
The
Alps 1 ~ 2
~ 3 ~
4:
1. Berner Oberland & Loetschental, Switzerland
Index to this page:
Swiss Travel Tips ,
map ,
Weather
& Hiking Season ,
Berner Oberland
( Schilthorn , Lauterbrunnen
, Grindelwald , Recommended Hikes ) ,
Loetschental
More Alps
Pages: 2. Haute Route: from Chamonix/Mont Blanc
to
Zermatt/Matterhorn ~ 3. Engadine, Switzerland
~ 4. Swiss Trivia Page
Photographs Copyright 1981 &
2005 by
Tom Dempsey. Page
last updated April 22, 2008.
Buy
any image ~
Send comments to: Tom@photoseek.com
Click
here for a slide show of 77 images from Berner Oberland &
Loetschental,
Switzerland. Below I further describe my favorite photographs:
Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau
seen from Männlichen and Kleine Scheidegg

Above: From Männlichen Peak, a
short walk from a lift station, you get a stunning view from the Eiger (left)
to Lauterbrunnen Valley (right). The distance from the top of the Eiger to
the bottom of the valley is an impressive two vertical miles (3000
meters). The Berner Oberland has some of the most outstanding
easily-accessible mountain vistas in the world. (panorama
stitched from five images).

Above: SWITZERLAND:
The peaks of Eiger (the Ogre, 13,026 feet), Mönch (the Monk), and Jungfrau
(the Virgin, 13,600 feet). The Grindelwald
Valley drops to the left, and
the Lauterbrunnen Valley to the right. This is
one of my most popular images. [Published
on the cover of Ryder Walker
Alpine Adventures 2005 Catalog ; in September/October 2004 Sierra
Magazine (Sierra Club Outings, double page opening spread) ; and in Wilderness
Travel 2000 & 1993 Catalog of Adventures.]
Right: Monch & Jungfrau (Monk & Virgin) reflected in
a pond at
Kleine
Scheidegg train station, with Eiger on the far left, in the Berner Oberland.
(panorama stitched from three images)
In 2001, UNESCO listed
Jungfrau-Aletsch-Bietschhorn as a World
Heritage Area,
with the following description: "This is the most glaciated part of the
Alps, containing Europe's largest
glacier and
a range of classic glacial features such as U-shaped valleys, cirques,
horn
peaks and moraines. It provides an outstanding geological record of the
uplift
and compression that formed the High Alps.
The
diversity of flora and wildlife is represented in a range of Alpine and
sub-Alpine habitats and plant colonization in the wake of retreating
glaciers
provides an outstanding example of plant succession. The impressive
vista of
the North Wall of the High Alps, centred on the Eiger, Mönch and
Jungfrau peaks, has played an important role in
European
art and literature."

Left: Lauterbrunnen
Valley
seen from Männlichen [Published
in Wilderness Travel 1988
& 1990
Catalog.]
Below right: Carol views
the Eiger and Jungfrau.

Below right:
Jungfrau
(13,653 ft)
in the Swiss Alps. [Published in Wilderness
Travel 1991 & 1995 Catalog.]
Berner Oberland Hiking
Recommendations
- How to get to the Berner Oberland, Switzerland (see map): From Zurich's downtown train station, ride 4 hours to Interlaken. From Interlaken, board a train to scenic Grindelwald Valley or spectacular Lauterbrunnen Valley.
- Recommended resources:
- Tom's recommended hikes:
- Take the cable car from Wengen to Mannlichen, then hike the short round trip on a paved path up to Mannlichen
Gipfel. My best selling image
(81ALP-04-15-Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau) was photographed from Mannlichen
Gipfel. The best views may be before 1:30PM to avoid afternoon cloud buildup. Then walk a couple of leisurely hours on the path to Kleine Scheidegg
train station, with incredible
world class views in front of you at every turn! How to get there: A special cog train runs from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen to Kleine Scheidegg to Grindelwald and back.
- Lauterbrunnen Valley:
- Wander around Lauterbrunnen town and valley for amazing views, including 1000-foot-high Staubbach Falls.
- Hike from Murren (or Gimmelwald) up towards Birg
and the Schilthorn as we did, and take the cable car back down for a very scenic day (or lift up and walk down). Or, walk Mürren to
Griesalp
one way 10 miles,
3000-4000 feet gain, then take the Kiental bus out. Or if you have more
energy, stay overnight in Grisalp and continue walking from Griesalp
to
Kandersteg.
- On a rainy day, visit "Trummelbach
Falls inside the mountain" (a fee is charged for entry), while you wait for the mountains to clear. I haven't been
there yet, but pictures of this underground slot canyon look impressive.
- Based in Grindelwald, hike the Faulhorn Trail from Schynige Platte to First. Walk about 6.5
hours, 9 miles, ~2700 feet elevation gain, but only on a clear day so
you can see the incredible mountain views. (You can also reverse
direction for less uphill, 2300 feet total, but you must arrive at
Schynige Platte by 17:00 or 18:00 to catch the train.) Take Wilderswil
cog rail 1 hour to
Schynige Platte (2068m). Hike by fantastic rock shapes in deep valley.
Hike east side of Bachalpsee. 15 minute ascent of Faulhorn as a side
trip. At First
(2168 meters elevation), lift down to Grindelwald; or from
Mittelläger
take ~hourly
Post bus. Around First, early morning sun with haze obscures mountain
details, which favors reaching First at the end of your hike in the
afternoon. “One of finest hikes in Switzerland”. “Atop Faulhorn is the
atmospheric Berghaus (033/853 27 13, fax 853 10 25; Fr.34); stunning
sunset & sunrise views one of the high points of walking
Switzerland.”- switzerland.isyours.com (Weather prevented
us from
hiking this, but we will return for another try.) See hike #39 in the book, 100 Hikes in the Alps by The Mountaineers, 1992-2002.
- Hikes near Lötschental (or Loetschental), located in the next valley south of the Berner Oberland:
- If you like a scenic mountain valley that is not so well known by international tourists, visit Loetschental, located in the Valais Canton. We stayed in
attractive Blatten, where we admired the restored wood chalets and
enjoyed a 3-mile walk one way up the valley to Kuhmad Chapel (built
1758), past historic wood hayloft buildings. We caught the bus back at
Fafleralp.
- For the best views of the valley and the sharp ridge of the Bietschorn, from Fafleralp, hike to Krindellücke, 5 miles round trip, 2.5 hours, 1542 feet gain. (See Hike #30 in 100
Hikes in the Alps.)
- Hikes near Kandersteg (which is reached by train or road from Brig to the south or Spiez to the north):
- Oeschinensee is a very popular alpine lake walled with high cliffs; see hike #36 in the book, 100
Hikes in the Alps.
Start hiking in Kandersteg, 6 miles round
trip (4 hours), 1400 feet gain (or only 30 minutes round trip hiking
from top of chairlift). Late afternoon photo light is best for
the famous “calendar shot”; try for a windless day for best lake
reflections. (I haven't hiked here yet.) From the lake, optionally walk further, such
as 1 or 2 nights one way to Lauterbrunnen, staying in mountain lodging.
- Near Kandersteg, take the cable car from Fiesch to Eggishorn (2893 meters elevation at top of lift), to see a spectacular view of the Grosser Aletsch Glacier
(Großer Aletschgletscher), which flows from Jungfrau. From this
great viewpoint at Eggishorn, if no ice or snow affects your safety,
you can start a hike to Riederalp (9 miles one way,
with 700 feet gain), optionally via Donnerstafel, Bettmersee, and
Blausee, and crossing over the ridgeline for the best long-distance
views. Then walk towards Rieder Furka and the cable car at Riederalp.
(Option: After admiring the Eggishorn view, you can take the cable car
back to the middle terminal to shorten the hike and avoid slippery snow
if present.) After finishing the walk at Riederalp,take the cable car down to Morel, where you can take the train back to Fiesch or down the valley to Brig. (Hike #34 in 100
Hikes in the Alps.)
Hiking scenes from Mürren to
Wasenegg to Birg
on the Schilthorn

Above: View from Wasenegg ridge down
to Gimmela on the lower left and Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau above. (panorama
stitched from three images)

Left: The
Eiger (the Ogre, 13,026 feet) seen from Gimmela.
Below right: Two hikers on Wasenegg
Ridge. [ Published in Ryder-Walker
Alpine Adventures 2007-2008
"Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]


Above: Hiking
Wasenegg Ridge. Left to right are Eiger (the Ogre, 13,026
feet),
Mönch (the Monk), and Jungfrau
(the Virgin,
13,600 feet), Switzerland.
Below: Carol hikes Wasenegg
Ridge, in view of Eiger (the Ogre, 13,026
feet),
Mönch (the Monk), and Jungfrau
(the Virgin,
13,600 feet).


Above: Hikers climb Wasenegg
ridge with the Eiger in the background.

Above: Cows in Sefinental looking across to Jungfrau
(13,600 feet), in the Berner Oberland. (Panorama
stitched from three images). [This image was published in Ryder-Walker
Alpine Adventures 2007-2008
"Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

Above: Icy reflection in Grauseeli at
Birg. [ Published in Ryder-Walker
Alpine Adventures 2006
"Inn to Inn Alpine Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]

Above: A hiker reflects in
Grauseeli, below
the lift at Birg, the midway station on the Schilthorn. In the
background are Eiger and Mőnch.

Above: The Gspaltenhorn (3437m, tallest peak on right)
reflects in
Grauseeli on the
Schilthorn, in the Berner Oberland. (panorama
stitched from two images)

The village of Gimmelwald nestles on the side of spectacular
Lauterbrunnen Valley. (Panorama stitched from 4 images.) [Published on
cover of the Ryder-Walker Alpine Adventures 2007 "Inn to Inn Alpine
Hiking Adventures" Catalog.]
Lauterbrunnen

Above: Lauterbrunnen Valley
and Staubbach
Falls (1,000 foot drop), highest waterfall in Switzerland.
(panorama stitched from three images)
Left: Lauterbrunnen
Valley. Trümmelbach
Falls. Switzerland.
[Published
in Wilderness Travel 1989
Catalog.]
Below right: Staubbach
Falls, lit at night, descends 1000 feet to the village of
Lauterbrunnen, in the Lauterbrunnen Valley.
Seen from our balcony in the Staubbach Hotel.


Left: Lauterbrunnen
Valley
(2612 feet), Switzerland.
Below right: Water trough at Chuebodmi in the Alps of Switzerland.
The mountains
in the
background are Monch (the Monk) and Jungfrau
(the Virgin, 13,600 feet).

Left: A moth and a red spotted insect feed on
the nector of Knapweed (Centaurea).
Below right: Scabiosa
flower.

Left:
Wetterhorn, or "Weather
Peak
(12,143 feet), in the Grindelwald Valley, on the spectacular hike between Kleine Scheidegg and Mannlichen.
Below right: Wetterhorn
seen from Kleine Scheidegg train station.

Left: Carol
pets a grazing cow at Kleine Scheidegg, with Wetterhorn
in the background.
Below
right: Ceremonial cow bell, about 10 inches
in diameter (on display in a hotel in Zuoz,
Engadine).


Left: The Shreckhorn, seen from First, above Grindelwald
Valley

Left: Self portrait at Upper Grindelwald Glacier. [Published in Wilderness Travel 1989 Catalog.]
Below right: Wetterhorn
(or "Weather
Peak"; 12,143 feet) seen from Grindelwald
Valley (3,500 feet), Switzerland.
Alpine pastures for summer grazing are called "alps," the namesake
for the Alps mountain range.

Lötschental
(or Loetschental),
in the Valais
Canton

Left:
Blatten,
Loetschental.
Below right: Kuhmad
Chapel dates from 1758, in Loetschental.

Left: Two-color goat
hybrid in Lötschental. (Another photo of this goat is also available with snow-dusted
mountains in the background.)
Historic haylofts in
Loetschental, in the Alps of Switzerland.


Right: Zurich's downtown train station (shown here) is
only 4 hours from Interlaken, which is the gateway to the Berner Oberland. This station has very a convenient
grocery and other stores underneath.
Swiss
Travel Tips:
- Transportation:
- I recommend buying a Swiss
Saver Pass
in your home country before your trip, which gives free travel on
most rail lines & Post Buses, with discounts on most lifts, for
two
people
traveling together in Switzerland. Buy a pass for a fixed
period of time, or a Flexipass for use on a specified
number of days.
- For one-way hikes: You can post your bags ahead
to most train & Post stations in Switzerland for only $12 ($10 if
you have a Swiss Saver
Pass). You can also arrange for hotels to send your bags ahead as you
hike one way.
- Renting a car would only be economical for at least 3 or
more people travelling together. Public transportation is widespread
and can reliably take you almost everywhere.
- Money: If you are from the United States and concerned about dollar exchange rates, as of 2005-2007 the Swiss Franc used in Switzerland is a much better value than the Euro (used in France, Italy, Austria, and other countries). Switzerland need not cost any more than resort areas of the USA.
- Food and drink: I recommend bringing a thermos bottle to fill at your
hotel
in the morning for
hot drinks to carry with you, which along with bringing a sack lunch
from the Coop or Migros grocery store, saves a lot of money.
- Bring hiking poles to assist ascents and protect your
joints on
descents. Hiking stamina is about 20% more efficient when using poles,
which Carol and I can both affirm. You will also blend right in, because most Europeans
also use hiking poles.
- Time change: +9 hours from Pacific Standard Time (Seattle
and the west coast USA) to CEST/Central European time (GMT+1). Allow a
full day
after you arrive to recover from this severe jet lag, plus 2 or
3 more days to recover your disrupted sleep schedule.
- Study and bring these excellent reference books:
- Alps hiking
guidebook: 100
Hikes in the Alps,
2nd Edition, published by The Mountaineers 1992.
- Tour guidebook:
Rick Steves' Switzerland gives
specific itineraries covering the most important sights & hikes in
a wonderfully a concise book. I highly recommend Rick Steves' books for
any country in Europe, especially if you have limited time or budget.
Each book contains everything you need to know to plan your own trip.
Weather & Hiking
Season in the Alps (Switzerland, France, Austria and
Italy):
- July 1 through August 15 is high tourist season (after
which local kids go back to school and parents don't have as much time
to visit the tourist areas, which are then less crowded).
- July to early August has the best flowers (although we
saw nice flowers in September, albeit in lesser profusion).
- Late August through September
is a great time to go for
good weather and also avoiding crowds, and there are still some flowers
left to see, plus the yellow larch and other nice fall colors begin in
middle to late September. You can stay in valley hotels all year, but
many of the mountain huts start closing in early September. Fortunately
the hiking season continues through
October in the Dolomites, Italy, which are consistently clearer,
warmer and drier than the Alps of Switzerland, France & Austria,
which are further north.
- Swiss hiking season ends in about late September or early October
due to snow in the mountains and the closure of many visitor
facilities. When winter snowpack builds up a few months later, the Alps throng with skiers, creating bigger winter crowds than summer in ski
areas such as Zermatt.
- A north wind generally means good weather in the Alps.
- Weather varies by region:
- The Valais, Zermatt & the Matterhorn, Switzerland
= Sunny & dry. Highest altitude area in Switzerland.
- Bernese Oberland & the Eiger, Switzerland = gets
much more rain than Valais, so the grass and vegetation is lush and
green. Very spectacular - you must see it to believe it.
- Chamonix, France = climate is somewhere between Geneva
& Zermatt, one of the drier alps areas. September-early October is
best hiking weather.
- Dolomites, Italy = September through October are
consistently clearer, warmer, drier than the Alps of Switzerland,
France & Austria, which are further north. South & southeast
Dolomites are foggier than elsewhere in Dolomites. The
Dolomites have many great hut walking options, which I haven't done yet
but want to soon, such as:
- Rifugio Lagazuoi
- Drei Zinnen (in German), or Tre
Cime di Lavaredo
(in Italian), or "Three Pinnacles" (in English)
Switzerland Map:
The following Switzerland map shows our 20 hikes in one month, August
29- Sept 28, 2005, starting at the Zurich Airport, including
Berner Oberland, Loetschental,
Chamonix, the Haute Route to Zermatt, and the
Engadine Valley:
Alps Index: 1 ~ 2 ~ 3 ~ 4
Page 1: Berner
Oberland, Switzerland , Swiss
Travel Tips , map , Alps
Weather
& Hiking Season
Page 2:
Haute Route: from Chamonix/Mont Blanc to Zermatt/Matterhorn:
France: Chamonix
, Aiguille du Midi , Hikes. Italy: Courmayeur.
Switzerland: The
Valais (
Arolla , Moiry
, Meidpass , Zermatt
& the Matterhorn , Loetschental
).
Page 3: Engadine,
Switzerland ( Morteratsch
, Scuol , Guarda
, St. Moritz , Bregaglia Valley & Soglio ,
Trekking Advice )
Page 4: Swiss Trivia
Copyright 2005 & 1981 by Tom
Dempsey.
Photographs may not be copied without permission. Custom Print Prices.