Photoseek

The Alps 1 ~ 2 ~ 3 ~ 4:
1. Berner Oberland & Loetschental, Switzerland
Index to this page: Swiss Travel Tipsmap , Weather & Hiking Season , Berner Oberland ( Schilthorn , Lauterbrunnen , Grindelwald , Recommended Hikes ) , Loetschental

More Alps Pages: 2. Haute Route: from Chamonix/Mont Blanc to Zermatt/Matterhorn ~ 3. Engadine, Switzerland ~ 4. Swiss Trivia Page
Photographs Copyright 1981 & 2005 by Tom Dempsey.
Page last updated April 22, 2008.
Buy any image ~ Send comments to: Tom@photoseek.com


Click here for a slide show of 77 images from Berner Oberland & Loetschental, Switzerland. Below I further describe my favorite photographs:

Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau seen from Männlichen and Kleine Scheidegg

05ALP_0191-195pan-Eiger-to-Lauterbrunnen
Above: From Männlichen Peak, a short walk from a lift station, you get a stunning view from the Eiger (left) to Lauterbrunnen Valley (right). The distance from the top of the Eiger to the bottom of the valley is an impressive two vertical miles (3000 meters). The Berner Oberland has some of the most outstanding easily-accessible mountain vistas in the world. (panorama stitched from five images).

81ALP-04-15-Eiger.jpg
Above: SWITZERLAND: The peaks of Eiger (the Ogre, 13,026 feet), Mönch (the Monk), and Jungfrau (the Virgin, 13,600 feet). The Grindelwald Valley drops to the left, and the Lauterbrunnen Valley to the right. This is one of my most popular images. [Published on the cover of Ryder Walker Alpine Adventures 2005 Catalog ; in September/October 2004 Sierra Magazine (Sierra Club Outings, double page opening spread) ; and in Wilderness Travel 2000 & 1993 Catalog of Adventures.] 

05ALP_0056-58pan-Eiger+Monch+Jungfrau-reflection.jpg
Right: Monch & Jungfrau (Monk & Virgin) reflected in a pond at Kleine Scheidegg train station, with Eiger on the far left, in the Berner Oberland. (panorama stitched from three images)


In 2001, UNESCO listed Jungfrau-Aletsch-Bietschhorn as a World Heritage Area, with the following description: "This is the most glaciated part of the Alps, containing Europe's largest glacier and a range of classic glacial features such as U-shaped valleys, cirques, horn peaks and moraines. It provides an outstanding geological record of the uplift and compression that formed the High Alps. The diversity of flora and wildlife is represented in a range of Alpine and sub-Alpine habitats and plant colonization in the wake of retreating glaciers provides an outstanding example of plant succession. The impressive vista of the North Wall of the High Alps, centred on the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau peaks, has played an important role in European art and literature."

Lauterbrunnen Valley see from Männlichen, Switzerland

Left: Lauterbrunnen Valley seen from Männlichen [Published in Wilderness Travel 1988 & 1990 Catalog.]


Below right: Carol views the Eiger and Jungfrau.
05ALP_0065-Eiger+hiker.jpg

Below right: Jungfrau (13,653 ft) in the Swiss Alps. [Published in Wilderness Travel 1991 & 1995 Catalog.]
81ALP-04-22-Jungfrau.jpg

Berner Oberland Hiking Recommendations

  • How to get to the Berner Oberland, Switzerland (see map): From Zurich's downtown train station, ride 4 hours to Interlaken. From Interlaken, board a train to scenic Grindelwald Valley or spectacular Lauterbrunnen Valley.
  • Recommended resources:
  • Tom's recommended hikes:
    • Take the cable car from Wengen to Mannlichen, then hike the short round trip on a paved path up to Mannlichen Gipfel. My best selling image (81ALP-04-15-Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau) was photographed from Mannlichen Gipfel. The best views may be before 1:30PM to avoid afternoon cloud buildup. Then walk a couple of leisurely hours on the path to Kleine Scheidegg train station, with incredible world class views in front of you at every turn! How to get there: A special cog train runs from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen to Kleine Scheidegg to Grindelwald and back.
    • Lauterbrunnen Valley:
      • Wander around Lauterbrunnen town and valley for amazing views, including 1000-foot-high Staubbach Falls.
      • Hike from Murren (or Gimmelwald) up towards Birg and the Schilthorn as we did, and take the cable car back down for a very scenic day (or lift up and walk down). Or, walk Mürren to Griesalp one way 10 miles, 3000-4000 feet gain, then take the Kiental bus out. Or if you have more energy, stay overnight in Grisalp and continue walking from Griesalp to Kandersteg.
      • On a rainy day, visit "Trummelbach Falls inside the mountain" (a fee is charged for entry), while you wait for the mountains to clear. I haven't been there yet, but pictures of this underground slot canyon look impressive.
    • Based in Grindelwald, hike the Faulhorn Trail from Schynige Platte to First. Walk about 6.5 hours, 9 miles, ~2700 feet elevation gain, but only on a clear day so you can see the incredible mountain views. (You can also reverse direction for less uphill, 2300 feet total, but you must arrive at Schynige Platte by 17:00 or 18:00 to catch the train.) Take Wilderswil cog rail 1 hour to Schynige Platte (2068m). Hike by fantastic rock shapes in deep valley. Hike east side of Bachalpsee. 15 minute ascent of Faulhorn as a side trip. At First (2168 meters elevation), lift down to Grindelwald; or from Mittelläger take ~hourly Post bus. Around First, early morning sun with haze obscures mountain details, which favors reaching First at the end of your hike in the afternoon. “One of finest hikes in Switzerland”. “Atop Faulhorn is the atmospheric Berghaus (033/853 27 13, fax 853 10 25; Fr.34); stunning sunset & sunrise views one of the high points of walking Switzerland.”- switzerland.isyours.com  (Weather prevented us from hiking this, but we will return for another try.) See hike #39 in the book, 100 Hikes in the Alps by The Mountaineers, 1992-2002.
    • Hikes near Lötschental (or Loetschental), located in the next valley south of the Berner Oberland:
      • If you like a scenic mountain valley that is not so well known by international tourists, visit Loetschental, located in the Valais Canton. We stayed in attractive Blatten, where we admired the restored wood chalets and enjoyed a 3-mile walk one way up the valley to Kuhmad Chapel (built 1758), past historic wood hayloft buildings. We caught the bus back at Fafleralp.
      • For the best views of the valley and the sharp ridge of the Bietschorn, from Fafleralp, hike to Krindellücke, 5 miles round trip, 2.5 hours, 1542 feet gain. (See Hike #30 in 100 Hikes in the Alps.)
    • Hikes near Kandersteg (which is reached by train or road from Brig to the south or Spiez to the north):
      • Oeschinensee is a very popular alpine lake walled with high cliffs; see hike #36 in the book, 100 Hikes in the Alps. Start hiking in Kandersteg, 6 miles round trip (4 hours), 1400 feet gain (or only 30 minutes round trip hiking from top of chairlift). Late afternoon photo light is best for the famous “calendar shot”; try for a windless day for best lake reflections. (I haven't hiked here yet.) From the lake, optionally walk further, such as 1 or 2 nights one way to Lauterbrunnen, staying in mountain lodging.
      • Near Kandersteg, take the cable car from Fiesch to Eggishorn (2893 meters elevation at top of lift), to see a spectacular view of the Grosser Aletsch Glacier (Großer Aletschgletscher), which flows from Jungfrau. From this great viewpoint at Eggishorn, if no ice or snow affects your safety, you can start a hike to Riederalp (9 miles one way, with 700 feet gain), optionally via Donnerstafel, Bettmersee, and Blausee, and crossing over the ridgeline for the best long-distance views. Then walk towards Rieder Furka and the cable car at Riederalp. (Option: After admiring the Eggishorn view, you can take the cable car back to the middle terminal to shorten the hike and avoid slippery snow if present.) After finishing the walk at Riederalp,take the cable car down to Morel, where you can take the train back to Fiesch or down the valley to Brig. (Hike #34 in 100 Hikes in the Alps.)

Hiking scenes from Mürren to Wasenegg to Birg on the Schilthorn

05ALP_0309-311pan-view-from-Wasenegg
Above: View from Wasenegg ridge down to Gimmela on the lower left and Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau above. (panorama stitched from three images)

The Eiger (the Ogre, 13,026 feet) seen from Gimmela, in the Alps of Switzerland.
Left: The Eiger (the Ogre, 13,026 feet) seen from Gimmela.

    Below right: Two hikers on Wasenegg Ridge.  [ Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2007-2008 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

05ALP_0303-Wasenegg-hikers.jpg

05ALP_0314-Wasenegg-view.jpg
Above: Hiking Wasenegg Ridge. Left to right are Eiger (the Ogre, 13,026 feet), Mönch (the Monk), and Jungfrau (the Virgin, 13,600 feet), Switzerland.
Below: Carol hikes Wasenegg Ridge, in view of Eiger (the Ogre, 13,026 feet), Mönch (the Monk), and Jungfrau (the Virgin, 13,600 feet).
05ALP_0239-Wasenegg-hiker+Eiger+Monch+Jungfrau.jpg

05ALP_0245-Wasenegg-hikers+Eiger.jpg
Above: Hikers climb Wasenegg ridge with the Eiger in the background.

05ALP_0235-237pan-cows+Sefinental+Jungfrau.jpg
Above: Cows in Sefinental looking across to Jungfrau (13,600 feet), in the Berner Oberland. (Panorama stitched from three images). [This image was published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2007-2008 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

05ALP_0325-Grauseeli-icy-reflection.jpg
Above: Icy reflection in Grauseeli at Birg. [ Published in Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2006 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

05ALP_0319-Grauseeli-hiker-reflection
Above: A hiker reflects in Grauseeli, below the lift at Birg, the midway station on the Schilthorn. In the background are Eiger and Mőnch.

Gspaltenhorn reflects in Grauseeli on the Schilthorn, Berner Oberland, Switzerland
Above: The Gspaltenhorn (3437m, tallest peak on right) reflects in Grauseeli on the Schilthorn, in the Berner Oberland. (panorama stitched from two images)

Expansive Lauterbrunnen Valley & Gimmelwald

The village of Gimmelwald nestles on the side of spectacular Lauterbrunnen Valley. (Panorama stitched from 4 images.) [Published on cover of the Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2007 "Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

Lauterbrunnen

05ALP_0153-155pan-Lauterbrunnental
Above: Lauterbrunnen Valley and Staubbach Falls (1,000 foot drop), highest waterfall in Switzerland. (panorama stitched from three images)

Lauterbrunnen town, Valley, and Falls. Switzerland.Left: Lauterbrunnen Valley. Trümmelbach Falls. Switzerland. [Published in Wilderness Travel 1989 Catalog.

Below right: Staubbach Falls, lit at night, descends 1000 feet to the village of Lauterbrunnen, in the Lauterbrunnen Valley. Seen from our balcony in the Staubbach Hotel.
05ALP_0103-Staubbach-Falls-lit-at-night.jpg

Lauterbrunnen Valley (2612 feet), Switzerland.
Left: Lauterbrunnen Valley (2612 feet), Switzerland.

Below right: Water trough at Chuebodmi in the Alps of Switzerland. The mountains in the background are Monch (the Monk) and Jungfrau (the Virgin, 13,600 feet).

05ALP_0142-Water-trough+Monch+Jungfrau.jpg

05ALP_0127-Insects-on-purple-thistle.jpg
Left: A moth and a red spotted insect feed on the nector of Knapweed (Centaurea).

Below right: Scabiosa flower.
05ALPC_024-Scabiosa-flower.jpg

Grindelwald Valley

Wetterhorn, or Weather Peak (12,143 feet), in SwitzerlandLeft: Wetterhorn, or "Weather Peak (12,143 feet), in the Grindelwald Valley, on the spectacular hike between Kleine Scheidegg and Mannlichen.

Below right: Wetterhorn seen from Kleine Scheidegg train station.
Wetterhorn, or Weather Peak (12,143 feet), seen from Kleine Scheidegg in Switzerland

Wetterhorn, or Weather Peak (12,143 feet), seen from Kleine ScheideggLeft: Carol pets a grazing cow at Kleine Scheidegg, with Wetterhorn in the background.

Below right: Ceremonial cow bell, about 10 inches in diameter (on display in a hotel in Zuoz, Engadine).
05ALPC_539-Ceremonial-cow-bell.jpg

Shreckhorn, seen from First, above Grindelwald Valley, Switzerland


Left: The Shreckhorn, seen from First, above Grindelwald Valley




Upper Grindelwald Glacier + Tom Dempsey

Left: Self portrait at Upper Grindelwald Glacier. [Published in Wilderness Travel 1989 Catalog.]

    Below right: Wetterhorn (or "Weather Peak"; 12,143 feet) seen from Grindelwald Valley (3,500 feet), Switzerland. Alpine pastures for summer grazing are called "alps," the namesake for the Alps mountain range.
Wetterhorn (or Weather Peak; 12,143 feet) seen from Grindelwald Valley (3500 feet), Switzerland.

Lötschental (or Loetschental), in the Valais Canton

05ALP_0418-Blatten-Loetschental
Left: Blatten, Loetschental.

Below right: Kuhmad Chapel dates from 1758, in Loetschental.
05ALP_0429-Kuhmad-Chapel-Loetschental

05ALPC_127-Two-color-goat-Loetschental.jpgLeft: Two-color goat hybrid in Lötschental. (Another photo of this goat is also available with snow-dusted mountains in the background.)

Historic haylofts in Loetschental, in the Alps of Switzerland.
Loetschental, Switzerland


05ALPC_635-Zurich-train-station.jpg
Right: Zurich's downtown train station (shown here) is only 4 hours from Interlaken, which is the gateway to the Berner Oberland. This station has very a convenient grocery and other stores underneath.

Swiss Travel Tips:

  • Transportation:
    • I recommend buying a Swiss Saver Pass in your home country before your trip, which gives free travel on most rail lines & Post Buses, with discounts on most lifts, for two people traveling together in Switzerland. Buy a pass for a fixed period of time, or a Flexipass for use on a specified number of days.
    • For one-way hikes: You can post your bags ahead to most train & Post stations in Switzerland for only $12 ($10 if you have a Swiss Saver Pass). You can also arrange for hotels to send your bags ahead as you hike one way.
    • Renting a car would only be economical for at least 3 or more people travelling together. Public transportation is widespread and can reliably take you almost everywhere.
  • Money: If you are from the United States and concerned about dollar exchange rates, as of 2005-2007 the Swiss Franc used in Switzerland is a much better value than the Euro (used in France, Italy, Austria, and other countries). Switzerland need not cost any more than resort areas of the USA.
  • Food and drink: I recommend bringing a thermos bottle to fill at your hotel in the morning for hot drinks to carry with you, which along with bringing a sack lunch from the Coop or Migros grocery store, saves a lot of money.
  • Bring hiking poles to assist ascents and protect your joints on descents. Hiking stamina is about 20% more efficient when using poles, which Carol and I can both affirm. You will also blend right in, because most Europeans also use hiking poles.
  • Time change: +9 hours from Pacific Standard Time (Seattle and the west coast USA) to CEST/Central European time (GMT+1). Allow a full day after you arrive to recover from this severe jet lag, plus 2 or 3 more days to recover your disrupted sleep schedule.
  • Study and bring these excellent reference books:
    • Alps hiking guidebook: 100 Hikes in the Alps, 2nd Edition, published by The Mountaineers 1992.
    • Tour guidebook: Rick Steves' Switzerland gives specific itineraries covering the most important sights & hikes in a wonderfully a concise book. I highly recommend Rick Steves' books for any country in Europe, especially if you have limited time or budget. Each book contains everything you need to know to plan your own trip.

Weather & Hiking Season in the Alps (Switzerland, France, Austria and Italy):

  • July 1 through August 15 is high tourist season (after which local kids go back to school and parents don't have as much time to visit the tourist areas, which are then less crowded).
  • July to early August has the best flowers (although we saw nice flowers in September, albeit in lesser profusion).
  • Late August through September is a great time to go for good weather and also avoiding crowds, and there are still some flowers left to see, plus the yellow larch and other nice fall colors begin in middle to late September. You can stay in valley hotels all year, but many of the mountain huts start closing in early September. Fortunately the hiking season continues through October in the Dolomites, Italy, which are consistently clearer, warmer and drier than the Alps of Switzerland, France & Austria, which are further north.
  • Swiss hiking season ends in about late September or early October due to snow in the mountains and the closure of many visitor facilities. When winter snowpack builds up a few months later, the Alps throng with skiers, creating bigger winter crowds than summer in ski areas such as Zermatt.
  • A north wind generally means good weather in the Alps.
  • Weather varies by region:
    • The Valais, Zermatt & the Matterhorn, Switzerland = Sunny & dry. Highest altitude area in Switzerland.
    • Bernese Oberland & the Eiger, Switzerland = gets much more rain than Valais, so the grass and vegetation is lush and green. Very spectacular - you must see it to believe it.
    • Chamonix, France = climate is somewhere between Geneva & Zermatt, one of the drier alps areas. September-early October is best hiking weather.
    • Dolomites, Italy = September through October are consistently clearer, warmer, drier than the Alps of Switzerland, France & Austria, which are further north. South & southeast Dolomites are foggier than elsewhere in Dolomites. The Dolomites have many great hut walking options, which I haven't done yet but want to soon, such as:
      • Rifugio Lagazuoi
      • Drei Zinnen (in German), or Tre Cime di Lavaredo (in Italian), or "Three Pinnacles" (in English)
Switzerland Map:
The following Switzerland map shows our 20 hikes in one month, August 29- Sept 28, 2005, starting at the Zurich Airport, including Berner Oberland, Loetschental, Chamonix, the Haute Route to Zermatt, and the Engadine Valley:

05ALP-Swiss-Map.jpg

Alps Index:  1 ~ 2 ~ 3 ~ 4
Page 1: Berner Oberland, Switzerland , Swiss Travel Tips , map ,
Alps Weather & Hiking Season
Page 2: Haute Route: from Chamonix/Mont Blanc to Zermatt/Matterhorn:  France:
Chamonix , Aiguille du Midi , Hikes.   Italy: Courmayeur.   Switzerland: The Valais ( Arolla , Moiry , MeidpassZermatt & the Matterhorn , Loetschental ).
Page 3: Engadine, Switzerland ( Morteratsch , Scuol , Guarda , St. Moritz , Bregaglia Valley & Soglio , Trekking Advice )
Page 4: Swiss Trivia
Copyright 2005 & 1981 by Tom Dempsey. Photographs may not be copied without permission.  Custom Print Prices.