitched from two images)

Left: Slate roofed building above the village of Villa, in Val d'Hérens, Switzerland.

Below: This slate roofed building is above the village of Villa, in Val d'Hérens, Switzerland. [ Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2008 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]


Above: Glacier clad mountains and trekkers reflect in a pond above Val d'Hérens, on the trail to Col du Torrent. Dent Blanche (14,291 feet) is the peak on the left. (On smaller monitors, scroll right to see entire panorama; stitched from five images)


Above: The glacier clad Pennine Alps rise above Val d'Hérens, seen from the Col du Torrent (2919 meters / 9574 feet elevation) (panorama stitched from two images). On the right is the Arolla Valley. We ascended 5300 vertical feet from Villa to reach Col du Torrent, then we descended 2400 feet to Lake Moiry, where we caught the last bus of the day to St. Luc. (On smaller monitors, scroll right to see entire panorama; stitched from two images)

Val de Moiry (Moiry Valley), in the Valais Canton of Switzerland:

On the Haute Route, we descend from Col du Torrent into the Val de Moiry, and see Garde de Bordon peak (3310 meters, in the center), Lac des Autannes (2686 meters) in the foreground, plus a sliver of blue-green Lake Moiry, in the Valais Canton of Switzerland.

Above: Dent Blanche (14,291 feet). Slate-roofed summer herders house, in Val de Moiry.

Below: A trekker hikes in the Moiry Valley beneath Dent Blanche (upper right; 14,291 feet) in the Pennine Alps, in the Valais Canton of Switzerland.


Above: Dent Blanche (the "White Tooth", 14,291 feet) rises majestically above turquoise Lake Moiry and magenta fireweed. [ Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2006 & 2008 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

Below right: Hiking beneath Dent Blanche (14,291 feet), along the reservoir of Lake Moiry.

Meidpass, in the Valais Canton:

Above: Meidpass is a boundary between French and German cultural areas in the Valais of Switzerland. We walked eastwards from the French village of St. Luc, rode the Tignousa funicular up, then walked up an additional 2500 feet to Meidpass, then descended 3400 feet to the German village of Gruben, for a total walk of about 9 miles. (In Gruben the next day, snow in the passes motivated us to take public transportation to Zermatt instead of hiking over.)

Above right: Relaxing in the  lounge of Hotel Bella Tolla, in Saint Luc, in the Valais Canton of Switzerland.

Zermatt & the Matterhorn, in the Valais Canton of Switzerland:

Left: The majestic Matterhorn (14,980 feet) catches the first rays of sunrise, as seen from Zermatt (5,300 feet elevation). Zermatt has barred automobile traffic to help preserve the village atmosphere. [Published in Wilderness Travel 1992 Catalog.]

Below right: Monte Rosa (15,207 feet; top center), highest peak in Switzerland. Gorner Glacier on left, Theodul Glacier in foreground. [Published in Wilderness Travel 1990 Catalog.]

Recommended Hikes in Zermatt:

• Recommended Alps hiking guidebook: 100 Hikes in the Alps, 2nd Edition, published by The Mountaineers, 1992.
• Gornergrat (spectacular cog train terminus located at 10,134 feet / 3130m elevation):  The Gornergrat is the first point on a ridge that runs out to Hohtälligrat (3286m) & Stockhorn (3407m, amidst a sea of ice) all linked by cable-car from Gornergrat.
• Ride the train up, sitting on the right-hand side for magical Matterhorn vistas, then hike up or down part or all of the way:
• You can take the cog rail to the Rotenboden stop, then hike east to Gornergrat 1000feet / 300m up in 1 hour, in 2.1 miles / 3.5 kilometers. 
  
• A short walk on foot will reveal a sunrise reflection of the Matterhorn in Riffelsee & other tarns (ponds), and you can hike back an interesting route via Gagihaupt peak (2568m).
  
• Hiking one way from Gornergrat down to Zermatt is 7.5 miles, down 5060 feet/1535meters, down in about 4 hours.
• Overnight option: Riffelberg Hotel (a cog train stop on the Gornergrat route) sits on spectacular exposed platform above valley. Phone 027/966 65 00, fax 966 65 05; b; to mid-Oct. Dorm beds 75 Swiss Francs per person with half board (dinner & breakfast in 2005).
• The Gornergrat cog wheel train ride takes 47 minutes from Zermatt station. 25% discount for holders of the Swiss Pass. Take the special dawn train for great a sunrise lighting up the Matterhorn. Leaving Zermatt, the earliest departures are 07:10, 08:00, 08:24… and the last departure is 19:12 (as of September 2005).
  
• See hike #33 in 100 Hikes in the Alps, 2nd Edition, published by The Mountaineers, 1992.
• Stellisee & Fluhalp: Hike 5 miles/8k, 1700feet/500meters gain; 90 minutes up, 40 down; via Sunnegga Express (7 minutes, an underground funicular train near east side of Visp River halfway between cemetery & Gornergrat cog rail). Or lift to Blauherd for 80m ascent to Hotel Fluhalp. Go east, below cliffs separating Sunnegga from Blauherd. Superb classic Matterhorn view & reflection. Hotel Fluhalp serves higher climbing huts. (I haven't been there yet.)
• Höhbalmen: mountain shoulder with great views, 3300 feet gain.  (I haven't been there yet.)

Switzerland Map:

The following Switzerland map shows our 20 hikes (pink) in one month, August 29- Sept 28, 2005, starting at the Zurich Airport, including the following areas: Berner Oberland, Loetschental, Chamonix, the Haute Route to Zermatt, and the Engadine Valley:

Click here for a slide show of 153 images from our Haute Route trek, from Chamonix (Mont Blanc) to Zermatt (Matterhorn) in 2005.

The Alps Page 2:  The Haute Route from Chamonix (Mont Blanc) to Zermatt (Matterhorn)
Index to the above page: France: Chamonix , ibex , Aiguille du Midi , hikes.  Italy: Courmayeur hikes.  Switzerland: map , The Valais ( Arolla , Moiry , Meidpass ,  Zermatt & Matterhorn hikes , Loetschental ).

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The Alps 1 ~ 2 ~ 3 ~ 4
More Alps Pages: 1. Berner Oberland, Switzerland ( Swiss Travel Tips , Alps Weather & Hiking Season ) ~ 3. Engadine, Switzerland ~ 4. Swiss Trivia Page

Copyright 2005 & 1981 by Tom Dempsey. Photographs may not be copied without permission.  Custom Print Prices.

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