Below right: Spectacular peaks exceeding 10,000 feet rise on both sides of the road as we head towards Saskatchewan Crossing (5,000 feet). (Leg #3)

CANADA: Bicycling the Icefields Parkway, Jasper to Banff

Index to this Page: Summary , Photo Log , Athabasca Falls , Miette Hot Springs , Trip Planning Details , Campgrounds , Day Hikes & Sights

Alberta's wonderful Icefields Parkway makes one of the world's best multi-day bicycle rides. What could be better than bicycling on wide shoulders through 138 miles (230 kilometers) of World Heritage Site scenery protected in Banff and Jasper National Parks? The Icefields Parkway, or Alberta Provincial Highway 93, stretches 138 spectacular miles from Jasper to Lake Louise. While driving here is awesome, bicycling is sensationally closer to nature. Even better, I love to leave roads and hike the quiet, spectacular trails; but as a fun change of pace, we focused on bicycling this year.
     Our four bicyclists rode 187 miles in 5 riding days, from Jasper to Banff, with support from two vans driven by my parents. Our four riders included Carol (my wife), myself, and two women friends. Mom and Dad drove two Volkswagon Eurovan Campers as "sag wagons". We loved the support vehicles for lightening bicycle weight and shuttling back to campgrounds for hot showers. This trip nicely combined an athletic endeavor for younger folks (ages 45 to 66) with a crucial support role that my parents (in their 70's) could also enjoy.
     We finished our first day of biking in style, with a very relaxing soak in Miette Hot Springs, my world's favorite swimming pool! (We also soaked in Banff Hot Springs, which has a great view, but felt more crowded and disappointingly lukewarm in comparison.)
      By organizing the trip myself, we not only saved money compared to an organized tour, but had the flexibility to ride on rain-free days (for all except half a day of rain showers). I actually reversed our route at the last minute to avoid rain and bad weather forecast for the first 2 days in Banff (therefore making efficient use of a rainy day with a car shuttle required anyway). We rode bikes two days, rested on a rainy day, then rode three more days. Also, we switched the order of two trip legs, bypassing the snowy Sunwapta Pass (Leg 3) in favor of the non-rainy Bow Pass (Leg 4). This was a great decision, because we returned to Sunwapta Pass (Leg 3) on a beautiful sunny day, riding a glorious & speedy 2200 feet downhill over 43 miles (plus 1300 feet up), my favorite day! We averaged 38 miles per day, with the hardest day climbing 2400 feet over 35 miles. Our training paid off nicely, making the hardest day seem normal.Our total gain over 5 days was about 6800 feet, with 5600 feet total downhill. By the end, we were moderately tired, but felt proud of reaching our goal.
      For this ride, we dressed warmly in moisture-wicking polypropylene layers with waterproof breathable rainjackets. I highly recommend rain-proof booties (or cheap plastic bags between socks and shoes) in case of wind chill or rainy days. I highly recommend walkie-talkies (rated with at least 5+mile range) for communication between spread-out cyclists and support vehicles. These radios improved morale and prevented several potential logistics problems, such as when a car key was misplaced then replaced with the help of radio communication. (Cell phones may have no coverage in the middle 100 miles of the ride.)

Above: Bicycling in Banff National Park near Sunwapta Pass. (Leg #3)

Photo Log from Bicycling the Icefields Parkway:

Leg 1: We start our bicycle ride at Whistlers Campground, Jasper National Park, heading south 32 miles to Honeymoon Lake.

An ethereal bugle call floats magically through the crisp fall air, as aggressive elk bulls chase submissive cows through the Whistlers Campground in the September rutting season, Jasper. Although they may walk right past you, stand back, these are wild animals!

Leg 1: Confluence of the Whirlpool and Athabasca Rivers, Jasper National Park.

Leg 1: Our bikers at Athabasca Falls.

Leg 1: Athabasca Falls.

Leg 1: Athabasca River gorge below the falls.

Leg 1: After our first day of bicycling, we rewarded ourselves with a dip in wonderful Miette Hot Springs (external link), naturally warmed to a perfect 104 degrees F, with a stunning view of Ashlar Ridge. Miette Hot Springs is my world favorite swimming pool. To get there, drive 1 hour northeast of Jasper townsite.

Leg 3: Bicycling past Icefield Centre. Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada

Leg 3: Athabasca Glacier flows from the huge Columbia Icefield. Canadian Rocky Mountains, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada.

Columbia Icefields Center, Alberta, Canada
Leg 3: With the Athabasca Glacier behind us, on a glorious sunny day we depart Columbia Icefield Visitor Center near Sunwapta Pass (6676 feet), then bicycle south 43 miles to Waterfowl Lakes.

Left: Leg 3: Spectacular peaks exceeding 10,000 feet rise on both sides of the road as we head towards Saskatchewan Crossing (5,000 feet).

Below right: Leg 3: The very steep hill south of Sunwapta Pass makes for an exhilarating (or scary) descent. Be careful of cars and crosswinds on this steep, narrow section!

Left: Leg 3: Spectacular peaks exceeding 10,000 feet rise on both sides of the road as we head towards Saskatchewan Crossing (5,000 feet).

Below: Leg 3, near Saskatchewan Crossing (5,000 feet).

Biking Banff NP
Leg 3: 12,000-foot peaks with hanging glaciers.

Biking Icefields Parkway, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada
Above: Leg 4: A fresh dusting of snow on the Icefields Parkway.

Crowfoot Glacier, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada Left: Leg 4: Crowfoot Glacier.

Leg 4: A breaking storm.

Leg 4: Reflections of Banff National Park in a pond near Lake Louise. Carol's favorite day was the long, fun 2000-foot descent to Lake Louise.

Leg 5: A rainbow shines overhead as we depart the town of Lake Louise in a light rain shower.

An electric fence surrounds Lake Louise Campground to keep out bears.
My wife Carol fears bears, and felt reassured by the new electric fence built around Lake Louise Campground to keep out curious ursus.

Leg 5: We bicycled right by these feisty young Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep who were climbing a road cut. Bow Valley Parkway, Banff National Park.

Leg 5: Hoodoos (eroded pinnacles) on the Bow River, Banff.

Leg 5: We completed 187 miles bicycling from Jasper to Banff in 5 days (plus a rest day).

Planning Details for Bicycling Jasper to Banff

We bicycled 187 miles from Jasper to Banff, from campsite to campsite. Bicyclists commonly ride the Icefields Parkway in either direction. The southward road climbs 6800 feet total, with 5600 feet total downhill. Although the net uphill is 1200 feet, you avoid climbing the long, narrow-shouldered, steep hill northwards up to Sunwapta Pass. We rode the following five legs from North to South:

Leg 1:

Whistlers Campground

Jasper

Leg 2: 35 miles (2400 feet up, 200 down) Sunwapta Pass (6676 ft elev)
To: Columbia Icefield Campground (or adjacent Wilcox Creek Campground, DS, no showers; open through 9/22/03; 6600 feet elevation).
We added a rest/rain day after the first two days of riding.

Leg 3: 43 miles (1600 feet up, 2200 feet down)
To: Waterfowl Lakes Campground (no showers, open through 9/28/03). My favorite day, a speedy descent on a sunny day through gorgeous river and mountain scenery.

Leg 4: 39 miles (1100 feet up, 2000 feet down) Bow Pass, 6785 feet, is the highest elevation on the Icefields Parkway. The steepest ascent on Bow Pass climbs 800 feet in 3.5 miles, not too bad. A side trip to Peyto Lake viewpoint is highly recommended.
To: Lake Louise Campground (5100 ft, hot showers, DS) Carol's favorite day, a moderate climb followed by a fun, long 2000-foot descent to Lake Louise.

Leg 5: 38 miles (400 feet up, 900 feet down)
To: Banff: Tunnel Mountain Village I Campground (4700 feet elev, open year around)

If you reverse the above route and ride from Banff to Jasper, you climb less, with only 5600 feet total gain, and 6800 feet total down, finishing 1200 feet lower than you started. Reversing the above five-day route makes nice moderate rides between the same campgrounds. You could also shorten the trip to four days, by combining Legs 1 and 2 above into one day making 67 miles, climbing only 500 feet and descending an exhilarating 3700 feet.

Right: Tunnel Mountain Campground, in the town of Banff: We completed our bicycle ride just in time (September 14, 2003), because snow fell that night and the next few days!

Campgrounds:

Campsites are mostly first come first served in Banff and Jasper National Parks. Checkout time=11:00am. Each morning, our support vehicles drove ahead to secure our next campsite (no problem getting a site from 9:00am to noon in September).
The following campgrounds accept reservations at www.pccamping.ca (external link) at all hours; or phone 1-877-737-3783 from 7am-7pm:

in Banff NP, Alberta: Lake Louise Tent & Trailer; Banff Tunnel Mountain #1 and #2.
in Jasper NP, Alberta: Whistlers; Wapiti; Pocahontas (near Miette Hot Springs)
in Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia (one hour west of Jasper): Robson Meadows Campground

Hot Showers:

In Banff NP: Banff Tunnel Mountain Village (plus Banff Upper Hot Springs nearby), Two Jack Lakeside, Johnston Canyon, Lake Louise.
In Jasper NP: The Whistlers Campground (closes mid October), Wapiti Campground (closes in early September), and Miette Hot Springs (day use).
The campgrounds from Waterfowl Lakes through Honeymoon Lake have no hot showers. Alternatives: sponge baths, or drive to showers or hot springs

RV Dump Stations (DS): In Banff NP: Tunnel Mountain, Johnston Canyon, Lake Louise, & Waterfowl Lakes campgrounds. In Jasper NP: Wilcox Creek, Whistlers, Wapiti Campground.
Food: buy groceries in Banff, Castle Junction, Lake Louise (more expensive), Saskatchewan Crossing (small grocery & restaurant), or Jasper. Our bikers carried their snacks, water and lunch each day. Also, restaurants are available at Vermilion Crossing & Sunwapta Falls.
Official campground links outside of my website:

Banff NP campgrounds: www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/visit/visit9_e.asp
Jasper NP campgrounds (jumps to link outside my website): www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/jasper/visit/visit19_e.asp

Easy Hikes and Great Side Trips:

Miette Hot Springs: Soak in the hottest springs in the Rockies, with a stunning view of Ashlar Ridge. 1 hour drive from Jasper. 8:30 am - 10:30 pm summer hours. Open May 2-Oct 13, 2003. $6.25 adult, $5.25 Senior; $18.75 family.
Mount Edit Cavell, Jasper NP. Walk 2-5 miles, spectacular
Sunwapta & Athabasca Falls: Easy stroll.
Icefields Centre: SnoCoach ride ~$30 on Columbia Icefield.

Wilcox Pass: 5 miles round trip, 1082 feet gain (7,790 feet max elevation). Start at Wilcox Creek Campround, 1.2 miles east of Icefield Centre.
Parker Ridge (7200ft elev; marked trailhead, in Banff NP, 5 miles south of Icefields Centre): Walk 3 miles round trip, 910 ft gain, great view of Saskatchewan Glacier.
Nigel Pass hike.

Peyto Lake overlook: easy walk to overlook this spectacular, turquoise lake
Johnston Canyon (5400 ft elevation): 1 to 7 mile easy walk, 300-800 ft gain, through attractive gorge with waterfalls.
Lake O'Hara (6600 ft elevation), Yoho NP (a gorgeous area with many classic hikes): (no cycling is allowed on the bus road to Lake O'Hara.)

-- HIKE OPTION (easiest & cheapest): You can hike Cataract Brook to Lake O'Hara in 8 miles, 1350 ft gain, then take free bus ride out at 5:30 or 6:30pm, with no reservations required. (We did this in 2001, and liked it quite a bit. Happy to do it again.)
-- BUS OPTION: Taking the bus in to Lake O'Hara gives you access to several gorgeous day hikes of any length. For in-person 24-hour advance reservations: get in line at 7:15am the day before you wish to visit O’Hara (a line forms before office opens), at Yoho Visitor Centre (open 8 am-12 pm/1 pm-4 pm) in Field, B.C. $12/person bus fee. In-going bus: 8:30 a.m. 10:30 a.m, 3:30 p.m, 4:30 p.m., 5:30 p.m., 6:30 p.m. Day visitors out: 6:30 p.m. 7:30 p.m. For phone reservations: $12 nonrefundable advance reservation fee call 8am-12pm/1-4pm @ 250.343.6433; plus add $12/person bus fee. June 19 - October 6, 2003. (Bus fee only refunded 4 days in advance, before 4pm.)

Above: Peyto Lake, near Bow Pass, Banff National Park. (a short but steep side trip from Bicycling Leg #4)

CANADA: Bicycling the Icefields Parkway, Jasper to Banff

Index to this Page: Summary , Photo Log , Athabasca Falls , Miette Hot Springs , Trip Planning Details , Campgrounds , Day Hikes & Sights

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